Big squeegee for lamination?

[Mattc]

I heard so many good comments about big squeegee from many people and I'd like to try by myself.
I watched many Youtube video using big squeegee, and I just wonder.
Can I pull the print instead pushing big squeegee? I have limited space in my workroom and table, but I'd like to try 50" big squeegee.

 

[Gino]

You mean like screen printing..... I guess so, once you get the hang of doing it the correct way and understand the logistics.

 

[ericmitchell29]

I think he means having the bigsqueegee stationary with weights probably and pull the print and lam under the squeegee.

Is that what you mean?
If so, I've thought about it myself, not sure though. Would like to see it done.

 

[Colin]

As it requires the lam to be taped down on the starting end, how would that work?

 

[Mattc]

Yes, that's what I meant.

I didn't know the print has to be tape down, but I like to know if anyone tried differently.

I think he means having the bigsqueegee stationary with weights probably and pull the print and lam under the squeegee.

Is that what you mean?
If so, I've thought about it myself, not sure though. Would like to see it done.

 

[The Big Squeegee]

a floor or wall can also be used for lamination.

 

[Colin]

Just watch the dust & debris on the floor.

 

[VinylLabs.com]

I was actually looking into the big squeegee yesterday too! got a quote from my supplier for 131$ for a 56" one.

 

[Mosh]

They work great. We use our to laminate everything under 5-6 feet long.

 

[TheSnowman]

Just get something with a heavy liner. All I've ever bought is the Oracal lam...and it's backer sucks. I've learned how to use it, but can't do the bigger stuff w/o trouble. I'm not sure which is best, but I think Dale has some results on it.

 

[signcrafters london]

Just get something with a heavy liner. All I've ever bought is the Oracal lam...and it's backer sucks. I've learned how to use it, but can't do the bigger stuff w/o trouble. I'm not sure which is best, but I think Dale has some results on it.

Kraig, what kind of tips do you have for products with thin backer? I'm trying to cover entire 4x8 sheets of dibond with Oracal 721. Not sure if it has the thin backer like you say 210 lam does but it's giving me fits.

I've read other threads that suggest using one hand on the liner and one hand on the sqeegee. That hasn't worked at all. I guess I'll try one person holding the liner while I squeegee, but I haven't had anyone around today to help.

I found a thread this morning that suggested taping the vinyl/lam tightly to a core, but now that I'm ready to try it I can't find it. (yes, I'm in idiot mode today)

 

[signcrafters london]

EDIT: I think my solution will be an extra pair of hands to help with the liner. I tried a 4' x 4' piece by myself while ago and the only place I got bubbles was where I stopped squeegeeing for a second.

 

[Mosh]

Two peolpe work better on BIG stuff. One on the BS and one on the backer. On long big stuff use a tube to roll the backer up as you go.

 

[signcrafters london]

Thanks, Mosh. Does it make any difference if either/both of the people are Mexican?

 

[The Big Squeegee]

Thin backing...

Thanks, Mosh. Does it make any difference if either/both of the people are Mexican?

The problems that most often occur with applying with one hand and pulling the liner with the other are.

1. The tendency to twist the squeegee in an attempt to apply more pressure. This will only result in distorting the tool enough to allow air to get under the vinyl. Don't try so hard....It really is easy!

2. The tug is in a direction in which the squeegee is lifted up during application. Never tug upward. It is best to slide the backing off in front of the tool. Static can be a big problem when doing this but a good ground on the work table should eliminate that problem. On long applications, rolling the liner up so that it rolls away as you slide the backing off, will reduce the static.

3. The rolled up vinyl must have the print side on the outside of the roll! This places the vinyl coming off the bottom so the backing does not get bent or creased in the pealing process. You can be successful with rolling it in the other direction but it is much easier to work with when done correctly.

 

[mwgraphics]

I've got a small home based business and do all my laminating with the Big Squegee (Roland SP300V using various Oracal media/lam.). When I can, I get an extra person to give a gentle plull on the backer in the direction I'm pushing the squegee. My biggest issue (mostly during the dry winters in Ontario) is static. It builds up so much that it's almost imposible to push the liner with the squegee and I find I have to have one hand on the squegee and one helping the backer. This is also when I have most of my problems (bubbles). I'm more than likely pushing too hard on the squegee when I switch to one hand. In a few months the humidity should pick up and it won't be as much of an issue. I find that there is no substitute for an extra pair of hands on large jobs though.

What's the best way to ground the table? I use a wooden table (4x8) with a cutting mat on top. I've tried to roll up the backer in front of the BS with mixed results. I've even tried a tape measue taped to the backer and clamped to the other end of the table to give a pull to the backer as I squegeed, but it didn't pull enough to counter the static build up .

Mike Wilson

 

[john1]

I've used the BS for laminating prints for about 2 years now and i love it. It does take a few 5-10 tries to get used to it but you will get the hang of it. I can almost promise!

 

[The Big Squeegee]

...What's the best way to ground the table? I use a wooden table (4x8) with a cutting mat on top...
Mike Wilson

The best way to ground a plastic table top that is insulated with wood is to place a thin piece of metal under the edge of the mat and run a wire from it to ground. Metal conduit makes a good ground. You need a broad area of contact on the plastic because the plastic does not conduct electricity very well.