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Any tips on installing on grooved metal walls
- Thread starter Stacey K
- Start date
weyandsign
New Member
Those boards on the wall is what you will screw your ACM panel to.
JBurton
Signtologist
Yeah, this would be very easy with some acm...
If someone twisted my arm, I'd definitely print it, then go with a matte or ultra matte laminate to keep the dents and glare to a minimum. Wrapping into each of those troughs is going to be a chore, but so will priming and stretching into them.
If someone twisted my arm, I'd definitely print it, then go with a matte or ultra matte laminate to keep the dents and glare to a minimum. Wrapping into each of those troughs is going to be a chore, but so will priming and stretching into them.
weyandsign
New Member
or if they want it cheaper, screw a banner to the wall.
Stacey K
I like making signs
So...I should put primer on before I apply the vinyl? He definitely does not want sign boards
JBurton
Signtologist
Do you have a clearer picture of the wall's shape? I was imagining old school corrugated tin (got that on the brain from a job we are working on currently), this is obviously not. If the dips aren't too deep, you may not need to. I think DL just did a roll up door that looks a lot like this paneling...
Modern Ink Signs
Premium Subscriber
Given your question your customer wants vinyl applied to the wall.
Corrugated metal wall folks…..
1. yes laminate. It will make the application a little easier.
2. use cast not calandered.
3. You will have to start with the “high” spot then feed it down into the channel then back up to the high, etc, etc.
4. Be sure to explain that it will NOT look like the proof you provided as you have to apply it across the corrugations.
5. Charge accordingly!!!
Corrugated metal wall folks…..
1. yes laminate. It will make the application a little easier.
2. use cast not calandered.
3. You will have to start with the “high” spot then feed it down into the channel then back up to the high, etc, etc.
4. Be sure to explain that it will NOT look like the proof you provided as you have to apply it across the corrugations.
5. Charge accordingly!!!
Stacey K
I like making signs
They might get hit with baseballs that's why we opted away from PVC and aluminum. He made an indoor batting field and has nets hanging up that will be in front of the walls. This is the best one I have...
Attachments
JBurton
Signtologist
Ah, I'd opt for lexan/polycarbonate, clear, with graphics on the back. They can drive homers at that until the... tigers come home and it shouldn't hurt in the least.
Otherwise yes, it looks like you'd want primer on those particularly steep troughs. Also, every seam in the metal should be cut in the vinyl, otherwise it will tent and buckle when summer hits.
Or, ya know, banners!
Otherwise yes, it looks like you'd want primer on those particularly steep troughs. Also, every seam in the metal should be cut in the vinyl, otherwise it will tent and buckle when summer hits.
Or, ya know, banners!
signbrad
New Member
Is painting not an option?
Working from a pounce pattern, this could be accomplished even by a novice at hand lettering. I use soft, brown fitches (sometimes called a "blitz fitch"). Touch-ups, as needed, would be easy, especially if the graphics are black instead of blue, which could fade with time.
I have also lettered many corrugated aluminum trailers by rolling Gripmask from a five-gallon bucket. Then, following a pounce pattern, knife-cut and peel the graphics. Spray with automotive paint (or brush with lettering enamels). Such graphics can last many years on trailers.
It seems that our technology sometimes holds us hostage. What used to be a relatively easy project has now become complicated. Not that hand-lettering on corrugation is ever really "easy," but it was commonplace.
Brad in Kansas City
Working from a pounce pattern, this could be accomplished even by a novice at hand lettering. I use soft, brown fitches (sometimes called a "blitz fitch"). Touch-ups, as needed, would be easy, especially if the graphics are black instead of blue, which could fade with time.
I have also lettered many corrugated aluminum trailers by rolling Gripmask from a five-gallon bucket. Then, following a pounce pattern, knife-cut and peel the graphics. Spray with automotive paint (or brush with lettering enamels). Such graphics can last many years on trailers.
It seems that our technology sometimes holds us hostage. What used to be a relatively easy project has now become complicated. Not that hand-lettering on corrugation is ever really "easy," but it was commonplace.
Brad in Kansas City
Geneva Olson
Expert Storyteller
McDonald Signs
McDonald Signs & Graphics
If you apply vinyl lettering on corrugated metal you need to take into account that going in and out of each valley on a long decal, you will lose some of the overall length of the original lettering
and it will be shorter in length once applied. Your design will look "squeezed". You may have to stretch your design to make up for it. We usually stick a piece of masking tape down in one valley from one rib to the next rib and
mark the center of each rib. Then remove the masking tape and stretch it out tight. The marks on the masking tape will be wider in length than from rib to rib on the metal. Take the measurement of how much wider it is and
multiply that by the amount of ribs the decal will cover. Or figure a percentage based on the measurement and add that percentage to the length of the decal.
and it will be shorter in length once applied. Your design will look "squeezed". You may have to stretch your design to make up for it. We usually stick a piece of masking tape down in one valley from one rib to the next rib and
mark the center of each rib. Then remove the masking tape and stretch it out tight. The marks on the masking tape will be wider in length than from rib to rib on the metal. Take the measurement of how much wider it is and
multiply that by the amount of ribs the decal will cover. Or figure a percentage based on the measurement and add that percentage to the length of the decal.
Stacey K
I like making signs
Got this job done Thursday and Friday. Used 180c/lam with primer. I did cut some of the edges of the raised areas.
It went OK but a major PITA and tedious. The worst part was I was using a lift and the circles were 47" so I used my Big Squeegee to get the center started then worked out. It was HOT and humid 10' in the air and I was soaked with sweat by the time I was done both days. My hair clip kept getting caught in the net that was hanging down. Every time I moved the lift I had to grab the net - miserable. I had to move around to catch the light to see if there were bubbles - and with the deep areas it was a lot of moving around.
I will not do this again. There are easier ways to make money. These kinds of jobs are crappy but tolerable - but when you add the working conditions into it - it's just not worth it.
4 circles were 10' up the wall. The logo/words I could use a step stool so not as bad.
It went OK but a major PITA and tedious. The worst part was I was using a lift and the circles were 47" so I used my Big Squeegee to get the center started then worked out. It was HOT and humid 10' in the air and I was soaked with sweat by the time I was done both days. My hair clip kept getting caught in the net that was hanging down. Every time I moved the lift I had to grab the net - miserable. I had to move around to catch the light to see if there were bubbles - and with the deep areas it was a lot of moving around.
I will not do this again. There are easier ways to make money. These kinds of jobs are crappy but tolerable - but when you add the working conditions into it - it's just not worth it.
4 circles were 10' up the wall. The logo/words I could use a step stool so not as bad.
Attachments
JBurton
Signtologist
Looks great! When you say you cut some edges, you cut the parts of vinyl overlapping the metal seams right? From the sound of things, it's not insulated, so it will be expanding and contracting with temp changes.
Stacey K
I like making signs
Thanks! yes - where the seams are and then there were a couple spots where I cut vertically because of the bubble situation. Using the Big S. was a bit difficult no matter how slow I went. They are all behind nets so even with contraction I don't think you will notice.
JBurton
Signtologist
When you've done everything right, people won't know you've done anything at all...
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
sounds miserable but you're a tough girl and got it done. good job.