Don't treat it badly

[bipedaliferous]

Hello all,

I am new to this forum in addition to being fairly new to hand made signs. Lots of great topics and information! I have a question about a project I am working on and want to make sure I learn the proper techniques and procedures.

I am fabricating a sign for a farm stand that will be used outside often, but not permanently. I am using cedar for the surface and would like to know recommendations for treatment, if any, since there will be artwork painted on it. Since it is actual art in addition to lettering, I will be using acrylic "latex" paint to mix colors (unless you suggest something better) for the art.

I would like the wood to be in it's most natural looking state, and all the research I have done thus far has had many different opinions on what to use or not use on outdoor signs. Penetrating wood sealer? Varnish? Wax? Nothing?

Should I be concerned with protection of the paints?

I want to make sure I get this right, because I do not want to learn the wrong way. There seems to be too much of that going around.

I appreciate and look forward to your input.

 

[nwsigns]

keeping a clear wood look is a never ending battle but there are 2 basic options.

1. Varnish - will give you a little bit more mileage before your first maintenance but then its a complete strip and redo, no fun.

2. Oils - This would be my choice, it will need yearly maintenance but pretty easy since you can simply clean and recoat right over the existing finish.

 

[SignManiac]

Do not attempt to paint anything on top of wax.

 

[SignManiac]

Cedar like all wood left on it's own will turn color. Sealers, oils, varnish will all eventually break down and need to be refinished. Latex paint will be a challenge to paint with requiring several coats to get a good opaque finish. Enamels wont last as long outdoors.

If your panel is large you will need to know the proper techniques to glue up your wood. Done wrong it will warp, crack, split or ignite. I see so many potential areas that can cause a problem if you use the wrong materials, etc. Tell us a little more about the project, that could help with suggestions.

 

[Billct2]

Yes a few more details would help.
Cedar goes grey with age so you could just let it age.
If you are using artists colors I would find out what the manufacturer might recommend for a clear sealer and use it only on the painted areas, just like clearing over gold leaf on a vehicle. I worked at a shop that used to do this with a clear acylic sealer on murals we did using acrylic artist paints. They held up for many many years.

 

[Craig Sjoquist]

Billct... is correct and well said.

 

[Moze]

Cedar also takes stains extremely well. Soaking the wood in the stain for a while will greatly increase the length of time until it begins to look aged. We have an 8' cedar fence around our property and it was "pre-dipped". In the Texas sun, it's held up really well.

 

[bipedaliferous]

Thanks, all, for the tips thus far. Most of what I have fabricated so far have been indoor signs, so these concerns do not arise.

As for the sign construction, I am aware of the importance of assembly and grain direction if I am making one panel. Originally, I thought I would go this route and cut shallow grooves after to simulate a crate-like look, but I might assemble them loosely to give it the true look of a crate. I will be mindful of the grain direction for the shifting of the wood over time with age. Can you explain to me this "ignite" issue I must be aware of?

As for the artwork, it's the farms logo, paintings of produce and lettering all layed out to represent the look of a vintage seed catalog. I like the idea of just covering the art with acrylic sealer (any particular brand?) and leaving the wood to age with a penetrating sealer (recommendations?).

I also want to mention again that this is not a permanent fixture, but will be outdoors a lot, dealing with sun and rain, so I want to make sure it is "treated" properly.

Thanks again.