Applying aluminum sign to side of large garbage type truck

[Stacey K]

I have a customer that is bought a new truck that has somewhat of a dumpster on the back. Not sure what you call it...a garbage truck maybe? Anyway, it has large ribs and it's black. He wants to use 2 sheets of 4x8 aluminum on each side. I will apply the vinyl, simple graphics and he will install. I have a couple questions...

1. .063 or .080? .080 does not come in black? In a small town area and not really anyone interested in painting projects like this. I could flood with vinyl but would rather not.
2. Pricing...I already applied the exact decals to one of his trucks so I know the exact amount of labor. I also know the exact price of vinyl. I'm a little stuck on marking up the aluminum...typically I would double it but since it's 4 sheets, would you give a quantity discount?

OR could I use a Maxmetal or Bebond 6mm? Both are available in black.

Thank you!

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Don't use acm. I'd bend a 2" leg on the front edge of the panel and lay that over a rib if they were vertical. That way the wind won't get behind it. Put something between the panel and steel bed to isolate them or the 2 metals against each other will rot out. Personally, I'd use 16gauge paint grip. It's stronger and you won't have galvanic corrosion.

 

[pjfmeister]

We have used Black ACM on haul-off trailers for a roofing company and the signs held up great. Would consider a qty discount if your customer is a regular customer...

 

[Ray Miller]

Over the years we've done them mostly on .080 aluminum. They would screw them fast and weld braces on to make they don't come loose. Also did smaller ones and those we used 3mm acm panels. Mostly pop riveted on. They have a tendency to come loose.

 

[rjssigns]

I have a customer that is bought a new truck that has somewhat of a dumpster on the back. Not sure what you call it...a garbage truck maybe? Anyway, it has large ribs and it's black. He wants to use 2 sheets of 4x8 aluminum on each side. I will apply the vinyl, simple graphics and he will install. I have a couple questions...

1. .063 or .080? .080 does not come in black? In a small town area and not really anyone interested in painting projects like this. I could flood with vinyl but would rather not.
2. Pricing...I already applied the exact decals to one of his trucks so I know the exact amount of labor. I also know the exact price of vinyl. I'm a little stuck on marking up the aluminum...typically I would double it but since it's 4 sheets, would you give a quantity discount?

OR could I use a Maxmetal or Bebond 6mm? Both are available in black.

Thank you!

since you're in Wisconsin try SI Metals they usually have powder coated stock car aluminum on the shelf.

Installation:
I installed ACM panels on a dump trailer but I spanned the ribs with angle iron, which gave me a perfectly flat mounting surface. To attach I put down a bead of Lexel then fastened with 3/16" stock car panel rivets.
Just remembered I also put ACM panels on a huge hydro-seed rig with Lexel and stock car rivets.

Overkill? Perhaps, but I don't need to "air freight" a panel off of a piece of construction equipment either.

 

[Billct2]

We use ACM and use some double side foam tape to hold in place while we screw down with heavy duty roofing screws, the ones that have rubber grommets

 

[2B]

since you're in Wisconsin try SI Metals they usually have powder coated stock car aluminum on the shelf.

Installation:
I installed ACM panels on a dump trailer but I spanned the ribs with angle iron, which gave me a perfectly flat mounting surface. To attach I put down a bead of Lexel then fastened with 3/16" stock car panel rivets.
Just remembered I also put ACM panels on a huge hydro-seed rig with Lexel and stock car rivets.

Overkill? Perhaps, but I don't need to "air freight" a panel off of a piece of construction equipment either.

We also use angle iron, made a full-frame to span the "ribs" and protect some.
then used VBH and construction-grade pop rivets

 

[rjssigns]

We also use angle iron, made a full-frame to span the "ribs" and protect some.
then used VBH and construction-grade pop rivets

I wanted to make a frame but the client wanted the sign tucked under the rail for protection. There's always next time.

 

[Z SIGNS]

It's a dumpster it's going to get bashed up no matter what ya use.
I'm not an engineer but I've been on sailboats.
Tell them installers to keep the wind off the sails/signs.

 

[Stacey K]

First he was installing, now I am LOL

I still don't know exactly what it looks like as he won't get it for 2 more weeks.

A couple of you are talking about angle iron and frames. Is this what you mean? Also, I don't have a rivet gun, I would prefer not to buy one if I can get away with these roofing screws as Bill said. When you say rivet or screw, you mean directly to the ribs right? Will the ribs be wide enough to butt the sheets together in the center - I will have to wait until he gets it to know for sure.

 

[truckgraphics]

.063 sheets in black, so .063 it is ! And/Or offer the .080 at a premium price. No discount on the heavy stuff as painting or wrapping is involved...If you use ACM, it will eventually tear, but .063 should hold up for a few years and .080 for a bit more.

ITW Buildex self-driving screws (though you will probably have to drill a small pilot hole)....Box says: part no. 1149057, 1/4"-14X1 HWH TEKS/3 Climaseal

(With silicone or liquid nails on the ribs.)

Drive them in with a good battery powered hammer drill an a 3/8" driver.

Collect money!

