"Color matching" metallic grey truck... on window perf

[jtiii]

I'm doing a van for a medium volume longtime customer. He's always done white before but now he has this metallic grey transit he wants lettered.
He wants me to cover the side window and rear windows with printed perf so they "disappear". What would y'all do?

I'm printing eco-sol and planning on laminating (yes opt clear), but how long before the color shifts? I'm in Michigan so not much sun...
Due to the flake is it going to be impossible to match? I'm envisioning the printed stuff being too dark in the sun, too light in the shade...
Also the windows have a wide margin of jet black "tint" and then are light-to-moderately tinted. Is this going to cause the perf to appear 2 shades? (I'm going to print a chunk and test this)

The customer is really keen on this, but isn't unreasonable;
If I tell him that it just won't work because 1) fading 2) shifting because flake 3) never matching well enough in the first place 4)???
he'll understand, I just want to either do it or tell him the reason I can't.

If I can't, any other ideas?
Thanks!

 

[jtiii]

Also, should this question have been posted in
Vinyl?
Digital Printing?
Vehicle Graphics?

Wasn't sure so I went to the default.

 

[rjssigns]

I've never done it on perf, but I've sprayed vinyl with auto paint for an exact match. Single stage works a treat. No need for base clear. Only thing I would be concerned about is the holes. I'd spray the perf, let it dry then transfer to another liner.

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

Check out the NIX Color Sensor Pro... we have been using it alot to get color matches and it works really well.

 

[jfiscus]

Print it as close as you can to color, some printers can add metallic to the ink or you can use a metallic over-laminate, but it wont be optically clear.
Make sure they understand the ONLY way to make it an exact match, is to have it painted.

 

[ChaseO]

I've never done it on perf, but I've sprayed vinyl with auto paint for an exact match. Single stage works a treat. No need for base clear. Only thing I would be concerned about is the holes. I'd spray the perf, let it dry then transfer to another liner.

I think this is the fastest method to get this project done and out of your hair. It sounds like you care about quality, so you will end up spending more time printing and comparing than you should, when if you quickly spray it, its will be as close as you will be able to get.

 

[jtiii]

I gotta get a "second opinion" on spray painting the perf! It sounds crazy but if it works...

 

[rjssigns]

Forgot to mention that anyplace that sells auto paint can put it in a spray can for you. IIRC our local parts store charges about 14 or 15 bucks. Won't be out much if it doesn't work.

 

[jtiii]

Won't be out much if it doesn't work.

Unless it DOES work - for a month or so - and then fails. I guess I could warn the customer that I was experimenting but I'd hate to do that if I didn't have to!

 

[rjssigns]

Unless it DOES work - for a month or so - and then fails. I guess I could warn the customer that I was experimenting but I'd hate to do that if I didn't have to!

Before the advent of digital printing I would airbrush all kinds of effects on vinyl. Shades, fades, prismatic letters, "chrome", etc... Never had a failure. I'd use the organic toners for enamels then clear coat.

Gotta remember you'd be using automotive paints. Stuff is made to hold up under the worst possible conditions with zero maintenance. The perf/vinly is the weak point in the system.