Question Cutting sandblast mask with Graphtec CE5000-60

[amy s.]

I'm getting ready to try cutting sandblast mask with my CE5000-60. I know about using a 1.5 mm, 60 deg blade and the red tip blade holder and turning on Tangential Emulation. Does anyone have consistent success with cutting mask who can give me tips on how they do it before I plunge into this?

Is there a less expensive source for the blade than Graphtec that would be comparable. Thanks for any help.

 

[ikarasu]

Search eBay for cb15u blades. They're cheap... Probably won't last asong, especially with sandblast material, but at 1/100 the price it's worth it. Uscutter is a bit more expensive, but they have better blades...still way cheaper than OEM blades.


I've never cut sandblast before... But I was under the assumption you needed an FC series to cut that thick of a material.

I'd try doing 2 pass instead of 1, and from my quick Google search I read you shouldn't use tangential emulation on sandblast... But again, I've never cut it so I couldn't say for sure.

 

[amy s.]

Search eBay for cb15u blades. They're cheap... Probably won't last asong, especially with sandblast material, but at 1/100 the price it's worth it. Uscutter is a bit more expensive, but they have better blades...still way cheaper than OEM blades.


I've never cut sandblast before... But I was under the assumption you needed an FC series to cut that thick of a material.

I'd try doing 2 pass instead of 1, and from my quick Google search I read you shouldn't use tangential emulation on sandblast... But again, I've never cut it so I couldn't say for sure.

Thanks a million for your suggestions.

 

[asd]

I don't have a graphtec, but my sp540 can cut it at 290 grams of force and going at 5 inches per second

 

[asd]

with a 60 degree blade

 

[Joe House]

Doing occasional sand blast on your CE is probably ok, but if you do a bunch of it, step up to an FC plotter. I had a customer get started in the monument business with a CE plotter and it only lasted them a year before they had to replace it.
As far as blades, stick with the Graphtec ones. They cost more and they're worth it. As far as settings go, test, test test. But send a larger test job from your computer. The triangle in the square is ok for vinyl, but too small for sandblast stencil. Go slow, keep quality (or acceleration) at 1 and use tangential emulation. The force will depend on which stencil you're actually using, so... test, test, test.

 

[JimmyG]

I have cut many feet in the past with my ce3000-60 using the 15u 60 and 45 degrees, 60 for smaller copy. I also specificaly use Anchor brand [HASHTAG]#153[/HASHTAG] & [HASHTAG]#155[/HASHTAG] with the clear edge strip for your plotter wheels to roll on. I didn't have good results with Hartco but over the years it may have improved. I have blasted redwood & cedar signs since 1972 and began plotter cutting my stencil in 1990 with a Roland Camm1. So the best suggestion I can give is this:
Anchor 33 mil material is heavy and when run like normal vinyl can put excess drag on your plotter feed gears and cause feed gear safety ratchet striping on your plotter. So, I set up temporary "feed tables" on the front and back of my plotter that is level to the plotter platen on both sides. I cut the Anchor material to plot length with lettering ganged as much as possible. When I start the plot on the rear table I fold or roll the excess material and unfold or unroll as the plot progresses. Being level with the platen, the weight drag is reduced to hardly none and the plotter will cut flawlessly without any skips or stripped gears. For my temporary tables I use "X" type stage piano stands that cost $20 each with smooth plywood for the table tops...All this "table setup" stores neatly away, or gets used as temp tables on job site installs.
Try it....you will surely see the advantage.

 

[JimmyG]

Oh, the 2 pass method is Not a good idea at all because of the weight of the material, even with my table method, it can cause a slight "drifting" thru the pinch rollers.
I would have to check my pressure settings, I think I was close to maximum pressure, as with the Graphtec you can save your best settings as a preset with the 15U blade. Do some sample tests for best cuts and weeding results and create your preset in the plotter menu. Wipe the stencil clean with a damp cloth before you do the plot run. Anchor stencil has a white powder on the surface.
I always weed after plotting for blasted background signs and use 2-3 layers of high-tac application tape and cut stencil apart close to the lettering (hence ganging lettering for least amount of waste). I apply stencil to sign face with top or bottom hinge method using 3-4 strips of full length masking tape to prevent misalignment.
For "in blasted monument face" type signs I use a couple layers of duct tape thru the lettering to hold the letter centers in place, and then apllication tape to help keep the stencil from stretching when applied to surface.

 

[mfatty500]

I used to use Hartco 425 with my CE 5000, all the time for making rhinestone templates, I used a cb09u blade doing 2 passes with a 60* blade. Doing 3mm & smaller holes. Never a problem.