Backlit washout issues

[CaBOoSE]

Hey everyone,

I am a newbie to this site and the print scene in general, and recently we have been running into the issue of our translucent prints being washed out when backlit.

We have started running a rich clear print behind, with a normal preset translucent laid on top, but we were assured when the printer was purchased that the latex would not need the double layer of vinyl for backlit applications..... Its no real huge deal, just I would like to save some time and material and not need to take the extra steps really... call it lazy, I call it casually efficient... LOL

I am using mainly avery products, MPI 2050 for translucent, 1005easy RS for opaque, and MPI 1060 for regular clear prints, and 2060 for the double layer print, since it is advised to not laminate calendared over cast. The settings for the printer in onyx are adjusted straight from the onyx website, just for heat purposes, and other than the wash out issue, are perfect for my needs. If any pros have any tips they are willing to share, lets face it, I'm all ears.....

-Andrew

 

[Fastsigns2041]

I use 2 methods. In onyx preflight, I bump up the saturation 2 clicks in the color correction tab. OR check the high ink option in the printer settings if you right click the file in the rip queue. and I go with 20 pass just to be sure it dries.

Both methods work for me depending on the type of print, say if its a solid color background or a photo. you'll have to experiment which might work best for your media. I use tru-stock translucent.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I use your tried-and-true method of mirror print on clear 2nd surface with regular print on trans first surface

 

[signswi]

I would clone the HP backlit profile and adjust the heat according to manufacturer. It uses High Ink if I recall.

 

[sfr table hockey]

I use your tried-and-true method of mirror print on clear 2nd surface with regular print on trans first surface

The good thing about this method is that what you see in the day on the front is a normal printed image (mostly correct color). Then at night your image looks better with the layer behind.

If you double print or add a heavier layer of ink (to your front image) your image changes in color due to the heavier ink layer. It may look better at night but worse in the day.

 

[J Hill Designs]

yep

 

[CaBOoSE]

The good thing about this method is that what you see in the day on the front is a normal printed image (mostly correct color). Then at night your image looks better with the layer behind.

If you double print or add a heavier layer of ink (to your front image) your image changes in color due to the heavier ink layer. It may look better at night but worse in the day.

Too true... tried the high ink settings alone, and it completely made Wendy look like she spent too much time in the sun, so we just ended up doubling up the layers, using the high ink limit on the lower image....

Now does it actually matter if you put a mirrored clear image on the 2nd surface, or would a 1st surface clear High ink pass with a normal limit white layer on top be sufficient as well... we do a lot of large faces, and would like to minimize our handling of the product as much as I can..... More flipping = more chance of damage

 

[J Hill Designs]

or would a 1st surface clear High ink pass with a normal limit white layer on top be sufficien

I just think registration would have to be more critical...because the two images are right on top of each other instead of 3/16" apart

 

[BBworks]

Printing translucent material or Duratrans material is pretty tough, we do alot of it. If the colour of a backlit is too washed out, it could be because you are using clear acrylic? We use white acrylic and apply graphics to the front. If the lighting is not equal across the face, we use defuser material on the back of the face.

 

[J Hill Designs]

nah white acrylic still either a) washes out at night if trans print isn't double-dense, or b) is too dark/rich/whatever in the daytime

 

[CaBOoSE]

Printing translucent material or Duratrans material is pretty tough, we do alot of it. If the colour of a backlit is too washed out, it could be because you are using clear acrylic? We use white acrylic and apply graphics to the front. If the lighting is not equal across the face, we use defuser material on the back of the face.

Our 2nd surface clear apps were washed out like an albino intil we decided to use the high ink limits on a 2nd layer of white... we had just tried using 2 clear prints on top of each other to fix it to no avail.... using the high ink limit on a mirrored translucent image seems to have heped a lot with that... that's why I waas wondering if I HAD to use the 2nd surface application on a first surface face,

But it does make sense now to do the clear on 2nd surface, just to ensure alignment doesn't mess up too badly, but as long as we go slow, alignment is't usually an issue, as long as we don't stretch it, the rolls roller does fine w dry laminating, but when it doesn't, the 600-S will

 

[sfr table hockey]

I have been wanting to try this but just have not have the time but....

If you were to print on clear film with reg. marks then remove the clear, let off gas, then mount your translucent media onto the clear and leave the reg. marks open. If you can lay the translucent on top ok without a problem, then put it back into the printer and use the reg. marks and re print the file onto the now top layer.

Should match up very close and saves lining up your prints on the lexan.

Just not sure how easy it is to lay the translucent onto the clear media without issues.

 

[J Hill Designs]

wow that seems to be a fair idea..

my only thought is the added thickness would mess up feed comp and output size comp

 

[Fastsigns2041]

That sounds a lot more difficult and time consuming than clicking "High Ink Level". I've never had anyone complain that the colors of their sign were ever so slightly darker.

 

[sfr table hockey]

wow that seems to be a fair idea..

my only thought is the added thickness would mess up feed comp and output size comp

That could be an issue. I guess if a person did a test and measured it you could adj the print in the feed direction by a small % amount. From there record that info and use when dealing with the same media.

 

[sfr table hockey]

That sounds a lot more difficult and time consuming than clicking "High Ink Level". I've never had anyone complain that the colors of their sign were ever so slightly darker.

You are right that if this way works and the color is still within the customers desires then it will be less steps. But there are times when that method may not work and thus the reason for a second layer.