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Dimensional letters thickness vs height vs distance

gnubler

Active Member
I'm looking for some tips and good rules of thumb regarding dimensional letters pros and cons, in particular flat acrylic/PVC letters but this applies to other materials as well. Curious about material thickness vs letter height, and the letters looking too flat depending on their distance/angle/height up on a wall.

As an example, I'm quoting a job for 10" letters mounted 12-15 feet up on a building and the customer requested 3/16" thick acrylic (presumably to save money). I feel like that's too thin to have any dimension or profile and am steering them towards 1/2 inch to one inch thick. I know post mounted letters can have spacers/standoffs, but if it's too much they can cast shadows at certain times and possibly look odd.

Any other considerations to make? Like dealing with birds hanging out on the letters, shadows being cast depending on which direction the letters face, etc.

I'm a novice with this type of signage and will deal with installation techniques separately, right now I'm just focused on making the best recommendations to my customer. All comments are appreciated.
 

2B

Active Member
The method of installation will directly determine the type of material and the thickness

Birds will roost on pretty much anything they can get the claws onto
* The deeper the letter, the more likely they will nest inside a letter (D, P, O, R) etc....
 

gnubler

Active Member
Thank you, Sign Masters.

2B - by method of installation are you referring to flush mount vs spaced?
 

2B

Active Member
Thank you, Sign Masters.

2B - by method of installation are you referring to flush mount vs spaced?

That, along with:
* RACEWAY vs INDIVIDUAL
* Flat (smooth) surface vs Texture surface
* Hollow (R-panel sheeting) vs Solid
* Brick, Stone, EIFS, Facade, ETC...
* Municode criteria
* Landlord approval
 

gnubler

Active Member
Yes indeed, I knew there was more coming...

I mentioned a few of those items to my customer so she understands why I can't just whip out a price instantly. It appears I need to do a bit more research before putting a firm quote together, though. Thank you for that list, anything else to consider as related to the material thickness? I'm going to quote two options.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
It's a fine balance, I've had clients insist on having 1" thick letters 5" tall and it makes them impossible to read from any angle except straight on. And others that go so thin they may as well just do cut vinyl.
 

The Hobbyist

New Member
I would not cut thick 10" letters out of PVC. That is a lawsuit waiting to happen, when one of the letters falls onto someone's head. Use 10 lb. SIGN FOAM and cut the letters as thick as you want.

Joe
 

Billct2

Active Member
(Hobbyist, I think it's 10" tall not thick)
Canuck mentions an issue I have occasionally, letters being too thick. They can be illegible unless spaced apart.
3/16" is ok at 10", though I prefer 1/4". With mounting blocks they have a nice dimension.
One other thing I usually hate is flush mounting, without some space they collect dirt and have streaks running down under them.
 

The Hobbyist

New Member
(Hobbyist, I think it's 10" tall not thick)
Canuck mentions an issue I have occasionally, letters being too thick. They can be illegible unless spaced apart.
3/16" is ok at 10", though I prefer 1/4". With mounting blocks they have a nice dimension.
One other thing I usually hate is flush mounting, without some space they collect dirt and have streaks running down under them.


Right. I said "thick 10" letters" meaning 10" tall by (n) thickness. If you use a thin acrylic face on foam letters, you can get the gloss face finish and still keep the letters lightweight. The HDU foam (SIGN FOAM) behind the letters would give them the volume, without the weight.

Joe
 

visual800

Active Member
I would quote them on 3/16" thick and then 1/2" thick, a 10" tall letter can be made out of foam, pvc or acrylic. There is nothing wrong with using any of these products.
12ft to 15ft up in the air needs at LEAST 1/2" thick material to even look decent. 3/16 would look cheap and cheesy
 

gnubler

Active Member
Hobbyist - I was enjoying the government manual from 1983 until they got into Rainman-level math equations and such. Where the heck did you find that?

Your other link about dimensional signage was pretty interesting, thank you. Saved for reference.

Found another forum thread from 2019 with some specific information about material thickness: https://www.signs101.com/threads/dimensional-letters-outside-thickness-material.154808/

James Burke made a post about west-facing letters he did, and went with 1/2" thick bronze. One of the jobs I'm bidding for is a west-facing wall 15 feet up, and I want to give the customer a couple options to compare costs.

Another question: Are there any pros/cons regarding flat cut acrylic that is pigmented vs painted? Using Gemini as an example, I don't see a price difference between the two, other than a minor upcharge for painting Pantone matches. Is there any difference in the appearance of outdoor acrylic that's pigmented vs painted, after years in the elements?
 

visual800

Active Member

lol sweet mother of God how I love anything from the govt trying to explain something.

IMO there is no set way to absolutely nail a proper distance vs height vs thickness vs color. These days the best thing we have is digital. We can take a pic and super impose the lettering height and color on a building an show a client exactly how it will look. So take all these guides and delete them off the computer, they are outdated BS.
 

visual800

Active Member
Another question: Are there any pros/cons regarding flat cut acrylic that is pigmented vs painted? Using Gemini as an example, I don't see a price difference between the two, other than a minor upcharge for painting Pantone matches. Is there any difference in the appearance of outdoor acrylic that's pigmented vs painted, after years in the elements?

acrylic over time will lose its gloss, 1/4" thick and up will hold its own as far as longevity vs 1/8" thick which you have no business using anyway. if you could paint the letter with latex I think it would hold out better than the factory finish. some are painted with mathews and after a while that going to fade
 

Medina Signs

Old Member
Al else considered and there were many good suggestions - try to design in terms of scale - the taller the letter/graphic, the bigger the overall size - maybe increase the material depth to keep thing in scale.
 

