Colex Sharpcut SX1732 Dibond Letters

[buffalocanvas]

Hello all, we're still learning our new Colex. Trying to cut 4.5" tall letters from 6mm dibond. The cuts are really nice but the letters start to move around while routing and it gets wonky, do I need to use dynamic bridges or is there a better way?

 

[JBurton]

Are you using a vacuum hold down? Leave the letters in place as it cuts, and zone it off when an area has already been cut, it's loosing vacuum through those cuts. Some folks will spray adhesive or double stick this to a piece of coroplast, only cutting through the dibond, so that you have a maximum hold down across the whole sheet, but then you start to find that letters get tossed if they don't have adhesive holding them down, and it adds labor to remove whatever adhesive. Another method is applying premask to one side, laying that side down, and trying to cut through the dibond but not through the premask. Depending on how level the table is, this can be anywhere from frustrating to impossible.
I am not familiar with these particular machines though, maybe a colex owner will have better advice.

 

[Spen101]

Couple things that might help, from my experience - - I typically never enjoy running small letters, but 6mm composite is way nicer than 3mm for small stuff...

Let's assume you have your vacuum zones properly covered, even taped on the edges for ideal hold.

- Run the job without the debris vacuum attached. The upwards force can promote movement.

- Only use a 1/8" or 3mm bit. Find the right settings where the chips stay sandwiched between the cut grooves and do not eject, do not air spray them out-- these keep them in place. Not enough for melting or a huge mess, they should be clean curls still.

- Set your start points on your letters on the easiest parts of the shapes to cut. I try to end them on the side towards the remaining uncut sheet (bottom right).

- Use paper, tape, styrene, or the top layer of plastic from the dibond, on areas already cut. Pause if needed and seal the vacuum released in those areas before continuing.

- If needed, premask the plastic cover sheet that'll be on the bottom (table) side, carefully adjust depth of cut so it doesn't make it through that mask layer.

- Have a long rigid pole or stick with electrical tape at the end, for physically holding down the letters while the cut finishes. Make sure the start points are set furthest away from where you'll be holding from.

Hope that helps.

 

[White Haus]

Couple things that might help, from my experience - - I typically never enjoy running small letters, but 6mm composite is way nicer than 3mm for small stuff...

Let's assume you have your vacuum zones properly covered, even taped on the edges for ideal hold.

- Run the job without the debris vacuum attached. The upwards force can promote movement.

- Only use a 1/8" or 3mm bit. Find the right settings where the chips stay sandwiched between the cut grooves and do not eject, do not air spray them out-- these keep them in place. Not enough for melting or a huge mess, they should be clean curls still.

- Set your start points on your letters on the easiest parts of the shapes to cut. I try to end them on the side towards the remaining uncut sheet (bottom right).

- Use paper, tape, styrene, or the top layer of plastic from the dibond, on areas already cut. Pause if needed and seal the vacuum released in those areas before continuing.

- If needed, premask the plastic cover sheet that'll be on the bottom (table) side, carefully adjust depth of cut so it doesn't make it through that mask layer.

- Have a long rigid pole or stick with electrical tape at the end, for physically holding down the letters while the cut finishes. Make sure the start points are set furthest away from where you'll be holding from.

Hope that helps.

Those are all good tips. I find masking the sheet really helps hold small pieces in place, as long as you can accurately dial in your down cut position.