Question Are sharp angles on perforation cuts possible???

[travazz]

Hello Folks,

Just wondering if it is possible to print and cut on a soljet pro4 xr 640 a simple 7" triangular decal?? I am having a hell of a time getting clean cuts. I have replaced the current blade with a new 60 degree blade, change the offset to .25 and still no luck. I'm running orajet 3164 without any laminate and my blade depth is set to 185 grams. Anyone got some pointers? Thanks for your time.

 

[eahicks]

Well of course that's possible. It's just a corner. Like the inside of a capital A. Or a 7. Seems you have a bad blade, cutting too deep, or your holder has some crud in it not allowing the blade to turn correctly at the corner.


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[boxerbay]

might be too much downforce pressure. reduce your pressure.

You can also set up your cut layer so it cuts past the corners. so your vector cut file corners look like X. So instead of tuning the sharp turn the blade cut past it - lifts then begins a new straight cut. but that corner is not super sharp. you should be able to cut it fine. i am guessing dull blade or too much pressure.

 

[oksigns]

Hello Folks,

Just wondering if it is possible to print and cut on a soljet pro4 xr 640 a simple 7" triangular decal?? I am having a hell of a time getting clean cuts. I have replaced the current blade with a new 60 degree blade, change the offset to .25 and still no luck. I'm running orajet 3164 without any laminate and my blade depth is set to 185 grams. Anyone got some pointers? Thanks for your time.

Hey I have your machine. Those are no problem. 185 grams with no lam tells me that your cut strip is worn out.

If you are going to do a lot of perf cuts, that strip will have to be replaced frequently as much as it pains me.

edit: you may want to check the blade length too as there may be some contact being made and make sure your heat is off when you cut.

 

[travazz]

ok, thanks a lot for the input guys!
I do a lot of perf cuts and have not replaced my cutting strip yet, I was thinking that may be a problem.

 

[Pippin Decals]

I dont think your supposed to be cutting into your strip in the first place are you ? I have never cut into mine at least...I would reduce or increase speed if needed and double check pressure or make sure blade is clean and spinning freely by putting a dab of oil on the inner part of your blade holder where the blade itself rotates inside.. just my 2 cents lol

 

[oksigns]

I dont think your supposed to be cutting into your strip in the first place are you ? I have never cut into mine at least...I would reduce or increase speed if needed and double check pressure or make sure blade is clean and spinning freely by putting a dab of oil on the inner part of your blade holder where the blade itself rotates inside.. just my 2 cents lol

Atleast on Rolands and you are doing perf cuts, you will be digging in to the cutting pad. There is no way around that. The that strip is a safe surface for the blade to ride on whether it is a contour or perf cut, but the whole point of the strip is to allow the blade some wiggle room when doing these operations. Thankfully, we can replace it when the time arises. You can get by for awhile, but we will suffer as the surface becomes imperfect thus making uneven cutting pressure caused by the variation of surface space for the blade to ride on.

For big jobs, I guage the strip's health with a test cut across the whole strip both length and width wise so I can view the variances and, with that, I can see how long in to the job I have before I have to replace everything. Sometimes just the blade if the strip's health is good, but sometimes I replace both as additional wear is introduced to the blade when the strip is damaged enough- that will contributed to pinching and creasing of your cuts in addition to a bad blade holder.

 

[travazz]

thanks a ton guys! esp the heat tip and the cutting strip info. There is no way I can run a few 1000 perf cut decal jobs and not cut into the cutting strip.. maybe if I'm just cutting vinyl i would be ok..

 

[Behrmon]

I find the 60 carbide blades to work better for Perf cuts on the Rolands also although if you're not laming then maybe not.

 

[Roland Product Support]

Hey Travazz,

The poor PerfCutContour quality could be caused by a variety of factors, some of which are mentioned in this thread. However, there's no need for you to continue struggling with this issue. It's recommended that you contact Roland support and get help with this ASAP. We'll need you to complete our support submission form so we can create a support ticket for you. Go here to submit your info: Product Support Form | Roland

We look forward to helping you and take care,

Roland Technical Support
Roland DGA Corp.
rn

 

[travazz]

Hey guys,
Back again and really disappointed in my Roland xr 640. After tons of research and trying different methods, still a simple triangle is a nightmare to print and die cut for me. I have replaced the cutting strip and new blades.. both 45 degree and 60 degree blade with the appropriate offset.. slowed down the cut speed, changed cutting force.. Picture provided is with cutting at 180 grams down force on orcal 3164 media and blade 60 degree with offset .25. Cut speed is 7cm per sec.. Its crazy how one cuts fine and then the next messes up!?!? And Again.. I replaced the cutting strip.. What is the supposed Perf cutting down force that most of you guys use??

 

[oksigns]

okay okay okay.

roland brand carbide blades? is heat enabled during cuts?(shouldn't be). Are you laminating the prints?

180 grams of down force is still quite a bit for unlaminated(just saying as an observation- if lam'd then it seems like a little too much force is used for the material)

For comparison, on a similar orajet material, I would use a 60 degree roland carbide blade, .250 offset, 50g for contour and around 80 to 95 for my perf cut unlaminated.

I will admit I changed my up speed to 24mm/s to solve some issues of bunching on some materials.

 

[Quad State]

I know this is a super old post, but we're having similar issues with a newer GR-640. I would suggest an software update first. It also looks like your perf and contour cuts are on top of each other possibly. I would make sure that you have the perf cut set "outside" of your contour cut. You may be cutting twice over the same path making it bunch up on you.

 

[MikePro]

HUGE fan of a filet'd corner, like a .04" radius.
still looks like a point at first-glance, but its less-pickable as a finished product and it allows the blade to start making the turn before it has a chance to catch & tear on those sharp angles.

 

[Goatshaver]

Hey guys,
Back again and really disappointed in my Roland xr 640. After tons of research and trying different methods, still a simple triangle is a nightmare to print and die cut for me. I have replaced the cutting strip and new blades.. both 45 degree and 60 degree blade with the appropriate offset.. slowed down the cut speed, changed cutting force.. Picture provided is with cutting at 180 grams down force on orcal 3164 media and blade 60 degree with offset .25. Cut speed is 7cm per sec.. Its crazy how one cuts fine and then the next messes up!?!? And Again.. I replaced the cutting strip.. What is the supposed Perf cutting down force that most of you guys use??
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What is your blade depth? Should be no more than about half a credit card thickness. Also fold piece of scrap vinyl in half (liner inside) and make a hand cut with the blade. it should cut very easily and you should just barely cut through to the piece of vinyl folded under.

This is the most overlooked thing IMO. I did the same thing when I was learning how to use my machine. Once you get the depth the rest should fall in place.