 

[Stacey K]

.080 Aluminum. I'd wrap it with 3M economy wrap to black it out, if we couldn't get it in black or find someone to paint it cheap, because we don't have a place to paint. (edit: Harbor Sales and probably your local supplier has .063 sheets in black, so .063 it is ! And/Or offer the .080 at a premium price. No discount as there is a lot of manual labor involved.)...If you use ACM, it will eventually tear, but .063 should hold up for a few years and .080 for a bit more.

ITW Buildex self-driving screws (though you will probably have to drill a small pilot hole)....Box says: part no. 1149057, 1/4"-14X1 HWH TEKS/3 Climaseal

Drive them in with a good battery powered hammer drill an a 3/8" driver.

Oh gosh, this is great! THANK YOU for taking the time to look at your box!

 

[Gino]

If the installation portion is dropped in your lap, just be sure you are taking every precaution you can and using the best of everything. If they let loose, it could be a disaster. That's something you don't wanna be connected to if it does. No court in the land will listen to..... It's supposed to hold or the directions said this or that. The responsibility ends with whomever does the work. You are a professional and are supposed to know these things to be in business. This is NOT a tongue lashing towards you, but what would take place if some car passing one of these trucks has a panel ram through their windshield while a gust if wind takes off with it.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

A hammer drill is for concrete. Don't use an impact driver on self driving screws either. Everyone does it but it is not the correct tool and its how fasteners get over/under torqued. Make sure the holes are sealed too, we are rebuilding a dump bed now that had a sign in the side, water got down in those ribs and rotted them out.
Edit to add: use urethane sealants, not silicone and definitely not liquid nails. Silicone should be locked up behind the counter at the hardware store

 

[netsol]

Don't use acm. I'd bend a 2" leg on the front edge of the panel and lay that over a rib if they were vertical. That way the wind won't get behind it. Put something between the panel and steel bed to isolate them or the 2 metals against each other will rot out. Personally, I'd use 16gauge paint grip. It's stronger and you won't have galvanic c

If the installation portion is dropped in your lap, just be sure you are taking every precaution you can and using the best of everything. If they let loose, it could be a disaster. That's something you don't wanna be connected to if it does. No court in the land will listen to..... It's supposed to hold or the directions said this or that. The responsibility ends with whomever does the work. You are a professional and are supposed to know these things to be in business. This is NOT a tongue lashing towards you, but what would take place if some car passing one of these trucks has a panel ram through their windshield while a gust if wind takes off with it.

Gino has a point. it's jobs like this that ruin your relationship with your insurance company

somethiing comes off the truck you will have a horror story and be looking for a new insurance company (finding a new one is easier if your history doesn't involve a major disaster

did you ever get a flat tire on an interstate? i had a flat with our largest vehicle about 5 years ago on the jersey turnpike
fascinating how even a very heavy vehicle is pulled to the left by trucks going by in the next lane

 

[Notarealsignguy]

First he was installing, now I am LOL

I still don't know exactly what it looks like as he won't get it for 2 more weeks.

A couple of you are talking about angle iron and frames. Is this what you mean? Also, I don't have a rivet gun, I would prefer not to buy one if I can get away with these roofing screws as Bill said. When you say rivet or screw, you mean directly to the ribs right? Will the ribs be wide enough to butt the sheets together in the center - I will have to wait until he gets it to know for sure.


View attachment 156731

Screws or 1/4" structural rivets like mono bolts. Harbor freight has a good 1/4" pneumatic rivet gun for under 100 bucks. We have a few of them, one is over 10 years old.

 

[truckgraphics]

A hammer drill is for concrete. Don't use an impact driver on self driving screws either. Everyone does it but it is not the correct tool and its how fasteners get over/under torqued. Make sure the holes are sealed too, we are rebuilding a dump bed now that had a sign in the side, water got down in those ribs and rotted them out.
Edit to add: use urethane sealants, not silicone and definitely not liquid nails. Silicone should be locked up behind the counter at the hardware store

Thank you for clarifying...Information gets passed down and one continues the process. I'll stand by those self-driving Tek screws though, but will install on the non-hammer setting.

 

[Stacey K]

Now that Gino has me scared LOL I will mention that my B/F is a welder by trade so I will run all this past him and he will be doing most of the work. He has made some trailers and piers from scratch for people outside of work so I think he should understand the importance of safety, like Gino is saying.

One thing my B/F doesn't quite understand is - I'm running a business - I'm not making a trailer for a friend. I've learned in the past, it's imperative that I have a detailed "sign makers plan" vs. "let's make a trailer for friend plan". Once I present some sketches and materials, he might have some additional ideas. If I let him run loose, the customer won't be able to afford it or I'll be out 3 days of labor LOL

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I checked out another truck here that also has a sign. They welded angle sort of like your picture but to the ribs behind the sign as a flange. Then they through bolted the sign to the angles but only on the front and back. Then used regular pop rivets down the center which all failed (heads popped off), then welded the sign and the welds cracked. Good thing they have it bolted.

 

[Stacey K]

I checked out another truck here that also has a sign. They welded angle sort of like your picture but to the ribs behind the sign as a flange. Then they through bolted the sign to the angles but only on the front and back. Then used regular pop rivets down the center which all failed (heads popped off), then welded the sign and the welds cracked. Good thing they have it bolted.

Ahhh...this is very good to know - it's starting to sound like a variety of attachments is necessary to make this bullet proof. Interesting the welds cracked...