Anyone printing with a mutoh 1324 and flexi. Either or

[altereddezignz]

Looking for help with a mutoh 1324. Looking for anyone printing with one of these.

 

[styleyouneed]

yes we just added the 1324/Q54 combo with flexi 3 weeks ago. It runs GREAT even at 720/720. We have printed banners, clear vinyl for back lit signs, paper back drops, step and repeats and more. It has made us about $3000 in 3 weeks. So it should pay for itself in about 8 months.

What is your problem with it?

 

[altereddezignz]

Banding and tiger strips in the colors if a rasterized vector and grainy looking if it's a vector. Even when printing oracal 3165g profile and q4 high speed 720x1440.
I attached the best 2 images I have at the moment of the green one showing the grainy and orange shows the banding. Green is a vector at 150dpi. The orange is a vector that has been rasterized in illustrator with 300dpi.

 

[letterman7]

Banding: PF feed isn't correct or you have clogged nozzles.

Grainy: Flexi settings, sometimes. What are you running in terms of print quality?

I have a 1204 running under Flexi.

 

[altereddezignz]

No clogged nozzles, the banding is gone now that i have saved the file as EPS and not AI. But now when i have a clipping mask or shadows in teh design and i save it as an EPS and i bring it into flexi i get this. Its a bunch of small boxes that i have to delete. I am guessing it is the clipping mask or something. File was rasterized at 300dpi then saved as an eps. Now opened in flexi and i get these.
This causes all kinds of problems when i need to make a contour cut around the object and also be able to size accurately b/c of the areas i have to delete. No i can delete them but the are is still larger than the print design.
I can get rid of all the extra stuff but it is an act of congress to be able to contour cut but it can be done with some work with deleting all the boxes that show up. If not masks are done then it is not an issue.

Unless someone can show me how to create a design with mask and shadows in illustrator and then be able to save it as a 300dpi raster in case it is for a wrap then open it in flexi and not have all the boxes.

You cannot save it as an eps without it being rasterized b/c it created white boxes where any of the shadows are.

 

[Solventinkjet]

Why are you rasterizing your files? You should be able to save as an EPS and just import directly into Flexi. Rasterizing vector files just lowers the quality and makes the file harder to process due to it's size. I am thinking that the boxes are from Flexi interpreting the rasterized files from AI differently.

 

[letterman7]

Ya know... I've never - and I mean never - used an .eps or AI file printed from Flexi. I have always, without hesitation, created a .jpg or .tif file to print from. I know I'm gonna catch all kinds of flack from that, but designed correctly in AI or Corel, using Pantone colors or even the base palette colors, I have never had an issue with sizes, gradients, whatever. I do have watch clipping on un-welded letters and items like you're seeing (little white dots), but other than that it's all good. You're mileage may vary with that method.

 

[altereddezignz]

The reason for the rastering is b/c apparently when clipping masks and shadows together and you try and open the file in flexi it gives white boxes with all the shadows and these white boxes cannot be deleted without deleting the shadow. I have tried it more than once to just save the file as an eps and open in flexi but have yet to have any luck with it.

I have never tried the jpeg or tiff file directly as i am still learning my printers colors b/c we are just now making any prints with it as of 4am this morning.

What about when doing a full size wrap? is the jpeg or tiff not in the same boat as the large files b/c of the large dpi.

What about when doing a contour cut from flexi? Does the jpeg not give just a large square contour cut around the image?

I know i am asking questions but i am really curious now.

 

[Solventinkjet]

The boxes you get around your effects, like shadows and outer glow etc, are due to the rendering intents in your RIP not agreeing. So most RIPs default to processing vector and bitmap images differently which means when you combine the two, you get conflicts. If you set the rendering intents to match for vector and bitmap in your RIP, it will fix the issue. Also, the same thing can occur if you are mixing RGB and CMYK images into one file and using transparencies.

 

[altereddezignz]

Designed in illustrator cs6 and using flexi 12? Not sure how to make the rendering match each other.
I was told this from flexi about the rastering on what i am designing in flexi is the reason i started it.

 

[letterman7]

I've done box trucks with .jpg files, you just have to make sure they are really large to begin with and very clean. Not the best or ideal way to do it, but it works for me. I don't use AI for my programming and graphics, I use Corel, and simply add in my contour cut when I design the file. Then I can simply drop the vinyl into my plotter, let it line up with the registration marks, and away it goes. I plot from Corel as well... Flexi for me is simply a RIP program.. and not a very good one at that.

 

[altereddezignz]

Think I have the banding and most of the printing issues figured out now. I can also do an actual clipping mask and not a transplant mask and it works a lot better in plexi. But I did prints with registration marks today trying to use the Q 54 and it's arms System but for some reason it will either give me a scan air or tell me that it's out of destination. Most of the time it fails trying to find the first registration. I am using the registration marks that look like the elves are going to eat the picture. The size is within the recommended requirementsof arms also so not sure what's going on here. The way I am loading it in the printer and Connor is if I can read it when it comes out of the printer that's the way I loaded in the plotter as I can read it.

 

[printndisplay]

Please advice

I am planning to start a new printing establishment for wall decors, canvas prints, stickers and decals,, quality of print matter to me especially for canvas and wall papers, is Mutoh VJ1324+ Mutoh Value cut a good option?

 

[altereddezignz]

One i completely stripped and spent about 3 weeks cleaning and calibrating and so on with issues from it setting so far ( knock on wood ) Its running great. Had an issue with the arms eye sensor at first b/c there was either something on it or it was not connected good. So now it is running and printing great. Still learning so far but so far so good.
This question might be better in the equipment or or in a new thread about purchasing new equipment for more interest.