thesignplace
New Member
I was wondering about the Roland FJ 50 that is converted to run solvent or Eco solvent inks, is this a good model for this? Anyone had any issues with these printers?
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Converting Roland FJ 50
- Thread starter thesignplace
- Start date
anozira02
New Member
I have converted several aqueous printers to solvent printing including Roland Fj-50 and 52 also a Cj-500 If you do it yourself will cost you less then $800. You do not have to change print lines and I did not even changed the print heads just flushed them out first with cleaning solution, after that I flushed it out with solvent cleaning solution. But for sure you will have to install new dampers and capping station and change out the pump that can handle eco solvent ink, on the regular aqueous ink pump the tubing will break down using solvent type ink in it. Make sure all your ink lines are flushed clean of any ink and blow air through the lines so that they are dry and ready to take solvent ink. One more thing..You really got to be pretty handy and able to do the conversion, there is a lot more to it then meet the eye....
thesignplace
New Member
The one i'm looking at has already been converted. I wondered if the print quality is good, if the machine is user friendly, if the color profiles where true. Any issues with converted machines i should know about
The FJ-50 uses the 90 nozzle heads from the Epson 3000. It can print well, if calibrated properly, but 720 DPI output (the minimum required for quality) runs slower than molasses in a Minnesota winter.
In other words, if you're just starting out, have no budget, and plenty of time, it could work for you. Otherwise, save a few grand and get a used ValueJet or newer entry-level Roland.
In other words, if you're just starting out, have no budget, and plenty of time, it could work for you. Otherwise, save a few grand and get a used ValueJet or newer entry-level Roland.
ccsign&graphics
New Member
If you are just starting out and not looking to spend alot of money or take
On lease payments. Then grab one. Just bear in mind they are not fast machines
Most parts are available and cheaper than their modern counterparts and you can
Maintain them yourself if you are mechanically inclined. You can save alot more
Money if you can convert one yourself.
On lease payments. Then grab one. Just bear in mind they are not fast machines
Most parts are available and cheaper than their modern counterparts and you can
Maintain them yourself if you are mechanically inclined. You can save alot more
Money if you can convert one yourself.
sfr table hockey
New Member
Same goes for any printer. If you have it aligned correct and the heads are good, calibration feed set proper, using proper profiles and good ink, all is good.
The FJ printers can print very nice as I have a FJ42 (still water based) along with a CJ500 (same print heads used) converted to solvent and one CJ500 still water based as well.
Profiles seem to be the biggest issue with solvent and I have made one for cast vinyl with Roland's EcoSol Max ink and it works well on many media for me. Best is always to have one for every media but there are times when one works well for many.
These older printers are easier to work on and I have done my own servicing since day one. Parts are getting more $$ for print heads and such but I am still on my first set of heads since my solvent conversion 3 years ago. The heads are showing a couple defections and drop outs on 3 colors but I still print 90% of my printing in fine 2 which with a full print you get about 25 sq ft per hour. Most banners 4 x 8 tend to take about an hour depending on how much is full print or just text.
I was getting a bit more banding and though the heads were on their way out but after finding that the feed calibration was out (needed the service menu to see that) the banding was gone. On a pattern test print (again service menu) you can see every nozzle that is missing as that test print will leave a gap on every missing head so it looks like faint banding, but when running prints, those don't show as much because most color you print is made up with several heads. If you print a solid 100% black and not use CMY to make up that black, you may notice banding in the black if your black head is in poor shape. Also the basic test print will show what's missing but realize it prints the same set of nozzles twice in the test print so if one jet is clogged you will see two missing in the test print and should line up in the same spot.
Biggest issue is can you work on your own printer. Tech help is hard to find on these printers as most Roland tech's won't know much about them because of the age of the printer.
The FJ printers can print very nice as I have a FJ42 (still water based) along with a CJ500 (same print heads used) converted to solvent and one CJ500 still water based as well.
Profiles seem to be the biggest issue with solvent and I have made one for cast vinyl with Roland's EcoSol Max ink and it works well on many media for me. Best is always to have one for every media but there are times when one works well for many.
These older printers are easier to work on and I have done my own servicing since day one. Parts are getting more $$ for print heads and such but I am still on my first set of heads since my solvent conversion 3 years ago. The heads are showing a couple defections and drop outs on 3 colors but I still print 90% of my printing in fine 2 which with a full print you get about 25 sq ft per hour. Most banners 4 x 8 tend to take about an hour depending on how much is full print or just text.
I was getting a bit more banding and though the heads were on their way out but after finding that the feed calibration was out (needed the service menu to see that) the banding was gone. On a pattern test print (again service menu) you can see every nozzle that is missing as that test print will leave a gap on every missing head so it looks like faint banding, but when running prints, those don't show as much because most color you print is made up with several heads. If you print a solid 100% black and not use CMY to make up that black, you may notice banding in the black if your black head is in poor shape. Also the basic test print will show what's missing but realize it prints the same set of nozzles twice in the test print so if one jet is clogged you will see two missing in the test print and should line up in the same spot.
Biggest issue is can you work on your own printer. Tech help is hard to find on these printers as most Roland tech's won't know much about them because of the age of the printer.