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Need Help Deep contours on wraps

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by bayviewsignworks, Aug 7, 2020.

  1. We're using 3m ij180cv3-10 gloss with 3M 8518 gloss laminate. Especially with the new vans and the rear side panel contours we're getting lifting after we've delivered the job. We use the 3M liquid (twice) before getting as close as we can before using heat. Using hand/finger/squeegee or a 3M contour roller we still get some lifting. We've decided to cut the job from now on after it's done.

    Spectrum internet/cable trucks I've seen have a perfectly cut area right on the horizon edge that could not be done by hand-how did they do that??

    I'm wondering if they put down a knifeless tape; but with two wires 1/8th inch apart? I haven't seen that product.

    Anyone have any other suggestions?
     
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  2. MikePro

    MikePro Major Contributor

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    pics to confirm, but most likely used knifeless tape.
    it comes in 1/8" sizes, so in theory you could run a line of tape and then run a matching line alongside it.

    for me, i start with the deep grooves, unstretched...just tucked. once you make the turn, you can stretch a bit to get the bacon-collar back to a straight light and then continue wrapping outward.
     
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  3. SIGNSOURCEAMERICA.COM

    SIGNSOURCEAMERICA.COM New Member

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    The www.Wrapinstitute.com is an awesome resource for ANY wrap related issue.
     
  4. signman315

    signman315 Signmaker

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    Tuck everything you can and heat it to establish a clean line again after the channel and if you have to stretch into a channel do it in a way that you are "pushing" the vinyl into the channel giving it as much material as possible. Prime the channels with primer 94 and if still getting issues relief cut it. But if tucked/stretched properly and primed it shouldn't lift.
     
  5. Jester1167

    Jester1167 Very Active Member

    Switch to Avery and make sure you leave an 8" gap. Focus the heat (which is where the stretch will come from) away from the indentation you are trying to tuck it into.

    Avery can conform without failure with this method. With 3M, the stars have to align for it to work. and if it does the overlap seams will still probably fail in a year or so. If you have to use 3M, cut it with knifeless, and drop it in.
     
  6. Bubba06

    Bubba06 Just Somebody

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    If the problem you are describing is what I think it is, this may help.

    Dont heat and stretch on the crease. Stretching is what causes you to lose adhesion.
    You want to heat and stretch where you can spread it over a bigger area, not that small crease.
     

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  7. Thanks for replies. Will ry all - including Avery, which one?
     
  8. jfiscus

    jfiscus Map Wraster

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    Don't switch vinyls, just get some more training. I know personally I can't do what the better installers here can do and I gladly admit it.

    The cuts you're talking about are just made by good/steady installers, so are the wraps that don't lift out of the deeper recesses.
    Spend the money and get to the 3M wrap certification class, you'll learn a lot there about how/where/why of working the vinyl. In the end some installers can do both without any issue and others can't.
     
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  9. Bly

    Bly Very Active Member

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  10. Thanks all. We'll probably do a mix of all of these. We def ned more training but i think with a few helpful videos we'll get by.
     
  11. Behrmon

    Behrmon Pr. Bear-Mon

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    Wrap institute for training, maybe try 3M 480 (it’s better!), Post Heat Post Heat, Post Heat. :)
     
  12. XtremeXccessories

    XtremeXccessories Member

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    Like others have said, heat the flat area and work, don't stretch, into the recess. And as Behrmon said, post heat, post heat, post heat. To the correct temperature, use an infrared thermometer. Also keep in mind that overlaps need to be post heated to a slightly higher temperature than normal, I think 220° is what Avery recommends.
     
  13. rydods

    rydods Member

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    With Avery 1105 make sure to use 1460 overlam. It's better for these deep recessed areas.
     
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