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Cutter or Router: Colex v Shop Sabre

Signed Out

New Member
Flatbed cutter or router table? Trying to decide between a shop sabre pro 10'x5' or colex sharpcut converyor 10'x5'. Completely different animals I know, trying to determine which would be better for me.

Shop sabre would be fitted with 5hp spindle 6 tool changer, optiscout, ecocam knife, 17 hp rotary vane vacuum pump, dust collection, popup pins, etc. So setup pretty similarly to a colex with it's 3 tool head. The colex is pretty stock, with the 3 hp spindle, oscillating knife, coro knife, kiss cutting knife, and their 6 pump vacuum system and their dust collection.. Cost wise I can save about 40k going the shop sabre route. Can also upgrade to a 10hp 12 tool changer spindle on the shop sabre for a few grand more.

What I'm looking to do? I have pretty consistent orders for runs of small aluminum signs quantities of (100) to (2,000), .040, .063, .080 with rounded corners and holes, printed vinyl stuck before cutting, typical size would be 8"x4", 10x7, 18x12. From my research vacuum hold down will be my biggest need for routering small signs from thin sheets as well as misting or cool air. In addition to the small aluminum signs, we also do a fair amount of die cut decals. We use our summa plotter and just cut through with more blade depth. Works good but on large orders it takes a lot of labor popping the decals out, seems it would be a huge time saver and more efficient to be doing these on a flatbed cutter. You have to just barley not cut all the way through on a plotter so they don't fall out and jam the pinch rollers while cutting..

Those would be my immediate wants out of a machine. The aluminum signs being a little higher on the list. But there is also opportunity to be had. We don't go after shape cut signs, currently but would like to offer them. Same for carved signs, we do them for good customers, but sub out and just do the install. So I'd like to bring that in house too. I like the idea of trimming printed wrap panels on a flatbed cutter, banners, posters, etc. We all know the possibilities with a router or a flatbed cutter.

So is there a machine that does well at both, routering and cutting/trimming? Will the colex handle routering these aluminum sign well enough? I did a colex demo, sent in my material to see how it handles small aluminum signs. The demo went well. They cut the signs face up, we talked about cutting the regis and flipping the sheet, but for demo sake they cut it face up. When I received the cut samples back you can see where some aluminum chips burn themselves into the laminate. I also notice the edges are super smooth on about half the sides of the signs and then some have a sort of smooth jaggediness to them. I don't know if that's because not enough vacuum with colex 6 little pumps? Or maybe it didn't get dialed in because it was a demo, or maybe it the lack of a misting or cool air option on the colex? The shop sabre has a misting option. The sample was only a 4'x2' piece of aluminum but I would hope it could hold a piece that size.. This has me a little concerned, but also everything seems to say the colex has a great finish when cutting acrylic so I'm not sure why the aluminum would cut like this? Would post a pic but you can't really see it in a pic, only feel it slightly. Maybe this is typical when cutting smaller parts? It's not anything that would fail quality inspection or anything. Just not consistent on all sides I guess.

With the shop sabre, I'm very confident I can cut the aluminum signs. And it's a more robust router with a much higher gantry clearance. I could really expand carved sign and other CNC offerings. What I'm not so sure about is if it's even worth fitting a shop sabre with the optiscout and tanginetiel/coro knifes. It doesn't seem to be shop sabres focus, print to cut, and the little info I can get from the internet suggests their workflow with the optiscout is not as smooth and easy as it is on the colex. And without the conveyor I don't think you can really do roll to roll. I just can't really find any good info on how well a shop sabre performs at kiss and die cutting decals, or trimming printed graphics, that kind of stuff.

-I also am considering the smaller summa flatbed cutter paired up with a used or cheaper router table, trying to keep under 100k for both. Summa flatbed for print/cut stuff, router table for the aluminum signs and carved stuff. But I'd much rather just get one machine, space and headache wise.

