Blade Depth Or Downforce?? Please Help

[Speedsterbeast]

I am trying to cut an intricate (tree) design on 3551 with 210 lam. on a Versacamm SP300V.
I am sending test cuts through and they are not working.
The sharp corners are lifting and not cutting through all the way.
I've tried about 20 tries with no luck.

I ran the range of blade force from 90-150 and made several adjustments on the blade depth as well.
The best result I got was about 120 downforce with the blade just cutting into the backing barely, but the corners were still not cut all the way through. Since then I have gone all over the place, but I'm just chasing my tail at this point.

I also slowed the cutting down to about 15cm /sec.

The blade is fairly new and I won't have a new spare until later next week.

Can anyone please offer some suggestions for a starting point that might get me closer?

 

[sfr table hockey]

You could try to set the number of passes in the cut tab (5th tab) settings (flexi Production manager) to 2 passes and you might even be able to drop back the pressure if it works.

Just did some decals with 751 cast and 210 matt lam and needed 2 passes at 140.

My blade is also due to be changed.

 

[GVP]

What angle blade? We find we get best results when cutting laminated vinyl using the 60 degree blade.

 

[Speedsterbeast]

It is a 45 degree.
I did not know that 60 is better for laminates.
I will order one on Monday. Thanks

Any other suggestions on downforce range would also be greatly appreciated.

 

[ProWraps]

cutting laminated material for very intricate work will never yield very good results. you have two layers of adhesive that the blade is fighting, sticking to at depth, etc.

as mentioned above 60 degree may help.

 

[Ponto]

cutting laminated material for very intricate work will never yield very good results. you have two layers of adhesive that the blade is fighting, sticking to at depth, etc.

as mentioned above 60 degree may help.

+1...if the graphic needs added protection I use a spray bomb (ie. frog juice, etc.) and avoid calendared laminates in this sort of scenario...

JP

 

[Speedsterbeast]

What type of lifespan can I expect with frogjuice?
The print is going on white plexiglass outside of a restaurant.
One will be facing north the other west.

 

[bob]

First, do not use Frog Juice or any other solvent based coating on a solvent print. Use a water based clear coat such as Clear Shield. Frog Juice is especially vile, the only use for it I've ever found is coating MDF board so that vinyl will adhere to it. Other than that, it's garbage.

Now to your cutting problems. First install a new blade. If you even suspect a blade is dull, it is. If you're curious, examine your blade under a loupe. If the tip is in any way rounded or nicked, it's dull. A sharp blade will come to a perfect point. When you change blades put a wee bit of silicone grease on the tip of a toothpick and lubricate the tiny bearings against which the blade swivels. I'm not familiar with your exact mechanism, but I've never seen a drag knife cutter than didn't have them.

Next blow the dust and crud out of the tool carriage paying special attention to the blade up/down mechanism. Use clean compressed air or one of those spray cans with just air in it. Never, ever, lubricate this mechanism, just keep it clean. When the blade up/down mechanism gets dirty it will cause the problems you describe.

 

[Ponto]

First, do not use Frog Juice or any other solvent based coating on a solvent print. Use a water based clear coat such as Clear Shield. Frog Juice is especially vile, the only use for it I've ever found is coating MDF board so that vinyl will adhere to it. Other than that, it's garbage.

Now to your cutting problems. First install a new blade. If you even suspect a blade is dull, it is. If you're curious, examine your blade under a loupe. If the tip is in any way rounded or nicked, it's dull. A sharp blade will come to a perfect point. When you change blades put a wee bit of silicone grease on the tip of a toothpick and lubricate the tiny bearings against which the blade swivels. I'm not familiar with your exact mechanism, but I've never seen a drag knife cutter than didn't have them.

Next blow the dust and crud out of the tool carriage paying special attention to the blade up/down mechanism. Use clean compressed air or one of those spray cans with just air in it. Never, ever, lubricate this mechanism, just keep it clean. When the blade up/down mechanism gets dirty it will cause the problems you describe.

...and there you have it......a concise and definitive response....."...if you're curious..." and "a sharp blade will come to a perfect point....":ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:... happy louping........

JP