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Canvas Questions

Signed Out

Signed Out

New Member
Have a few canvas projects coming up, and have never printed on canvas before. Printing on roland xj 540, eco sol max inks. Lots of people on here recommend monet canvas from fellers, among many other canvas materials. Has anybody ever printed on any of the ultraflex canvas? We love ultraflex's banner material and would like to stick with them if their canvas products are good.

Does printed canvas need to be laminated with a liquid lam like clearshield? If so is the lamination for scratch resistance more so than fade resistance? The ones we will be making will be indoors. Does stretching laminated canvas over a frame have any ill effects?

Any tips or suggestions for printing canvas are greatly appreciated.
 
phototec

phototec

New Member
I always use a satin liquid lam to protect the canvas, I brush it on randomly, gives it a hand painted look, stretching over wood frames does not effect the canvas.
 
A

aaronJREgraphics

New Member
canvas material

hey there, My shop does large quantity canvas orders threw groupon and we have used a lot of different materials and the monet canvas from fellers is a great product but dont get set on it there are tons i mean tons of good canvas manufactures out there that make a great product that has great quality and abrasion resistance and also stretch great at almost .20 cents less a sq/ft. I would recommend checking out some of aurora graphics canvas and fisher textile products both have a wide range of products and price ranges we use an aurora for cheaper large run orders and the fisher for bigger more one off orders. Also about the ultraflex canvas we used the c220 fro awhile and it wasn't great at all we tried a few other of their products and didnt really find one we like tell we got close to the 1.00$ sq/ft range so just in my experience i would watch ultraflex, but ya never know. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions i feel like canvas is my life lately so i know of a lot of tricks, thanks a good luck!
 
Signed Out

Signed Out

New Member
How flexible is printed canvas? With lam? I won't be framing these, my customer will at his shop. Can it be rolled up to transport in a car?
 
klingsdesigns

klingsdesigns

New Member
I use the monet canvas from fellers and love it.. Use it all the time. Never tried to laminate it. We stretch it over 1x2 select board that we make a frame out of.
 
J

JLD984

New Member
Tell them to use spray on laminate after it has been stretched onto the frame, that's what I always do and it works fine.
 
prosigner

prosigner

New Member
We have been printing on Neschen Monet Canvas, it has been working well and looks great when printed on with our Roland. We are looking into Urth PureG Satin 60" roll for an archival roll but it's on the expensive side. We are either moving to Urth Pure G or Fredrix Matte 62" roll, heard pretty good things! I'll let you know how it goes if we end up going with them for our next stock over Urth.

I've read that solvent don't need to be coated, but I'm still not 100% sure on the subject. We haven't been coating ours and they have been doing well so far after stretching.
 
bob

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
prosigner said:
...I've read that solvent don't need to be coated, but I'm still not 100% sure on the subject. We haven't been coating ours and they have been doing well so far after stretching.
Click to expand...

If you don't use Clear Shield or a similar product you're merely getting away with it and it will bite you in the butt one day.

Unlike banner most material**, solvent printable canvas is only solvent printable because it has a coating. You print on the coating, not on the canvas. This coating is relatively soft as opposed to, say, vinyl. Probably so you can fold it and stretch it. Since it's softer than other media it's concomitantly more delicate. It's remarkably easy to scratch a canvas print, especially a gallery wrap where the edges and especially the corners are extremely vulnerable to violence.

By using a clear coat, always water based on a solvent print, you make the final work orders of magnitude less susceptible to the casual bump, rub, and abrasion. Print it, coat it, and stretch it. Even coated you should stretch a print on top of a soft surface like an army blanket or something. I use an old quilt. If you don't use some type of pad you'll tend to grind the ink off the corners in short order.

**While most banner media does have a coated side, it's still vinyl and you can print on both sides if need be. Try that with canvas
 
phototec

phototec

New Member
bob said:
If you don't use Clear Shield or a similar product you're merely getting away with it and it will bite you in the butt one day.

Unlike banner most material**, solvent printable canvas is only solvent printable because it has a coating. You print on the coating, not on the canvas. This coating is relatively soft as opposed to, say, vinyl. Probably so you can fold it and stretch it. Since it's softer than other media it's concomitantly more delicate. It's remarkably easy to scratch a canvas print, especially a gallery wrap where the edges and especially the corners are extremely vulnerable to violence.

By using a clear coat, always water based on a solvent print, you make the final work orders of magnitude less susceptible to the casual bump, rub, and abrasion. Print it, coat it, and stretch it. Even coated you should stretch a print on top of a soft surface like an army blanket or something. I use an old quilt. If you don't use some type of pad you'll tend to grind the ink off the corners in short order.

**While most banner media does have a coated side, it's still vinyl and you can print on both sides if need be. Try that with canvas
Click to expand...

:goodpost:

Bob, is 1000% correct, always use a clear liquid coating to protect the surface of the canvas, like insurance, you don't need it until you NEED IT.

Clear Shield is a good product to use.

:thumb:
 
prosigner

prosigner

New Member
bob said:
If you don't use Clear Shield or a similar product you're merely getting away with it and it will bite you in the butt one day.

Unlike banner most material**, solvent printable canvas is only solvent printable because it has a coating. You print on the coating, not on the canvas. This coating is relatively soft as opposed to, say, vinyl. Probably so you can fold it and stretch it. Since it's softer than other media it's concomitantly more delicate. It's remarkably easy to scratch a canvas print, especially a gallery wrap where the edges and especially the corners are extremely vulnerable to violence.

By using a clear coat, always water based on a solvent print, you make the final work orders of magnitude less susceptible to the casual bump, rub, and abrasion. Print it, coat it, and stretch it. Even coated you should stretch a print on top of a soft surface like an army blanket or something. I use an old quilt. If you don't use some type of pad you'll tend to grind the ink off the corners in short order.

**While most banner media does have a coated side, it's still vinyl and you can print on both sides if need be. Try that with canvas
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information bob, really appreciate it. You make a lot of sense. :)

Do you guys usually use Clear Shield Original formula? How far does a gallon of this stuff get you?
 
phototec

phototec

New Member
prosigner said:
Do you guys usually use Clear Shield Original formula? How far does a gallon of this stuff get you?
Click to expand...

Don't use the Original formula, which is typically used for rigid out door signage, I use the ClearShield C (for canvas), Type C exhibits the flexibility required for stretching canvas with no cracking of the clear coat. I get about 450-480 s/f per gallon using a brush or roller.

http://www.magicinkjet.com/uploadedfiles/marabu_liquid_laminate_manual_us_2012.pdf

Good luck
 
MrSalumi

MrSalumi

New Member
I have used a few different products from various manufacturers. Nechen cheapo canvas was my least favorite. It seemed like it was already coated and the spaces between the weaves were filled with coating. It printed beautifully on my SolJet but didn't seem like it was going to hold up for any amount of time. Liquid laming it might have helped but only in certain situations.

What I really like are the Egyptian and Venetian cloths from Sonoma Graphics. A little spendy but damn they look perfect when they are done.. No need to lam which saves cost and time as well and can sometimes justify the increased material cost.

my .02c
 
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