-

So anybody run either or both of these machines I'd love to hear your feedback. Is it worth fitting a shop sabre with optiscout and knives? How does the workflow compare to colex for print/cut? Does your colex like to do large runs of small thin aluminum signs with applied vinyl? Do you do much carved stuff on colex, wish you had more gantry clearance?
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Ok, I'll start by saying I don't have either machine I have a summa F1612. I would think the shop saber would be the best choice for cutting lots of aluminum because the conveyor on the colex would not allow you to use a mist when cutting.

as for decal through cutting, our summa F1612 does a good job of it, however no one ever tells you that unless you are standing at the machine pulling the decals off, you just end up with a mess of hundreds of decals and the waste matrix in the cutting basket that need to be sorted and bundled. it would be a better workflow to keep doing what you are doing and keep them in tact on a roll, which you can then move to a table to pop them out. Places like sticker mule that do thousands of decals a day do this.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
I'd ask a colex rep how long it would take to cut out a .080 12x18 with radius corners. For the shop sabre, it's between 30 seconds and a minute, depending on misting or not. I seriously have no clue how fast a colex will do it without a mister, but I've seen demo videos showing it cutting 080.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
It seems like a mister would make a mess? Might be quicker to shear aluminum if it has vinyl or print on it?
 

Signed Out

New Member
Ok, I'll start by saying I don't have either machine I have a summa F1612. I would think the shop saber would be the best choice for cutting lots of aluminum because the conveyor on the colex would not allow you to use a mist when cutting.

as for decal through cutting, our summa F1612 does a good job of it, however no one ever tells you that unless you are standing at the machine pulling the decals off, you just end up with a mess of hundreds of decals and the waste matrix in the cutting basket that need to be sorted and bundled. it would be a better workflow to keep doing what you are doing and keep them in tact on a roll, which you can then move to a table to pop them out. Places like sticker mule that do thousands of decals a day do this.

With the flatbed cutter, can't you let it cut a sheet (or what fits on the table) and just pull the big waste piece off in one shot, and then advance the conveyor letting the cut decals fall into a catch basket? I assumed you would loose a few of the table while pulling the waste off.. It's still gotta be easier and faster than popping them out by hand/

I've read this about sticker mule using 6 Graphtec cutters to do all their sticker cutting, hard to believe but interesting. I guess if you have enough of the same work on a consistent basis you can hire a team to just pop decals all day long like a revolving door.
 

Signed Out

New Member
It seems like a mister would make a mess? Might be quicker to shear aluminum if it has vinyl or print on it?
Good point here. My research tells me me a cool air "mister" works as good at cooling the bits as using lube. I've also seen some who are running 91% isopropyl alcohol instead of lube with great results. They claim the evaporation of the alcohol prevents sticking and making a mess and does excellent a cooling the bits. So I'd be using cool air or alcohol I believe.

Shear is how we do them now. I've been debating this for years.. Shearing is very easy, it's the corner rounding and hole punching. An order of 2,000 signs gets 8,000 holes and 8,000 corners. We have an air powered punch press for holes and corners but that's 16,000 hits for a 2,000 sign order. Time wise it takes us about 40 hrs to shear and punch corners/holes into a (2,000) 8"x4" sign order. Which isn't bad and quite profitable, but employees do not enjoy doing it and I don't enjoy replacing employees.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Good point here. My research tells me me a cool air "mister" works as good at cooling the bits as using lube. I've also seen some who are running 91% isopropyl alcohol instead of lube with great results. They claim the evaporation of the alcohol prevents sticking and making a mess and does excellent a cooling the bits. So I'd be using cool air or alcohol I believe.

Shear is how we do them now. I've been debating this for years.. Shearing is very easy, it's the corner rounding and hole punching. An order of 2,000 signs gets 8,000 holes and 8,000 corners. We have an air powered punch press for holes and corners but that's 16,000 hits for a 2,000 sign order. Time wise it takes us about 40 hrs to shear and punch corners/holes into a (2,000) 8"x4" sign order. Which isn't bad and quite profitable, but employees do not enjoy doing it and I don't enjoy replacing employees.
Have you looked into getting a custom die set made for a press that could hit the corners and holes in 1 shot or 1 whole side at a time? We looked at this a while back but never followed through.
 

Signed Out

New Member
I'd ask a colex rep how long it would take to cut out a .080 12x18 with radius corners. For the shop sabre, it's between 30 seconds and a minute, depending on misting or not. I seriously have no clue how fast a colex will do it without a mister, but I've seen demo videos showing it cutting 080.
For the demo they had me print the holes onto the signs and they used them for the reg marks (neat trick saves space) but it meant for the demo each sign had 4 reg marks. This added to the cutting time as it had to read all 4 marks each time. Setup this way the time to cut (1) 8"x4" .040" alum sign took 1 minute. This includes the 4 holes being cut, and all with 1/4" bit I belive but holes were 3/8" so some time saving there too. They said probably 45 seconds per sign if not reading the reg marks and using same size bit as holes.
 