The Hobbyist

New Member
Hobbyist - I was enjoying the government manual from 1983 until they got into Rainman-level math equations and such. Where the heck did you find that?

Your other link about dimensional signage was pretty interesting, thank you. Saved for reference.

Found another forum thread from 2019 with some specific information about material thickness: https://www.signs101.com/threads/dimensional-letters-outside-thickness-material.154808/

James Burke made a post about west-facing letters he did, and went with 1/2" thick bronze. One of the jobs I'm bidding for is a west-facing wall 15 feet up, and I want to give the customer a couple options to compare costs.

Another question: Are there any pros/cons regarding flat cut acrylic that is pigmented vs painted? Using Gemini as an example, I don't see a price difference between the two, other than a minor upcharge for painting Pantone matches. Is there any difference in the appearance of outdoor acrylic that's pigmented vs painted, after years in the elements?

I am flattered, that you might presume I have some knowledge on this topic, based on my previous responses. I really do not. I just went in search of information that does not require me to reinvent the wheel. People have already done studies to try to determine the best READABILITY guesstimates for various letters based on size, color and contrast, FONT (Type Face) etc.

The government DATA is typical of the source, full of complex formulas and charts and schedules, but it does not really answer the simple question in the end. However, you can be assured that the DATA probably cost a fortune to publish.

Oddly, I did NOT find any helpful information about the readability of text from an angle, such as looking up at extruded lettering mounted high over your head. All of the sign readability studies seem to focus on SIZE AT DISTANCE and COLOR CONTRAST, etc. looking straight at the alphanumeric characters.

What little I know about signage can be summed up by watching the old Westerns on TV. A sign MUST convey it's message message in a flash. People are not going to stop to read the sign, to determine the nature of the business behind it. This is why every small town in the Old West used simple signs that clearly and immediately tell the casual observer exactly WHAT business is conducted there...

SALOON ... BANK ... LIVERY ... HOTEL ... CASINO ... UNDERTAKER ... BLACKSMITH ... SCHOOL ... DOCTOR ... CEMETERY ...

I don't know when signs began to become more descriptive. A business may have a clever name, and even a catchy LOGO, but if people don't IMMEDIATELY know what the business is, they will not remember it, and they probably will not make a note of it.

Example: You have Lowe's, and Home Depot, and Ace Hardware, and Mailboxes, ETC., and a dozen other places in your town where you can probably have a copy of a key made, right? But if I were to ask you, "Where can I go to get a copy of a key made?" your mind is immediately going to pull up the image of that old FOTOMAT BOOTH on the corner, the one with the MASSIVE SIGNS on all four sides that read, "KEYS" with the old retired locksmith sitting inside. You will not be able to tell me the name of the business, or the name of the owner, or even the address. You will only say, "go to that bright blue booth structure in the parking lot across from the CVS..." Your mind made a note of the place that makes KEYS, but the other details are sketchy.

When you roll into a town and you have a taste for Mexican food, you don't look for a sign that reads, "Mama Gonzales's Authentic South-of-the-Border Mexican Cuisine" You pull into the parking lot of the place that has a huge TACOS - BURRITOS sign. Our brains are wired that way.


I have lived here over ten years. So as it happened, I had an ingrown toenail that was killing me. I do not have a regular doctor, or even health insurance. I instinctively drove to the place where I had seen the sign that reads, "URGENT CARE CLINIC" but they did not offer this particular service. The NAME of the place was FAST PACE but I never caught that.

They referred me to a walk-in medical clinic in Bowling Green. I looked up the address and drove up there. I SWEAR I had driven past this place at least a few hundred times over the years, but I NEVER made a mental note of it being a "Doc-In-The Box" Oh sure, the building was beautiful. The parking lot was expansive. The trees and bushes around the place were all manicured. But all of this time, I had ASSUMED it was either a CONVALESCENT HOME or a SENIOR LIVING CENTER, or maybe a high end HEALTH SPA. The huge sign with the fancy script font and the LOGO gave little indication of it being a full service WALK-IN medical facility! If I had to send someone to a place in an emergency, this place would NEVER have entered my mind.

So the moral of this wordy post is that, any sign is only a good sign if it makes an immediate and lasting impression on the observer.

Tell me something ... What is the NAME of the business in your town, where you go to get APPLIANCE REPAIR? Chances are, you don't know the name of the business, regardless of how fancy the sign is, or how snazzy the LOGO is. But you do know that this is where you will take your broken vacuum cleaner.

After a long drive, when you are nodding off and fighting the fatigue, you are not looking for a colorful sign that reads, "Free Continental Breakfast" or "Free HBO in Every Room" You are looking for HOTEL or MOTEL.

Joe



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