ColorSpan DisplayMaker 72UVX issues (imagine that!)

[Ddave72]

OK, I've got a CSDM72UVX at my new shop, and I'm trying to get it tuned up a bit, but having some issues.

First all, I know it's a dog (according to MANY previous posts, and my own experience with it so far), but until I can get it replaced, I'd like to make it a well-behaved dog, or at least one that will stop pi$$ing all over the floor (metaphorically speaking).

First I gave it a GOOD cleaning, which helped a bit, but then I ran into:

Issue #1: the print heads are wildly out of register. Edges are fuzzy (Y-axis out of register), and there is serious striping (X-axis out of register). Diving into the manual, I decided to first run the automatic calibrations and see how much that helps... lord knows how long it's been since this poor old thing was calibrated last. I figured after that, I'd go through the (apparently tedious) process of manual calibration to further tune it up.

Problem is, it's not completing the auto calibration. It prints the strip, thinks about it for a while, then says, "Automatic registration failed-- registration mark not found." Whiskey tango foxtrot!? Nowhere in the dox does it mention anything about this error, nor anything about reg marks in the calibration at all. I'm *pretty* sure I'm following the instructions correctly, but...?

Issue #2: substrate (we run coro almost exclusively on this machine) warps & lifts off the deck after passing the platen, causing head strikes. Now, I did find a post on this forum about altering the UV lamp shutter angles, and I'm going to try this. I also made a weighted roller which holds the sheet down as it comes out. Definitely helps, but only once the sheet gets far enough to go under the roller. Any more ideas?

Issue #3: STATIC!!! We've been using anti-stat spray, but that seems like a bit of a dodgy solution to me, and I'm skeptical about how it affects ink adhesion. Also, we go through those little spray cans like crazy. Gonna try to rig a dryer-sheet wipe behind the platen, but I also see in the dox mention of an "optional ionizer bar" (user manual, pg 3-25). Anyone have this? What is it, is it available, how can I get one, does it work, etc.?

OK, I know this is a long post, but I'm hoping the wisdom of the forum will prevail and send me some good ideas to try. Issue #1 is my top priority right now, since the rest matters little if the print quality isn't there. Yeah, I know it's never gonna be a LightJet, but I'd like to see a lot LESS of the banding and edge-fuzzies.

And again, I know this machine's best use may be as an underwater habitat for marine life, but until I get the machine I want, I'm stuck with the one I've got. Love the one you're with, right?

Cheers all, looking forward to the responses.

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

:Welcome: :signs101:

 

[fozzie]

Had a 72uvr.

For autocal issue 1). Your camera could be bad 2) the camera lens could be covered with ink mist and needs cleaned. 3) head height is wrong - too close or too high can prevent camera from working. 4) the nozzles are defecting too much and the camera can't see thru the overspray. 5) the calibration is so far off the autocal can't work.

We always did manual registration. You get better results than auto.

 

[Ddave72]

Chicago, thanks for the welcome, good to be here!

Fozzie, thanks for the response... just cleaned the lens, and as much as I was hoping it would be filthy, it wasn't. Of course, the printer IS working, and has no prob finding media edges etc, so I'm now kinda leaning towards "so out of whack it can't read its own test strips." Was busy with other projects today, but gonna try to find some time tomorrow to attempt a manual calibration.

Since both x- and y-axis reg is off, d'you think I should try the bi-di calibration first, or start with the X reg?

 

[omgsideburns]

When it prints the prime bars, do you have a bunch of jets out? These lines should run parallel and be sharp since it's only a single pass.

I have the ionizer. It's a fire hazard. I've replaced it twice after it started melting wires and electrocuting me. Doesn't seem to do much for static except on rigid sheet materials since that's the only thing it gets close to.. Since you're running coro yeah that would work for you.

As far as coro warping, you've gotta buy the stuff for printing. It's cut square and seems to be flatter. Also, store your coro flat..

 

[Ddave72]

Manual calibration FTW!

8 rounds of calibration, and it's gone from fuzzier than a teddy bear in an angora sweater, to crisp as a nacho chip! (well, a slightly soggy and stale nacho chip, but hey!)

It would seem that the registration was just SO incredibly out of whack that the auto calibration simply couldn't handle it. Much better now.

OK, new issue: the black ink isn't curing completely... especially the solid black edges of the calibration strips, a full day later, are still wet & smeary. (smeary? is that even a word?)

Tried bumping up the UV lamp level, but no joy. Gonna clean the lamp windows too; hopefully that will help, but any ideas?

You've all been a great help so far-- please keep it up, & I'll try to share whatever knowledge I can in return. Thanks!

 

[Ddave72]

Oh, btw I discovered I DO have the ionizer bar... didn't even realise it. Of course, there's no label on it that says "this is the ionizer bar..."

Obviously it's extremely effective (sarcasm). Still, I wonder just how bad the static issue would be WITHOUT it! Gonna try the dryer sheet thing... maybe it'll help. As I understand it, the cyan overspray is kind of endemic to this machine? Anything I can do to minimize it, well, good thing & all.

Cheers, -Dave-

 

[omgsideburns]

Ink isn't curing? Is it just the black ink? Have you recently done a "prepare for storage" or something on that printhead and filled it with the UV cleaning solution? Or did you get some solution in your ink line when you changed the ink? Even a few drops can retard the curing.

How many hours on your lamps? It might not seem like they are dull to you, but it makes a big difference in print quality going from 1000hr old lamps to new ones. Also make sure you clean the quartz windows.. both of them. (one on each lamp cartridge, the others below the lamps on the trolley)

 

[Ddave72]

Hi Tony, yeah, it's just the black that's not curing, so I doubt it's the lamps. Could be contamination in the ink... don't know for sure. As far as what's been done to the machine, no idea at all. I just "inherited" it two weeks ago with the new gig.

Now, it was purchased (used, obv) and moved to this location... a year-or-so ago, I think? And hm, I guess it's entirely possible that the issue with the black ink has been going on all this time. Really, I think I'm the first person who's attempted to do any kind of a tune-up on the beast since it was installed (see remarks above re: extraordinarily out-of-register print heads etc).

So, if it IS in fact the ink that's gone bad, do I just drop in a fresh box/bag/bottle/bucket (whatever you wanna call it... looks like a fountain Coke syrup pack to me!) and be done with it? Or are there remedial steps that must be taken due to the contamination? And for that matter, is there a way to determine if ink contamination is the problem, other than by changing the ink?

Thanks, look fwd to yr response.
-D-