Signed Out

New Member
Have you looked into getting a custom die set made for a press that could hit the corners and holes in 1 shot or 1 whole side at a time? We looked at this a while back but never followed through.
Yes a few years ago. About 4k for a set, but it's not adjustable. So you'd be locked into hole size/corner and distance from edge. So you either have to get a lot of combos or limit offerings. I tried to get them to figure an adjustable way, they said probably doable but then I just never really followed up.
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Ok, I'll start by saying I don't have either machine I have a summa F1612. I would think the shop saber would be the best choice for cutting lots of aluminum because the conveyor on the colex would not allow you to use a mist when cutting.

as for decal through cutting, our summa F1612 does a good job of it, however no one ever tells you that unless you are standing at the machine pulling the decals off, you just end up with a mess of hundreds of decals and the waste matrix in the cutting basket that need to be sorted and bundled. it would be a better workflow to keep doing what you are doing and keep them in tact on a roll, which you can then move to a table to pop them out. Places like sticker mule that do thousands of decals a day do this.
You could also get a cheap $200 takeup reel to lift up and collect the waste away neatly on a scrap roll. Assuming the cuts fall out freely and don't require someone to pop em loose.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Yes a few years ago. About 4k for a set, but it's not adjustable. So you'd be locked into hole size/corner and distance from edge. So you either have to get a lot of combos or limit offerings. I tried to get them to figure an adjustable way, they said probably doable but then I just never really followed up.
We try to limit sizes as much as possible. It makes ganging and shearing faster when they're all inline and butted. Not exactly a perfect solution. I had figured on using 2 individual corner dies with a hole punch offset from it and set that on some sort of variable mount to move them in our out depending on the width. It'd be pretty quick on a clutch style punch press.
 

Signed Out

New Member
We try to limit sizes as much as possible. It makes ganging and shearing faster when they're all inline and butted. Not exactly a perfect solution. I had figured on using 2 individual corner dies with a hole punch offset from it and set that on some sort of variable mount to move them in our out depending on the width. It'd be pretty quick on a clutch style punch press.
It's doable, but 10k later and you're still doing a lot of human labor and still only able to cut straight lines.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
hire a team to just pop decals all day long
I mean, with such a low skill position, you could fill it with temps that never come back day in and out. Prolly find a couple of tweakers who would love nothing better in the churn of temps.

I still think you're really wanting/needing two different machines. Take a look at what's most profitable that you already sell, buy that machine, then start banking on the next machine.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I mean, with such a low skill position, you could fill it with temps that never come back day in and out. Prolly find a couple of tweakers who would love nothing better in the churn of temps.
You could make some extra money betting on how many fingers each new tweaker loses before lunchtime.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
You could also get a cheap $200 takeup reel to lift up and collect the waste away neatly on a scrap roll. Assuming the cuts fall out freely and don't require someone to pop em loose.
The decals don't usually fall out freely, they are cut all the way through and pop out with a very soft touch, but I think the paper fibers in the backer paper kind of interlock around the cut and hold them in place just enough to not fall out, but not well enough to carry the whole sheet to a work table.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
You could make some extra money betting on how many fingers each new tweaker loses before lunchtime.
This is more of a daily pool situation though, no? With better odds on stuff like pinkies, both knuckles, or doubles. No fingers lost for the day just feeds tomorrows pot.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
This is more of a daily pool situation though, no? With better odds on stuff like pinkies, both knuckles, or doubles. No fingers lost for the day just feeds tomorrows pot.
Like the Powerball? How much money needs to be in the pot before someone bets against themselves and cuts off their own finger? The left hand doesn't count either.
 

Pauly

Printrade.com.au
Are you talking about normal Aluminium or Aluminium composite?

If it's aluminium (not composite) i would be looking at the shop sabre pro. Not that the colex can't do it, it's more the fact you're doing a lot of volume and that would suite a proper router.
The colex can do the job, but the sabre would be faster.
Because the colex has the belt, and if you're cutting aluminium, you'll be doing it on top of the sacrificial mat, which means you cannot advance it forward.
The vacuum is quite powerful, but i don't think it would have been dialled in properly.
Also means aluminium will get stuck to it.

if it's ACM, then id use the colex.
 
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