Suggestions Cutting .04 aluminum

[bpp]

I print and cut a lot of .04 aluminum. My worker sands down all the edges he says he's scared it's sharp and people may cut themselves. Is this necessary? It's extremely time consuming cutting and sanding 200 pieces. All advise appreciated.

Thanks

 

[netsol]

go on ebay and buy a used fletcher 2100

 

[ikarasu]

What bit are you using? And what CNC?

With the right it the edges should be fine.... Our edges only get jagged or sharp if our bits dull, or if the aluminum isn't being held down right and vibrating.... Then it needs sanding. But generally, no, you don't need to sand aluminum down

 

[GAC05]

We use one of these when we rip aluminum blanks with our table saw. Low-tech, low cost, but one or two swipes and the edges are clean.

 

[bpp]

What bit are you using? And what CNC?

With the right it the edges should be fine.... Our edges only get jagged or sharp if our bits dull, or if the aluminum isn't being held down right and vibrating.... Then it needs sanding. But generally, no, you don't need to sand aluminum down

I have the colex and use the 530 4mm bit. What about the paint is that normal that it stays on the edge and needs to be wiped off? Like stuck on but comes off by pinching a rag along the edge

 

[James Burke]

Get a tool especially for deburring the edges of sheet metal. It'll only take a few seconds to use compared to sand paper. The other style deburring tools are primarily designed for deburring holes, and they usually dig in on the edges of sheet stock.

JB

https://www.amazon.com/Noga-DB1000-Sheet-Metal-Deburring/dp/B0007Q1RS6/ref=asc_df_B0007Q1RS6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312686067785&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17509273087245648743&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017389&hvtargid=pla-442961916958&psc=1

 

[Terrance the Deuce]

I have the same issue with the colex and .040. Even with a new bit it is often inconsistent and at the least we need to wipe paint flakes off the edges. I have tried tons of different combos of bits and settings.

 

[gnubler]

Deburring tool now on my shopping list. Good for smoothing the edges of ACM also which often gets a sharp edge after cutting.

 

[bpp]

Deburring tool now on my shopping list. Good for smoothing the edges of ACM also which often gets a sharp edge after cutting.

Yeah, I ordered both of the recommendations above and will test them
Here is the same a bit cheaper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088LZKFFN

 

[GAC05]

I've been using the single-edged one from the time I was in a friend's glass shop and watched them ripping 10ft long aluminum extrusions on a table saw - then running the deburring tool down the cut edges in single passes.
With the burs gone, I could slide my thumb down the edge like it was a smooth factory edge (no blood).
I didn't know about the double-sided tool, looks like it would be worth a try.

 

[gnubler]

With the burs gone, I could slide my thumb down the edge like it was a smooth factory edge (no blood).

Sounds like you need that bloodbath car wrap featured in another thread.

 

[Aaron Hunter]

For pre-painted aluminum use a downcut bit and turn your bit rotation to counter clockwise. Should get better edge quality overall.

 

[JstevensonPrints]

Deburring tool now on my shopping list. Good for smoothing the edges of ACM also which often gets a sharp edge after cutting.

you shouldn’t ever need a debur off acm when using the proper but, we had Jim from Tritec out not long ago for advanced training and were able to see what a difference but selection makes. I’d reach out to those guys

 

[somcalmetim]

If you are cutting straight lines go buy yourself a hand held metal shear for aluminum sheet or ACP...
it makes no dust, cuts faster than a table saw...its like heavy duty 3 bladed scissors that takes a 1/4" potato-fry cut out of middle when it cuts but crimps both edges and doesnt warp material...if you use thicker than 3-4mm material get a Concrete Shear (same thing but hairier)

Like

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-6-8-amp-18-gauge-shear/1000524195

or

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/makita-fibre-cement-board-shear/1000777165?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D25T_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_PLA_Power-Tools_Power%20Tools__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-558122111691&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpompBhDZARIsAFD_Fp_ZjJp8APNSJRgip73wb7yn3waOwBSTSd68Ux28O9MomxjwwdsvhQ4aAp2cEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You will never rip acp with table saw again...I just clamp a straight board to acp for guide right now but next bigger ACP job I get am going to rig up a table-saw-ish jig for it...should be able to rig up a mount and some sort of fence easy enough...also cuts large curves if you need them with smooth edges...available in in battery, electric or air powered...

Game changer for ACP that is a great material but wicked sharp if saw cut...even if you are CNCing and this advice doesnt apply specifically...if you work with ACP a metal or concrete shear is a MUST...NO MORE ACP DUST!

 

[Vassago]

For pre-painted aluminum use a downcut bit and turn your bit rotation to counter clockwise. Should get better edge quality overall.

You always keep the same rotation direction for down cut tools.. Reversing direction would cause rubbing and lifting rather than cutting and pushing the material down.

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

I have the colex and use the 530 4mm bit. What about the paint is that normal that it stays on the edge and needs to be wiped off? Like stuck on but comes off by pinching a rag along the edge

What are your settings? I prefer a 532 6mm bit, when the cut allows a larger bit. Seems to last much longer and give a cleaner cut.
These settings work best for me:
Spindle Speed - 11,000
Plunge - 13
Feed - 28
Max depth per pass - 0.060
Clockwise cut(climbing)

Assuming the bit is in good shape, I never have to debur or sand the edges. The most finishing I ever have to do is run a knife along the edge to get rid of excess laminate, unless I needed bridges, naturally.

 

[Stacey K]

Get a tool especially for deburring the edges of sheet metal. It'll only take a few seconds to use compared to sand paper. The other style deburring tools are primarily designed for deburring holes, and they usually dig in on the edges of sheet stock.

JB

View attachment 166579

https://www.amazon.com/Noga-DB1000-Sheet-Metal-Deburring/dp/B0007Q1RS6/ref=asc_df_B0007Q1RS6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312686067785&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17509273087245648743&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017389&hvtargid=pla-442961916958&psc=1

Ordered! Thanks for the link!

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

Ordered! Thanks for the link!

Have you tried the settings I suggested?

You should not need to remove any burr from the edge if you are using the right settings.

Try what I suggested with a new bit. I suspect you will have no need for your newly acquired tool.

EDIT: Posted this on another unrelated thread and just realized it can show you what you should expect.

There was absolutely no finishing of those signs(other than the bridges). All edges were clean and smooth.

 

[Creative Sign Guy(s)]

What bit are you using? And what CNC?

With the right it the edges should be fine.... Our edges only get jagged or sharp if our bits dull, or if the aluminum isn't being held down right and vibrating.... Then it needs sanding. But generally, no, you don't need to sand aluminum down

It seems your and my sound advice has gone unheeded.

Their loss, I suppose.