Best Flatbed Printer Option for Aluminum Blanks

[ProntoSigns]

We use a FluidColor UV ink flatbed and print aluminum all the time. Use a true flated but remember it can only print one thickness of material at a time (so all 063 or all 040, but no mixing of thicknesses in a single run as it sets one head height per run). We print a jig onto the bed and load all the aluminum to match the jig and then print a bed full at a time. Most of ours get laminated after printing - we use a cold laminator (CutWorkTable CWT1640). Mimaki makes a nice Flatbed UV printer too.

Thank you for the feedback.

What are you using to print the jigs?

What is your workflow? Do you create the file in ai or something similar and import it into to rip as 1 file?

 

[ProntoSigns]

We print on many different guages I'd say most of our blanks are 080 though. As far as jigs what I do if I have a big order of blanks I'll go into illustrator and create a file with as many outlined blanks I can fit on 4x8. Print that directly on the bed. The use that as a template and line up your metal blanks within the outlines. Hard to type that out to explain thoroughly.. Am I making sense?

Apologize for my ignorance but when you say print that directly on the bed. I assume you print the outlines of the blanks on the bed itself and when the job is done you can remove the ink from the bed?

 

[bdw99]

Apologize for my ignorance but when you say print that directly on the bed. I assume you print the outlines of the blanks on the bed itself and when the job is done you can remove the ink from the bed?

Correct.

 

[bdw99]

If you have any questions about Epsons rip and stuff feel free to dm me and I can go through it with you

 

[Adam Vreeke]

We do a lot of metal on our Mimaki JFX200-2513 with LH-100 ink using P2 primer. After 24 hour curing time we can cut through the print with no chipping.

 

[signheremd]

Thank you for the feedback.

What are you using to print the jigs?

What is your workflow? Do you create the file in ai or something similar and import it into to rip as 1 file?

We use SAi Flexi and set up the signs to fit within 4'x8'. We then copy that and delete everything but the outside shape of each sign and put a 0.01 stroke on them. Then we send over the jig file and the print file, print the jig right onto the flatbed, lay al the aluminum pieces inside of the jigs, and then print the aluminums.

 

[MelloImagingTechnologies]

You need to go with a true flatbed.
Today I watched a customer print with an R1000 and it takes him 30 minutes to print a 4 x 8

 

[ProntoSigns]

We print on many different guages I'd say most of our blanks are 080 though. As far as jigs what I do if I have a big order of blanks I'll go into illustrator and create a file with as many outlined blanks I can fit on 4x8. Print that directly on the bed. The use that as a template and line up your metal blanks within the outlines. Hard to type that out to explain thoroughly.. Am I making sense?

How easy is it to remove the ink from the jig and

We use SAi Flexi and set up the signs to fit within 4'x8'. We then copy that and delete everything but the outside shape of each sign and put a 0.01 stroke on them. Then we send over the jig file and the print file, print the jig right onto the flatbed, lay al the aluminum pieces inside of the jigs, and then print the aluminums.

Got it, thank you

 

[bdw99]

How easy is it to remove the ink from the jig and

Got it, thank you

Super easy, just have a razor blade with a handle and it scrapes right off. Sometimes might have to hit it with alcohol after if you want it spotless.

 

[StratoJet]

Apologize for my ignorance but when you say print that directly on the bed. I assume you print the outlines of the blanks on the bed itself and when the job is done you can remove the ink from the bed?

Or just use tape to create your grid, then remove. Jigs work the best

 

[echeverrit]

we currently do all our UV flatbed printing on Roland IU-1000F, before this version we had the Roland LEJ-640 - both true flatbed UV printers - 4'x8' bed; we print 4mm coroplast, .040, .080, 3MM composite, acrylic blanks, coasters, 30 mil magnets, foamboard... vacuum on the current 1000F is really good with 4 independent zones. We use the UV gloss as spot varnish on all aluminum/composite signage for added protection.

The only adhesion issues we've had are printing on high intensity prismatic reflective aluminum - we apply an adhesion promoter right before printing, then we have to let the sign cure for at least 24 hours before we pack and ship.

We are the in-house printshop for an aggregate company so all of our signage is used out in our quarries from the West Coast to the East Coast and Virgin Islands and these signs last well out in all conditions.