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Do seams on perforated vinyl hold up well?

0igo

New Member
So I've installed a lot of perforated signs but never on a window that was bigger than the width of the vinyl. My vinyl roll is 5ft and the window I will be applying the vinyl is 74in tall x 96in wide. Does a seam on perforated vinyl hold up well or does it start to curl back? I'm thinking of making seem horizontal instead of vertical, will that be a problem?

Ps. Vinyl will not be laminated
 

Modern Ink Signs

Premium Subscriber
Use 3M edge seal tape on your seams and on the edges.

Just like a vehicle wrap. Cut the outside back 1/8".

YOU HAVE TO SEAL THE EDGES!
 

ikarasu

Active Member
How long will the sign be up? Weve done it before.

We do horizontal... Vertical looks bad. Just make sure to overlap the bottom piece, that way rain won't sit in the edge and cause it to peel. We don't use edge tape.. though we do laminate, our graphics sit for 3-4 months then get replaced with a new marketing campaign. Haven't seen a sign of peeling in them 3-4 month windows though.
 

bannertime

Active Member
Horizontal seams work great. Like ikarasu said, make sure to lay the top over the bottom. We use anywhere from a 1/8" to 1/4" seam with no problems.

My window cleaner runs over some seamed and contour cut window perf graphics on my windows, the edges are still fine. One has been on for almost 2 years, it's slightly faded, but it's lasted well beyond it's manufacture suggestion. None of it is laminated.
 

TXFB.INS

New Member
the horizontal seam does the best, overlay the top onto the bottom.

we also found that putting knifeless tape down and then doing the seams so they are butted up and then taking a thin strip of lamination on top of the butt seam for the added protection
 

MikePro

New Member
edited: oops, redundant, as already mentioned to butt-seam and overlap with the edge seal tape. buuuut i'll leave my elaborated version up anyways :)
(edge seal tape is just optically clear overlam cut down to rolls. I just cut my own, out of whatever laminate I'm using for the print)
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i would be printing on perf, laminating with glossy optically clear, tiling per usual with overlaps, and single-cut through my overlap before peeling-off trimmed parts for zero-overlap-tiling (buttseam).
cover seam with 1/2" strip of glossy optically clear, or "edge seal tape", and you're good to go.
extra points if anal-enough to match up perf pattern, but at that scale I doubt it would be too visually annoying.
 
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