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Cutting Alumalite

k_graham

New Member
Hi Artbot;

I can see you really endorse the Festool on items requiring cutting with a saw. Have you seen the Eurekazone track and considered it with a good saw?

Also do you use or recommend anything for lighter substrates where a saw may be overkill?

Like Coroplast, Foam Board Gatorboard etc.

Thanks, Ken
 

omgsideburns

New Member
The fletcher won't cut all the way through it.. not without several passes. You can score and pop it, then cut the other face if you have to do it that way. I prefer cutting it with a table saw, panel saw, etc. Dust is easier to clean up than PVC dust too.
 

artbot

New Member
a tracksaw also works really well on super lightweight substrates. i often use it to cut wood veneer because it acts like giant scissors. also cut thin polycarb, petg, ....all things thin are not difficult to cut regardless of the floppiness of the material.
 

Mosh

New Member
I use a vertical panel saw with a 75 tooth blade....To be honest I quit using aluma-junk and only use poly-metal now, way better material, less chance of damage. Aluma-junk dents if you look at it wrong.
 

TXFB.INS

New Member
I use a vertical panel saw with a 75 tooth blade....To be honest I quit using aluma-junk and only use poly-metal now, way better material, less chance of damage. Aluma-junk dents if you look at it wrong.

+1 plus those flute are notorious for collecting debris
 

Tom Dalton

New Member
The Fletcher Titan FSC cuts aluminum composites.

See... this item, but it is expensive. So, I'd use a saw until you find yourself cutting a lot of Alumalite.

-Tom
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
The Fletcher Titan FSC cuts aluminum composites.

See... this item, but it is expensive. So, I'd use a saw until you find yourself cutting a lot of Alumalite.

-Tom


That's the one we have and it is beautiful to use. If you keep the laser in line, it's even easier. We also have a KeenCut 124" Evolution which is fantastic.
 

Mosh

New Member
boy, to own a panel saw........YOU GOTA CUT A LOT OF PANELS.... to make it pay for itself.

Like 600...that is only 11 cuts a week for a year, just over two cuts a day....you must not do many signs Ol' Paint.

I am suprised you didn't tell him to use a crosscut hand saw....LOL
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
boy, to own a panel saw........YOU GOTA CUT A LOT OF PANELS.... to make it pay for itself.
ALUMILITE......all you really need is a clamp on straight edge from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html
and buy a RYOBIE 5" lithium battery skill saw. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18...h-Laser-Tool-Only-P506/100052548#.UoKPlxywWpI
and get the fine toothed blade for it!!!



Haha..... that's like saying to get from point a to point b, ya only need a bicycle, why buy a car ?? :Sleeping:


Gotta look at the forest through the trees. It will pay itself off quickly and probably allow you to cut so many substrates and so quickly, that you'll be leaving your competition in the dust after it's paid for. :thumb:
 

neil_se

New Member
We use a treadle guillotine for cuts under 51" wide - it's quick, leaves no mess and gives a perfect edge. Above that we'd either hand-cut to crops or pre-cut the sheet on our 5x10' router. We've got a Fletcher-type vertical cutter with ACP cutting wheels but the guillotine is much better for a number of reasons.
 

Salmoneye

New Member
+1 to Artbot and the track saw. I will never use a panel saw again. Never tried the festool but my dewalt cordless is amazing. I can even take it on installs and if a panel need an 1/8th of an inch taken off... no problem. I really can't say enough about the clean cuts, no kickbacks and nat's *** accuracy. The only time my table saw gets used anymore is for small repeat cuts etc. Mine was super inexpensive on ebay too.
 

nashvillesigns

Making America great, one sign at a time.
cheap saw needed.

this post smells trolly.
even off craigslist, a twenty year old craftsman saw for 10 bucks, a BRAND NEW 60 tooth carbine blade would work for short money.
i picked today to leave my Broad Axe at home.
-mosher
 

artbot

New Member
i think the best thing about the track saw is trimming printed panels. for flatbed work you can guarantee that you'll have the print always in the exact same spot, or perrrrrrfectly square. by printing trim marks, you can print and not worry about the perfection. this is what counts the most to me. tracksaws cut to the zero mark. you set your track on the line and cut, no offset measurements. this also means track saws don't depend on a fence to maintain square so you can cut the around the print regardless of the oblique line or a skew. fences on table saws force an often unwanted parallel cut, the plumb/square needed to get a sheet trimmed in a panel saw doesn't work either, and the offset needed to get the blade in the right place with an after market fence make all these other options inferior plus none of these saws can cut as smoothly leaving a perfect edge especially on sheets with delicate coatings and laminate. if you need to cut an oblique 1/8" off of the edge of a mounted or printed panel, that would be a doozy except for with a tracksaw, it's like using a giant pair of scissors. there is no holding your breath that you don't jog the sheet just slightly and mess up the cut. often times, i'm having a side conversation while doing these critical cuts because you just can't mess them up. panels saws are great for knocking down basic square cuts, tables saws are great for repeating cuts (unless they are really big/long cuts then the track saw is better), track saws are great for precision trimming. i've had all three cutting options in my shop and in the end, you see the panel saw getting the least use, then the table saw, and the track saw being used the most often.
 
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