Question Anybody have a list of parameters and what each does in service mode of the UCJV300?

[RonnyCrack]

I need to know what all machine parameters do - I know somebody has to have it, thought I know Mimaki doesn't really even give this list to their own certified techs.. that being said, if they have a function, somebody has to know it, and I'm hoping they reside here lol.

Specifically, I'm looking for a setting to keep the second set of UV lights OFF during printing. It seems like once the back set of lights turn on after the first 1-2inches, the clear varnish print gets over cured, and degrades from smooth to an orange-peely texture I'm sure every UCJV owner is familiar with...

Switching to STS inks has allowed me to turn my UV light adjustment way down to -35% and get a beautiful "Roland" or "Flatbed" like gloss embossing, but only for the first 1-2inches, until the second set of lights come on and degrade the print with over irradiation.

My jerryrig technique would be to cover the second pair of lights with black gorilla tape and hope for the best. But I'm all but sure there has to be a parameter that can be edited to achieve this without such techniques.

A friendly fellow on here informed me of a parameter to keep all pinch rollers down during pull-back printing, which has been a piece of priceless information allowing me to retract during print multiple times with perfect registration. Just imagining what other features Mimaki has hidden in their settings.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I think those settings are in the datastream generated by RasterLink. By 'set' do you mean a lamp unit, or a zone on the lamp units? Since there is control by zone on the LED assemblies. I have gone through and annotated thousands of parameters so I could disable ink chips and I do recall some LED stuff, but exactly what triggers what since it wasn't an area I was testing.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I think those settings are in the datastream generated by RasterLink. By 'set' do you mean a lamp unit, or a zone on the lamp units? Since there is control by zone on the LED assemblies. I have gone through and annotated thousands of parameters so I could disable ink chips and I do recall some LED stuff, but exactly what triggers what since it wasn't an area I was testing.

Zone on the lamp unit! At the beginning, only the first (toward the back of the machine) "zone" of the lamps turn on. After about an inch or two, the second (toward the front of the machine) "zone" turns on, and seems to be the cause of the overcuring/orange peel texture.

Do you remember what area the LED zone params may have been?

 

[Solventinkjet]

They don't even give that to the Mimaki employed techs. Last time I was at training, the Mimaki tech said he downloads the parameter file, then changes a setting, and then downloads the file again. Then he uses a program that shows what changed between the files and that's how he figures out what parameter does what.

Have you played around with the "UV AdjVal" in the Setup menu? That adjusts the UV light brightness. Might achieve what your trying to do without turning a light off.

 

[RonnyCrack]

They don't even give that to the Mimaki employed techs. Last time I was at training, the Mimaki tech said he downloads the parameter file, then changes a setting, and then downloads the file again. Then he uses a program that shows what changed between the files and that's how he figures out what parameter does what.

Have you played around with the "UV AdjVal" in the Setup menu? That adjusts the UV light brightness. Might achieve what your trying to do without turning a light off.

Yeah I've tried messing with UV Adjval unfortunately. Going down to -35% helps, but only for the first couple inches. Lowering to -50% helps a bit more later into the print, but putting it that low introduces it's own problems (slight bubbling toward the beginning of the gloss print before the second zone of lamps turns on).

Are you aware of how to download the parameter file/what program is used to compare? Is it proprietary/techs only?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I just use Notepad++

 

[Solventinkjet]

Yeah I've tried messing with UV Adjval unfortunately. Going down to -35% helps, but only for the first couple inches. Lowering to -50% helps a bit more later into the print, but putting it that low introduces it's own problems (slight bubbling toward the beginning of the gloss print before the second zone of lamps turns on).

Are you aware of how to download the parameter file/what program is used to compare? Is it proprietary/techs only?

You just need to get your hands on the Mimaki Firmware Update tool. I don't have it handy right now but I'm sure someone on here might be able to hook you up. Power up the machine while holding the up and down keys and it will enter the Up/Download mode and you can use the software to download the file.

Just note, be careful messing around with parameters. Make a backup of your current ones first so you can always revert back. Once people know how to mess with the parameters, they tend to go wild and I get a call asking how to go back lol.