Cjv30-130 Head replacement?

[RL67POLO]

Hi all

Have been loving my mimaki for 6 years but she is starting to finally get some fuzzy/grainy issues with blacks and some other slight streaking issues.

I have been looking into a DX or Chinese head replacement myself but just wanted to find out if anyone thinks these test prints show we need a new head or can possibly fix it another way?

Any help is much appreciated

 

[ironchef]

Are you printing bidirectional?

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[C5 Service&Repair]

the nozzle check is sketchy, but your printed lettering looks like it could be the heater/dryer not being hot enough. how old is your captop and wiper? Is the flush position set correctly?

 

[RL67POLO]

Those lettering prints were on gloss8 setting in rasterlink and I believe bi directional ( whatever is the standard one for vinyl we only use the other setting for banner) I will post back tomorrow what setting it was

I can take a pic of the captop and wiper - the sponge is pretty juiced that is all the way to the right with black ink which makes me
Wonder if it’s not the head. Will post some pics up tomorrow

What are temps you’d think are ideal if it’s a heat issue?

 

[C5 Service&Repair]

i would look at the gap between the head and the material the best you can while its printing and see if its dragging ink around with it. Temps for a glossy vinyl probably around 40C on the print dryer and 45C on the post dryer.

 

[RL67POLO]

I check our temps they are 50c/50c/50c which is what the last mimaki tech set them too

Checked the head and no ink dragging

I did take a before and after cleaning pic of the head tho - attached are capstation ( head pic before and after) and test print

Still wondering if we need a new head because the mimaki tech says that is the only thing to fix it. It’s a shame it’s just the black

 

[Solventinkjet]

The black is definitely deflecting and judging by the nozzle check it is probably unrecoverable. If you look at the bottom of the head you can see how pronounced the nozzle lines are. That is usually a sign of an older head. You could try flushing it to recover but it's a gamble.

Also, 50/50/50 is way too high for heat settings. It's different for every material but you should be closer to the mid 30's for the pre and platen heater and then you can crank the post heater up all the way to 50.

 

[C5 Service&Repair]

The bottom of that head looks horrible. It should be a mirror gold finish. Id say its a goner for being perfect.

 

[RL67POLO]

Thanks a lot for the advice guys, I’m going to go forward with the new head. She’s been a great machine I’d rather keep her instead of the new gen mimaki.

You think it’s worth it to get the non-oem head and swap it out ? (I’ve worked on solvent and DTG printers before) Our local mimaki dealer wants an arm and a leg for the head+install..

Thanks again!

 

[hand851]

2100 for OEM Mimaki head suggest you change dampers, cap top and pump.

 

[OmegaAdv]

That printer isn't cleaned months....I bet that if you clean your head bottom and cappingstation,head soak and hard cleanings sometimes, print 5-10sqm.... the head will come good!!!


P.S. Also the wiper is so deformed...

 

[RL67POLO]

We clean it once a week easily if not more, a lot of media has been printed on here though. Will check out the wiper etc

Is it worth messing around trying to fix this guys or a new head will fix all this issue?

 

[Case]

Do not get a non-OEM head... You need the OEM head with the green connector..... The non OEM heads with the black connectors will only work on a JV33/CJV with a very low firmware..... 2.2 or lower I believe.... Correct me if I'm wrong........ Not worth it... And once your firmware is to a certain level, you can't even take it back down.... That was done by Mimaki to prevent people from using the non OEM heads.......

Case

 

[SightLine]

Actually that is not really correct. You can use generic heads with firmware 4.4 and higher if you know a trick but (and its a big one), all of the current generic heads on the market nowadays a 2nd and 3rd generation locked which can sometimes be used if you also get a decoder board that you must rig up with a second set of head cables in between the head and the slider board along with rigging a way to keep it all out of the way on the fast moving head carriage. Not to mention that many of the decoder boards have proven to not be very reliable in the long run.

Best to just bite the bullet and get an OEM head with the green connector. Then you just install it and it works. You can also find them from some places for as low as around $1500.

 

[Active Sign]

Replace your dampers, cap top, and wiper. Give it a good weekend head soak and see where you are at before buying the new head.


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