Question ARLON SLX®/SLX+ CAST WRAP VINYL WITH FLITE TECHNOLOGY/ Vinyl Failing

[FT Dude]

Hello all,

I don't wrap often, but have a question. We just completed a wrap job with Arlon's SLX cast wrap vinyl (light contact). Typically we would use Arlon's 3220 laminate, but were recommended to try IOraguard's 290 due to product availability. The vinyl was starting to peel from the backing right after being cut and weeded. Needless to say the vinyl started to fail on the vehicle after 2 weeks from installation. I live in Wisconsin where we experience cold temperatures. Could this be the reason for this specific vinyl to fail? Or could the laminate have an adverse affect that would create the vinyl to curl? Any advice, recommendations, and trouble shooting would be much appreciated.

Thanks you for your time in advance!

 

[Inks]

Did you apply the vinyl with a heat gun? The adhesive on that vinyl needs to be activated with heat.
Also recommended that you use the squeegee and heat gun over the full surface again after all the panels are installed.

 

[FT Dude]

Did you apply the vinyl with a heat gun? the adhesive on that vinyl needs to be activated with heat.

Hello, We did post heat with heat guns. It is a possibility that we didn't use a sufficient amount of heat coverage.

 

[Inks]

A failure is usually the result of not enough heat or the vehicle is not prepped appropriately.

 

[truckgraphics]

We've never used heat to activate the SLX, but the SLX+ is a little tackier so we use that now. I could see that cold weather wouldn't be kind to SLX. We stopped using it for print and cut, not because of a failure, but it seemed there was that potential given that it's not too aggressively sticky. The Arlon 4600 GLX high performance calendared is stickier and seems to be fine for smooth applications...Can't speak to the overlaminate. Usually we use the Arlon 3170, which is the thinner cast material. Occasionally we've used the Fellers Lamex cast house brand, but really have seen no difference.

 

[FT Dude]

We've never used heat to activate the SLX, but the SLX+ is a little tackier so we use that now. I could see that cold weather wouldn't be kind to SLX. We stopped using it for print and cut, not because of a failure, but it seemed there was that potential given that it's not too aggressively sticky. The Arlon 4600 GLX high performance calendared is stickier and seems to be fine for smooth applications...Can't speak to the overlaminate. Usually we use the Arlon 3170, which is the thinner cast material. Occasionally we've used the Fellers Lamex cast house brand, but really have seen no difference.

Thanks, I may just have to try the SLX+. The unfortunate part is we just bought the SLX (Light Contact) in bulk. We like the repositionability, but like you said maybe its a little too light, especially with our current temperatures.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

The SLX+ definitely seems to stick better. I did a cut logo in SLX and I could not get it to stick, it was around 60 degrees out which is not very cold.

 

[Inks]

The SLX+ definitely seems to stick better. I did a cut logo in SLX and I could not get it to stick, it was around 60 degrees out which is not very cold./

just curious, it did not stick after heating with a heat gun?

 

[LarryB]

We use the SLX + 3220 lam and never had any issues. We always post heat. I also like to keep the vehicle in my shop overnight after it has been wrapped so it can acclimate to the environment. Also gives us a chance to correct any liftups overnight. With extreme weather I think this would help.

 

[Inks]

We use the SLX + 3220 lam and never had any issues. We always post heat. I also like to keep the vehicle in my shop overnight after it has been wrapped so it can acclimate to the environment. Also gives us a chance to correct any liftups overnight. With extreme weather I think this would help.

This is my understanding and what I have witnessed as well. This product has low initial tack for repositioning purposes and the adhesive is activated with heat and should be as good as any other cast product.

 

[FT Dude]

We use the SLX + 3220 lam and never had any issues. We always post heat. I also like to keep the vehicle in my shop overnight after it has been wrapped so it can acclimate to the environment. Also gives us a chance to correct any liftups overnight. With extreme weather I think this would help.

