CAN SOMEONE SCHOOL ME ON ROLLING AND PACKING UP LARGE FORMAT PRINTS FOR SHIPPING, any videos or tutorials out there?

[depps74]

I been printing for 3-4 years now, I have struggled with how best to pack my prints because my customers do not require lamination so I am limited by how much I can move them around. My current process is to lay them out on a very clean floor or table. I then make sure all the edges are aligned. I then hold them tight to the core (I don't tape them, should I?). Then I roll them up, image side out. I get into trouble when the start skewing or coming off the core. I eventually get it so that they are on there with enough strength and room to stay on the core. I then put the core on the plastic ends so it is stays off the ground in the box. I Secure it with a cover layer of brown paper and strap it together with Seyran wrap. The more prints I have to roll the harder it becomes. The large prints are the hardest I'm talking anywhere between 6-10 tiles over 48-50" by 12-15 ft give me a really hard time every time and since they are so big it just gets to be quite the fail.

My question is this: Is there a video or tutorial out there or a method that is tried and true for doing this? Do you tape to the core before rolling? Is there a way to avoid skewing off the core?

 

[depps74]

Yes, tape to the core first, otherwise if your grip slips it unwinds some and if it's loose on the core its going to slide around more.
Tape it to the core true the first time. That's not really possible, but after the first turn or two, you should make adjustments that keep the rest straight.
You may look into an aftermarket take up reel just for packing.
If it's a big enough pain, you may want to work lamination into your overhead and just laminate everything that comes off the printer. This doesn't really work for 'wall coverings' like phototex.
What is your target customer base? Cheap, fast, or convenient?

ok, yes that should help then. I am so new to printing (3 years) and the jobs I get are large murals for museums. So I can't imagine laminating it all, hard enough to get the print right, if it gets screwed up in the laminator then I am rback to square one. Of course I am back to square one if it scratches too!
thank you for your help. Do you know of any videos on this?

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I dont think they will hold up well with no laminate and museum traffic. Laminating is not hard

 

[depps74]

I dont think they will hold up well with no laminate and museum traffic. Laminating is not hard

I appreciate the feedback, been doing these for about 3-4 years and they hold up fine without the lam, I think mostly because they are only up for 2-3 months at a time.

 

[johnnysigns]

Dave you could always get a roll of newsprint and layer that between the prints to help with scratching. It'll make rolling them up a little more difficult as they'll slide easier, but it should give some added protection on the printed faces. Uline has rolls of the newsprint.

 

[Snydo]

We use a corrugated roll material for large pieces, it helps support the graphics and keeps them from shifting around during shipment. You can get it up to 70" wide, A-flute is best.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

The place I order flexfaces from puts real thin paper over the print side and rolls it up.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

You have to be careful about paper sticking to an unlaminated print. For this, the slick side of vinyl backer would be my go to. When our paint shop is slammed, we use it to mask paint that is fairly fresh in order to spray a second color. Also use it on truck decks to walk in if the primer is fresh.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

We use a corrugated roll material for large pieces, it helps support the graphics and keeps them from shifting around during shipment. You can get it up to 70" wide, A-flute is best.
View attachment 161098

That stuff would probably stick