Color Matching equipment?

[ATTTR]

Curious about any kind of color matching equipment that allows me to match a color from the side of a vehicle (graphics) and save it so I can translate it to Photoshop or Illustrator and color match on the computer.

For example - I needed to create replacement panels on a beverage trailer. None of the original artwork existed.
I had a devil of a time matching the colors in the existing graphics to the new print.

Is there something out there that allows me to "take a picture" so to speak, of the color on the trailer so that I can get an accurate reproduction on the computer?

Thanks!

 

[DesireeM]

I don't have an answer for you but I'm curious to know if it exists...

I'd imagine it doesn't though because anything that reads the color would use an RGB color spectrum. It wouldn't then be able to convert that information to cmyk values that would be consistent across all platforms for output. I'm not a scientist or an engineer though so I would love for someone to prove me wrong and tell me this exists.

 

[player]

It should exist. The paint dept at a local hardware store can scan a sample colour, then shows the formula to mix paint...

 

[CanuckSigns]

http://www.swatchmate.com/

 

[DIGIXTRA]

Use Eye1 and a color profile software to read the color value of the object. It will convert to whatever color space you want.

 

[Correct Color]

Yes, this is doable.

First thing you need is a spectrophotometer --typically an i1 -- and some sort of software that will accept readings from it; readings which will not be in RGB, by the way, they will be in L*a*b*.

What to do with the L*a*b* values depends a great deal on what RIP you have, on what programs you use to design, and on what types of files you send to your printer. But the best and surest way to use them is to define the color as a spot color in your RIP -- in several you can actually read it right into the RIP -- and then use that spot color name in your artwork, just the same as if it was a PMS color.

That will always give you your best possible match...with one caveat.

In order for this to work, your printer profiles must match how your printer prints exactly.

If they don't, you can still create a spot color and use the L*a*b* value, but you'll have to dink around either with the like of Katzper or by hand to get from where your profile thinks your printer the color is to where it actually is.


Mike Adams
Correct Color

 

[HulkSmash]

http://www.caldera.com/product/hardware/easy-color/

 

[rfulford]

Although I do not think you are talking specifically about color management, you will need to have a good system in place to even hope to take field color measurements back to the shop. Even then, I would not rely entirely on numeric values from a portable device. You will not eliminate the need for hard copy proofs to compare to the original. That being said, Pantone makes a product called the Capsure that might work for you. Its a portable color measurement device that will capture and store color values for any product you measure. It will store the color values or convert them to the closest pantone color. I have no idea how well it works but it is relatively inexpensive compared to other portable measurement devices I have seen. Other than that or a high end portable spectrophotometer, you will have to get a power supply, laptop and your USB tethered spectro out to the site and measure that way.

 

[P Wagner]

http://www.swatchmate.com/

This looks like a pretty neat little device. Using an i1 in the field is a bit of a pain in that it needs to be tethered to a PC. This unit will (assuming that it ships later this year) communicate LAB or sRGB color with a smartphone, making it completely portable. It also is a spherical device, making it useful for accurate measurements off of textiles and other challenging mediums. And it costs a lot less than the Capsure from Pantone.

 

[SightLine]

FlexiSign can actually do that with an i1 as well as creating custom profiles. Little known feature but in the deign part of Flexi you can use the colorimeter and from the color specs menu choose measure and it will read the color of whatever. Obviously you are either going to need Flexi on a laptop or a very long USB cable though. As mentioned there are also other apps as well that you can use with an i1 to measure a color as well.

That being said, I've tried it many times over the years and it is not as exact as you might hope. The measured color will still need adjustment.

 

[BobCap]

Color App

There is a color app I have on my IPhone that came from Oracal.

I believe it's main function is to capture a color and then match it to an Oracal Vinyl.

I have used this to grab colors from signs and match them in house.

I believe it' called Color Match?

 

[Conor Knoxx]

I supported / bought one of these on a kickstarter campaign - haven't got it yet lol, but I actually heard about here at signs 101 !
http://www.nixsensor.com/

 

[ATTTR]

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions.
I've done some research and will be handing over the info to the money folks at work to see what they will do for me!

 

[armandolo]

iOS app with NODE

Have you guys heard of NODE Chroma? I had same issue of trying to match field colors and this is something I'm researching now. Was thinking of Capsure before but I don't like the fact I can't just take a reading from that device and go order paint.

 

[chillGMS]

Yes, this is doable.

First thing you need is a spectrophotometer --typically an i1 -- and some sort of software that will accept readings from it; readings which will not be in RGB, by the way, they will be in L*a*b*.

What to do with the L*a*b* values depends a great deal on what RIP you have, on what programs you use to design, and on what types of files you send to your printer. But the best and surest way to use them is to define the color as a spot color in your RIP -- in several you can actually read it right into the RIP -- and then use that spot color name in your artwork, just the same as if it was a PMS color.

That will always give you your best possible match...with one caveat.

In order for this to work, your printer profiles must match how your printer prints exactly.

If they don't, you can still create a spot color and use the L*a*b* value, but you'll have to dink around either with the like of Katzper or by hand to get from where your profile thinks your printer the color is to where it actually is.


Mike Adams
Correct Color

Although the technology is available to assist in color reproduction, the first thing you need to determine is if the original color is even possible to being reproduced with the technology you are using to reproduce it. Take a look at the Dodge paint color "Hemi Orange". Even if you have the latest tools to read the color, how will you print it?

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

If I'm not mistaken Pantone has a handheld device just for this purpose, it scans what ever colors you want then you just upload into your computer. Liik are there website, I forgot what there called.

 

[AF]

If you are serious about the quality of the reading, then colorimeter based meters like the Capsure / Nixsensor etc are not the way to go. You can use your i1 tethered to a laptop or spend the big bucks to do it right and get this:

http://www.xrite.com/RM200QC

Or take your swatch books and hunt and peck like the old days. No matter how you measure the existing color, be prepared to print swatches of adjacent colors to get the best one. Hopefully your rip offers an easy way to do that.

 

[SignDesignExpert]

If you are serious about the quality of the reading, then colorimeter based meters like the Capsure / Nixsensor etc are not the way to go. You can use your i1 tethered to a laptop or spend the big bucks to do it right and get this:

http://www.xrite.com/RM200QC

Or take your swatch books and hunt and peck like the old days. No matter how you measure the existing color, be prepared to print swatches of adjacent colors to get the best one. Hopefully your rip offers an easy way to do that.

I agree with the above: I'd just print CMYK charts around the color, laminate and hold them up til they match. My experience with color matching (not professional systems) is that they try to balance all colors and not match one.

If you have multiple colors - do for each.

That said - fading and wear will make a new print not match an old print even if you had the file. Add to that different printers and potentially different inks and substrate - it is a bit too much.