Ah. Thank you for the recommendations. I'll definitely keep the vehicle in overnight the next go. Especially since we'll have to do this last wrap over again.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

just curious, it did not stick after heating with a heat gun?

I didn't even try, it was like I was sticking the thing on a puddle of oil. I don't mind post heating but I'm not gonna sit there with a heat gun in one hand while I hold the decal with the other until it sticks. How long will it really last like on a vehicle like that? I never had any other vinyl be that difficult.

 

[Precision]

SLX is good for full and half wraps. Needs to be post heated well. Also anything 55 to 60 degrees you should heat the shop overnight or use a heat lamp to keep the surface less frigid.

I highly reccomend you don't use SLX for cut graphics or decals, unless applying as an overlay to another piece of vinyl. Never as a cut graphic or decal straight to the car surface. It will fail.

 

[FT Dude]

Yeah, the slideability is definitely not your friend when the temperature drops. I print and plot vinyl for an installer that used to work for me. He throws a fit every once in a while that the premask is sticking to the truck more than the vinyl. Inevitably I check the weather up there and its just below 50F, truck outside all day in the wind, gets pulled into the shop last minute, and he expects the truck surface to be as warm as the shop air temp...
Though I've never seen it drive away and fail later, it could definitely happen with the chilly weather you guys keep in WI.
As far as laminate on it, we only use arlon's 3270 or 3m's 8518 on vehicle wraps, not sure about oraguard. I believe the 3270 is a little cheaper than the 3220, but less conformable.

Thank you for the response. Greatly appreciated!

 

[FT Dude]

SLX is good for full and half wraps. Needs to be post heated well. Also anything 55 to 60 degrees you should heat the shop overnight or use a heat lamp to keep the surface less frigid.

I highly reccomend you don't use SLX for cut graphics or decals, unless applying as an overlay to another piece of vinyl. Never as a cut graphic or decal straight to the car surface. It will fail.

Thank you. I'll definitely keep this product as a half/full wrap project medium.

 

[Inks]

I didn't even try, it was like I was sticking the thing on a puddle of oil. I don't mind post heating but I'm not gonna sit there with a heat gun in one hand while I hold the decal with the other until it sticks. How long will it really last like on a vehicle like that? I never had any other vinyl be that difficult.

Cannot be installed without heat and when installed correctly it lasts as long as all the other cast vinyls.
Arlon was originally known for cast wrap that was too tacky, installers hated it and now they are on the other side of the spectrum. The challenge with the SLX is the initial tack still needs a little heat and then a post heat. Not ideal for outdoor wraps or vehicles that are not at room temperature.

This is probably why they added the SLX+ which addresses the concern that you mention and which is good information for someone trying to install SLX.

 

[Retro Graphics]

ARLON SLX/SLX+ Spec sheet,
minimum temp for application surfaces and ambient air temps.

SLX

https://s3.amazonaws.com/fellers/production/documents/arlon-slx-cast-wrap-pdb-current-2021-1332.pdf

SLX+

https://s3.amazonaws.com/fellers/production/documents/arlon-slx-pdb-current-2021-1573.pdf

 

[Retro Graphics]

SLX is good for full and half wraps. Needs to be post heated well. Also anything 55 to 60 degrees you should heat the shop overnight or use a heat lamp to keep the surface less frigid.

I highly reccomend you don't use SLX for cut graphics or decals, unless applying as an overlay to another piece of vinyl. Never as a cut graphic or decal straight to the car surface. It will fail.

I have used SLX for small and large cut decals with no problems, when the surface is properly prepped and at the correct temperature. I also clean everything off with RapidTac II before installing, sometimes i will clean with soap and water or vinegar then soap and water and a final wipe down with the RapidTac.

Smaller job:

https://www.facebook.com/retrographicsllc/photos/a.1943887505622422/4482214115123069

Larger decal job:

https://www.facebook.com/retrographicsllc/photos/a.1047151445296037/4041455592532259