Canvas Prints Warping

[klingsdesigns]

So we have been doing canvas prints for about three years now and never had a problem or had anyone let us know of a problem. Printing with a vp-540 on neshen monet canvas.

We make the frames out of 1x2 select board form home depot or menards. We then cut the boards at 45 degree glue and nail them together. Then we print on monet canvas and hand stretch them around the frame.
I have noticed at my parents house they have about 6 canvas's we made. The canvas is starting to get wavy on the front and looking warped. I also noticed one other customers that became wavy.

I did some search on the internet and people are saying it is the humidity. I did take a wet paper toweling and wipe it on the back of the canvas and heat it with a blow dryer.
It did flatten it out. The next day it looked like it was going to start to get wavy again.

We dont laminate the canvas. Will this help if we use a clear shield. What can we do so this doesn't happen in the future?

 

[d fleming]

Heavier lumber, more tension.

 

[klingsdesigns]

Heavier lumber, more tension.

What do you think a 1x3. I dont want to go 1x4 thats pretty big. Also on tension I pull it pretty tight. I feel like I might be going too tight.

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

Are you using a light weight wood like a pine furring strip or denser like ceder or walnut?

If using pine its prone to warping due to the light weight of the wood. Switching to a dense wood will be costly but much more durable.

 

[phototec]

I do about the same as you, make my own frames 3/4 x 1-1/4" (1x4 ripped in half), glue and nail the corners, however anything over 24" wide gets a center support, and on 48" two supports evenly spaced.

I print on canvas from LexJet and always coat with clear shield, I use stretching pliers made for stretching canvas and follow the recommended procedure when stretching, starting in the centers and working towards the corners.

Just checked and I have some that are over 5 years old and they sound like a drum when you snap them with your finger.

Don't really know what is causing your problems, just know what I'm doing works.

 

[ddarlak]

I had the same problem, except I was buying the frames...

frames warp/shrink causing the canvas to warp.

I had to fix 30 of them

 

[Slim White]

Use Stretchers, Not Strainers

IF you glue and/or nail the corners together, these are strainers and cannot retension the canvas if it sags. Actual canvas stretcher bars are not glued or nailed together, so you can push keys into the corners to incrementally enlarge the frame, thereby increasing the tension. Over the years I have seen many people try to save money by building their own canvas stretchers, which makes no sense since canvas stretchers are readily available and pretty cheaply had.

 

[d fleming]

+1 center supports

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

IF you glue and/or nail the corners together, these are strainers and cannot retension the canvas if it sags. Actual canvas stretcher bars are not glued or nailed together, so you can push keys into the corners to incrementally enlarge the frame, thereby increasing the tension. Over the years I have seen many people try to save money by building their own canvas stretchers, which makes no sense since canvas stretchers are readily available and pretty cheaply had.

I have also heard that the wood used by co. that make strethcher bars are more seasoned and not as fresh. Where as home depot wood just got cut off the tree. If you are using that wood it is still pretty wet. So as your canvas sits against it it will warp as well as the wood will shrink from drying slightly and warp that way also.

 

[klingsdesigns]

I do about the same as you, make my own frames 3/4 x 1-1/4" (1x4 ripped in half), glue and nail the corners, however anything over 24" wide gets a center support, and on 48" two supports evenly spaced.

I print on canvas from LexJet and always coat with clear shield, I use stretching pliers made for stretching canvas and follow the recommended procedure when stretching, starting in the centers and working towards the corners.

Just checked and I have some that are over 5 years old and they sound like a drum when you snap them with your finger.

Don't really know what is causing your problems, just know what I'm doing works.

The ones that i have noticed that are warping or getting wavy are 10x16 or around that size. When we go bigger we add corner supports and center supports. Maybe I will have to get a stretcher pliers and really stretch it.

 

[klingsdesigns]

IF you glue and/or nail the corners together, these are strainers and cannot retension the canvas if it sags. Actual canvas stretcher bars are not glued or nailed together, so you can push keys into the corners to incrementally enlarge the frame, thereby increasing the tension. Over the years I have seen many people try to save money by building their own canvas stretchers, which makes no sense since canvas stretchers are readily available and pretty cheaply had.

The reason we make our own is that we make them fit custom to the customers canvas size they want or need. I thought the stretcher bars were more of a fixed size.

 

[phototec]

I have also heard that the wood used by co. that make strethcher bars are more seasoned and not as fresh. Where as home depot wood just got cut off the tree. If you are using that wood it is still pretty wet. So as your canvas sits against it it will warp as well as the wood will shrink from drying slightly and warp that way also.

I purchase 1x4 select popular from Home Depot, which is Kiln dried not green like other lumber, it is made for building cabinets, doors and other finished trim items, and NEVER shrinks.

I don't know what type of lumber the OP purchased for his frames, even 1x4 pine comes in different grades, and they have a select clear grade of white pine that is also Kiln dried and good for woodworking and cabinet building.

Home has two sections for lumber, the raw building lumber area and then the finished quality lumber I'm referring to, yes it's more expansive, but well worth the money for projects like Gallery Wraps. You really can't use the cheap 1x4's that are made for furring strips and corner bracing wit framing a house.

 

[klingsdesigns]

I purchase 1x4 select popular from Home Depot, which is Kiln dried not green like other lumber, it is made for building cabinets, doors and other finished trim items, and NEVER shrinks.

I don't know what type of lumber the OP purchased for his frames, even 1x4 pine comes in different grades, and they have a select clear grade of white pine that is also Kiln dried and good for woodworking and cabinet building.

Home has two sections for lumber, the raw building lumber area and then the finished quality lumber I'm referring to, yes it's more expansive, but well worth the money for projects like Gallery Wraps. You really can't use the cheap 1x4's that are made for furring strips and corner bracing wit framing a house.

The stuff i was using was kiln dried. Do you think i need to up from a 1x2 to a 1x4 to stop the problem i am having?