Butt Seaming Aluminum/Steel - How Do Ya'?

[TwoNine]

The reason I'm asking is because for years I have done it "my way" which is just to take to two ends, bevel the edges, put them together, tack/stitch it every so often (depending on thickness), fill weld it, grind it.

But there is a thread here that mentions what I can can only assume is the same process up to the fill portion. Where instead of using weld - you still tack or stitch the sheet and then use Lord and some scrap aluminum/steel to make a back plate to bond the pieces (I'm guessing around 3/4" - 2"???) and then fill with Bondo or whatever. The theory is that fully welded panels warp too much and this method helps.

I've never used the second method, although I must admit, it sounds like a pretty good way, especially for thinner panels (something like .063" and under) and plus it could maybe save some time??? Maybe? I just don't know...

I am just concerned about transport and handling issues and what if you need to flex/bend the panel? Or what if the panel is made into a radius - do you make the radius first and just soft fit the pieces until you're ready to set it?

I guess all that could be summed up to ask: Is it as durable or nearly as durable as full welded sheets? Also - is this method generally accepted upon permit submissions, engineer drawings, etc.

So, I guess the question that I have is - who uses what style and why?

Thanks everyone!
-Chad

 

[skyhigh]

thats exactly what i do. I have 2 stencil cut cabinets in the shop now where i used the lord adh and a 3 in strip of alum. Im using 080 or l25. My cabinets are 8 x 6. The adhesive whl fil the séam also.

 

[nwsigns]

That was my reply obviously and I guess I assumed that you would have some sort of frame on such a large panel. We did a 5' x 19' made from 5'x10' dibond panels this way recently and even if it was fully welded thicker aluminum a huge floppy panel would be really tough to move around.

For that job we used Lords Adhesive 406-19 to attach a 2" aluminum angle frame on the back and take care of the seam as mentioned above. Scuff up the painted dibond where you use the Lords and clean the aluminum well and you will NOT get them apart without destroying the aluminum skins. You can just let the Lords squeeze out the seam and sand and paint but I dont like how it tools so I use the Gold light Bondo which is awesome stuff for filler - get it at an autobody store not that crap they sell at Home Deopot which sands like gum.

 

[ddarlak]

Gold light Bondo

good to know, i always hassle with the cheap crap...

 

[signage]

For body puddies I prefer the Evercoat brand!

 

[J Hill Designs]

yup evercoat easy sand is really nice to work with

 

[TwoNine]

nwsigns - Very cool technique. I've heard of people doing it this way before - just never done it. I've used similar method for doing large acrylic faces before (putting clear on the back, etc...) just never done it with large Dibond/ACM/Aluminum/Steel or anything else really. I like! Learn something new everyday I guess....

everybody - So then for working on them - let's say you have a radius...I'm thinking like maybe a 14'-20'(???) or whatever face that bows out from a wall with maybe flat cut lettering on it or push thrus or whatever. So - would you be able to roll a sheet done like that after it's been glued up? Personally, I think you wouldn't - I'd think your backer piece would interfere and cause a crease. So you just roll the 2 halves first, then seam it up?

Also - you would still bevel your pieces like you're gonna weld it up then, right? Gotta have somewhere for the filler??? Oh - and again, does this method usually 'fly' with cities/counties/etc for permitting - or is it shown/drawn as a "solid" panel? I've always shown mine as a solid panel for drawings, simply because once it's fully welded it essentially is. I'd just hate to get "that" inspector that calls you on having a (in)visible seam and a backer on a sign when it's drawn as a solid piece. DB's....

Also, +1 for the Gold Light. However, it's looking like I may have to get a quart of Evercoat and try it out.

Anyway - thanks everyone, keep it coming if you use some other method, always open to learning - the info is appreciated.

-Chad