Cold-weather silicone for exterior Gemini/stud installs?

[White Haus]

Do you guys have a brand/series of silicone you like to use for winter/cold temp stud mount installs?

We supplied a bunch of flat cut aluminum letters to a customer for them to install, and now they're asking.

I personally don't install these (we usually sub out installs like this) so I'd like to recommend something proper for them.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ray Miller]

Call or contact Chemical Concepts. They're in PA. They're great. They might even still be a Merchant Member here.

 

[rjssigns]

Lexel

 

[Gino]

Same here........ Chemical Concepts. Use them all the time. 1-800 220-1966

 

[2B]

Moze is the install guru,
I'm sure he has a list of adhesives for EVERY weather condition

 

[rjssigns]

Suggestions - Stud mounting adhesive

I’m sure This will get some people going but I have heard many different opinions on stud mounting “adhesives.” I have been told by some sign companies that any caulk will do, some say to just use silicone caulk, some say to use construction adhesive (which sounds like overkill). I know a lot of...

www.signs101.com

 

[unclebun]

We use GE clear Advanced Silicone 2. The purpose of sealant when installing Gemini letters is not to glue the letter to the wall, but to seal the hole. The studs will hold the letter to the wall by friction alone. The silicone will enhance that, and prevent water intrusion into the substrate. You want the letters to be removable without damaging the wall or your holes. This allows repainting the wall, replacing letters under warranty, moving letters to a new office, etc.

Silicone can be applied below 32 degrees F, but will not cure quickly under those conditions. It is not harmed, just takes longer to cure. It doesn't really matter what brand the silicone is, as it depends on humidity to cure, and humidity is in short supply below freezing.

 

[MikePro]

fun fact, you smoosh silicone flat and its no longer a good adhesive.
add tabs of VHB or foam tape to create a proper gap for silicone to have strong hold.

 

[Moze]

Without knowing all of the variables, acetoxy cures faster than neutral, so GE l or similar should be fine.

 

[White Haus]

Thanks, ideally looking for something local that we can easily get our hands on.

Forgot to mention, these are 26" high x 3/8" thick aluminum letters, being installed in winter temperatures.

Gemini says talk to a hardware store...........

 

[CanuckSigns]

Pat, if you want to be 100% sure they never come off, use this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/quikrete-fastset-anchoring-epoxy-296ml/1000684856 it's expensive, and you need to work quick, but it's what they use to install rebar into concrete.

Otherwise I've had good luck with this: https://www.lowes.ca/product/multip...grip-299ml-clear-100-silicone-adhesive-820266

 

[Moze]

Thanks, ideally looking for something local that we can easily get our hands on.

Forgot to mention, these are 26" high x 3/8" thick aluminum letters, being installed in winter temperatures.

Gemini says talk to a hardware store...........

GE l is available at Home Depot. They really don't need anything special for those letters, but the acetoxy cure cures faster.

What is the wall surface?

 

[MikePro]

oof, letters that big/thick we prefer to put at least pair of studs in it and secure rest with vhb&silicone.
even just one pin would hold the letter up long enough for rest of the adhesive to cure, but i'm a big fan of at least two (one to hold-up, one to hold-square)

 

[Billct2]

For letters that large and heavy I would add some extra studs. In a solid wall with long studs they wouldn't move much anyhow. Any decent adhesive should work. Just be sure to tell them to blow out the holes after drilling.

 

[White Haus]

GE l is available at Home Depot. They really don't need anything special for those letters, but the acetoxy cure cures faster.

What is the wall surface?

Thanks, I've passed this along to the customer.

I believe the building is corrugated steel.

 

[White Haus]

Pat, if you want to be 100% sure they never come off, use this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/quikrete-fastset-anchoring-epoxy-296ml/1000684856 it's expensive, and you need to work quick, but it's what they use to install rebar into concrete.

Otherwise I've had good luck with this: https://www.lowes.ca/product/multip...grip-299ml-clear-100-silicone-adhesive-820266

Thanks Scott, I passed this along to them!

 

[Gino]

When making suggestions of any sorts such as this, I make sure I don't tell them or assure them it will work. When making these suggestions or recommendations on things, especially in things you've never personally experienced, if something goes wrong on their end, they could easily blame you. How many times do we sign shops order something and something goes wrong after it's installed ?? When it does, you want the company responsible for the faulty product to make good on it, plus the labor and whatnot, so be careful just how you word this kinda stuff.

 

[Billct2]

Corrugated steel is a special situation. It sucks to drill and is hard to get the pattern done properly, often requires extra reaming. And its a thin surface so not as secure as masonry, though the studs do hold well if the hole isn't reamed out. We have actually done these with nuts on the inside if it was accessible. If not a good blob of adhesive is required to give some grip and seal the penetration.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Corrugated steel is a special situation. It sucks to drill and is hard to get the pattern done properly, often requires extra reaming. And its a thin surface so not as secure as masonry, though the studs do hold well if the hole isn't reamed out. We have actually done these with nuts on the inside if it was accessible. If not a good blob of adhesive is required to give some grip and seal the penetration.

Drilling on the angled sides of the ridges sucks.. or right on the corner of one.

 

[Moze]

I personally wouldn't give them any install advice if they insist on installing it themselves.

Metal sucks trying to get studs through. If you drill the "correct" size hole, the studs will bind and sometimes you won't be able to get them in all the way....and it can be an absolute bear to get back out. They're going to be over their heads trying to install pieces that large and heavy.

This is like asking an electrician to just bring you parts and then asking him to explain how to work with electrical because you're too cheap to pay him.