Elevator Doors Removal HELP!

[dlndesign]

I have a Concept General Formulations low tack vinyl gloss laminated that I applied to 6 Brass Elevators Doors.

They were up for 24 hours for an event. I went to remove the graphics and the adhesive remained and just the vinyl pulled of with no adhesive on the back. I had given some heat to the vinyl prior to removal, but that did not work.

It took a few hours to remove the adhesive off the doors.

My question is what is the fastest remover that will cut through the layers of adhesive and still not damage the surface of the brass doors?

What we are currently using is rapid remover, goof off and squeeges and then once the adhesive is off some brasso to final touch.

Does anyone have any suggestions to make this removal any easier?

 

[John Butto]

If the brass doors have a clear coating, which I know they do, DO NOT use brasso, just soap and water for cleanup after rapid remover.

 

[Marlene]

have you taken all the vinyl off yet? if not, try without the heat as some times that makes the vinyl and adhesive separate.

rapid remover and mild cleaners
+1 to what John said as you don't want to strip off the clear coat!

 

[Sideshow]

If the brass doors have a clear coating, which I know they do, DO NOT use brasso, just soap and water for cleanup after rapid remover.

100% correct. and most of the doors HAVE the clear on them. You can tell if they are not tarnished.ie look shiney.

 

[Sideshow]

Most likely Hes having trouble because the adhesive is hardened on the clear coat......hes in for a long removal

 

[dlndesign]

Ok already used brasso on 2 elevator doors. Any suggestions on a clear coat application to re-apply once the surface is cleaned?

 

[Sideshow]

Ok already used brasso on 2 elevator doors. Any suggestions on a clear coat application to re-apply once the surface is cleaned?

you cant, its a special almost "rubber" like coating that is applied from manufacturer. Its not just a simple spray n dry. It has to be done correctly to ensure the brass does not oxidize. Hate to tell u but your most likely going to have to contact the manufacturer.

 

[Sideshow]

and its not cheap... We had the brass coated restoring our 1926 fire engine at the station, the brass poles, panel hose reel wheel and and handrails cost us 500.00 to have coated properly...AND we had to have removed and brought in.

 

[John Butto]

http://www.creativemetal.com/
Have purchased with them in the past, located in CA

 

[Sideshow]

http://www.creativemetal.com/
Have purchased with them in the past, located in CA

problem with that, is he already brassoed the doors. The doors have to be prepped and polished a certain way prior to using and DIY coat. . we were going to go that route ( buying the clear online and applying ourselves ) but after a test on one handrails orrible result, and calling the company that made the clear, we learned there is a lot more to preserving a polished metal then that, and we were not going to risk it for our OWN truck ..so I would advise against to do without knowing what your doing for a customer...

 

[dlndesign]

Thanks John, I just gave them a call, waiting to hear back.

 

[SightLine]

Probably way too big a project for rattle cans but when I restore antiques where I've polished the brass I use Nikolas laquer which is excellent and designed for brass. They have a bunch of clear coat products for metals.

http://www.finish1.com/

 

[ddarlak]

WOW.....

i know it's too late, but ever hear of removable vinyl?????

holy cow what a clusterduck.....

 

[dlndesign]

This was a removable vinyl