Graphics2u
New Member
DX4 Heads are used in:
MUTOH ROCKHOPPER II
MUTOH SPITFIRE
AGFA GRAND SHERPA
MIMAKI JV3
MANY, MANY ROLANDS
AND I'M SURE ALOT OF OTHERS
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Epson DX4 Print Heads - Are they all the same?
- Thread starter Graphics2u
- Start date
DX4 Heads are used in:
MUTOH ROCKHOPPER II
MUTOH SPITFIRE
AGFA GRAND SHERPA
MIMAKI JV3
MANY, MANY ROLANDS
AND I'M SURE ALOT OF OTHERS
Epson DX4 Can I move used ecosolvent head to Epson 10600
Hi,
I have just fried one of my 10600 heads, maybe by over cleaning and SSCL with blocked damper.
The black/cyan nozzle plate is now loose. So the head is history.
So as I have 4 DX4 heads that were previously on an Agfa Grand Sherpa with ecosol ink, which I have tried to clean, can I re-clean or try to get one of them to a 100% clean stage where I can put it in my 10600 unitary head to replace the B/C head and continue to print with water based pigment ink?
The four used DX4 heads have new adapters on them and still may be able to be cleaned better before fitting in the 10600 - I would say the best of them has 95% of both nozzle rows running clean. The worst of the heads have one nozzle row showing 50% still blocked.
My goal at this stage would be to find the best cleaning solution recipe, for ecosolvent ink prior use, using a mixture of basic material solvents and not proprietary solutions, then to try to use this to get one of the heads firing 100% for fitting into the unitary 10600 head/damper assembly.
All four DX4 from the Agfa have good nozzle plates with no leakage between the colour tracks.
Once fitted to the 10600 I could perhaps do a SSCL routine to clean any still blocked nozzles but I have now become pretty wary of that routine, since that is how I damaged the black cyan head.
cheers
PS - before posting this I read through these DX4 forum posts and in regards to those I note that I have no head voltage info for the 4 used ecosol DX4 heads, as the previous adapters with the voltage tags got discarded before I realised the importance of such info. So setting or needing to change the voltage settings for the replacement head I hope to put into the 10600 is now not possible?? Or is it possible to run some type of print test to determine the voltage requirement? I know from my previous old Techtronix Phaser 600 that the voltage trim pots could be set using the test print routine, as the head aged the voltage could be seen as needing to be changed from the print test nozzle deviations.
Hi,
I have just fried one of my 10600 heads, maybe by over cleaning and SSCL with blocked damper.
The black/cyan nozzle plate is now loose. So the head is history.
So as I have 4 DX4 heads that were previously on an Agfa Grand Sherpa with ecosol ink, which I have tried to clean, can I re-clean or try to get one of them to a 100% clean stage where I can put it in my 10600 unitary head to replace the B/C head and continue to print with water based pigment ink?
The four used DX4 heads have new adapters on them and still may be able to be cleaned better before fitting in the 10600 - I would say the best of them has 95% of both nozzle rows running clean. The worst of the heads have one nozzle row showing 50% still blocked.
My goal at this stage would be to find the best cleaning solution recipe, for ecosolvent ink prior use, using a mixture of basic material solvents and not proprietary solutions, then to try to use this to get one of the heads firing 100% for fitting into the unitary 10600 head/damper assembly.
All four DX4 from the Agfa have good nozzle plates with no leakage between the colour tracks.
Once fitted to the 10600 I could perhaps do a SSCL routine to clean any still blocked nozzles but I have now become pretty wary of that routine, since that is how I damaged the black cyan head.
cheers
PS - before posting this I read through these DX4 forum posts and in regards to those I note that I have no head voltage info for the 4 used ecosol DX4 heads, as the previous adapters with the voltage tags got discarded before I realised the importance of such info. So setting or needing to change the voltage settings for the replacement head I hope to put into the 10600 is now not possible?? Or is it possible to run some type of print test to determine the voltage requirement? I know from my previous old Techtronix Phaser 600 that the voltage trim pots could be set using the test print routine, as the head aged the voltage could be seen as needing to be changed from the print test nozzle deviations.
10600 black cyan head replacement
Update.
I have fitted a used DX4 head from a Roland machine into my 10600 unitary head assembly as black cyan head. The head rank number is as follow, it may be a Roland number or it could be an Epson number - since Roland agent is also Epson wide format agent. How can I tell if it is an Epson or roland number?
72Y3035,
UXUXVVS,
S.....,
10S..E
Is it definitely safe to start the machine without inputting the head rank number? i.e So the replaced head would then be running on the old heads rank number.
Is it better, or possible, to input a 'safe' head rank number if a conversion number is not know? Is there indeed a 10600 'generic' DX4 number head rank number that is safe?
The Epson 10600 service manual states Epson 10600 machine can evaluate the characteristics of
each printhead, specify a printhead ID for each printhead and register this in
designated NVRAM - does anybody understand how to do this?
"5.2.1 Head Rank Input
In order to ensure optimum print quality, this printer evaluates the characteristics of
each printhead, specifies a printhead ID for each printhead and registers these in
designated NVRAM addresses on the C362DRV Board so that irregularities in print
quality due to printhead characteristics is eliminated. When a printhead or C362DRV
Board is replaced, it is necessary to match the printhead ID with the information
registered in NVRAM."
Advice very welcome.
Update.
I have fitted a used DX4 head from a Roland machine into my 10600 unitary head assembly as black cyan head. The head rank number is as follow, it may be a Roland number or it could be an Epson number - since Roland agent is also Epson wide format agent. How can I tell if it is an Epson or roland number?
72Y3035,
UXUXVVS,
S.....,
10S..E
Is it definitely safe to start the machine without inputting the head rank number? i.e So the replaced head would then be running on the old heads rank number.
Is it better, or possible, to input a 'safe' head rank number if a conversion number is not know? Is there indeed a 10600 'generic' DX4 number head rank number that is safe?
The Epson 10600 service manual states Epson 10600 machine can evaluate the characteristics of
each printhead, specify a printhead ID for each printhead and register this in
designated NVRAM - does anybody understand how to do this?
"5.2.1 Head Rank Input
In order to ensure optimum print quality, this printer evaluates the characteristics of
each printhead, specifies a printhead ID for each printhead and registers these in
designated NVRAM addresses on the C362DRV Board so that irregularities in print
quality due to printhead characteristics is eliminated. When a printhead or C362DRV
Board is replaced, it is necessary to match the printhead ID with the information
registered in NVRAM."
Advice very welcome.
Last edited:
Part number of Epson : F086051
this is a Head assembly of the 10600 , it contains 3 Printheads
in order to put in the head rank of the printhead in a Roland or Mutoh u have to scratsh off the printhead numbers , 3 labes are located on the head ,
first label : Epson ID
2Nd label (under the first) : Mutoh ID
3rd Label (last one on the head) : Roland ID
this is a Head assembly of the 10600 , it contains 3 Printheads
in order to put in the head rank of the printhead in a Roland or Mutoh u have to scratsh off the printhead numbers , 3 labes are located on the head ,
first label : Epson ID
2Nd label (under the first) : Mutoh ID
3rd Label (last one on the head) : Roland ID
MikePro
New Member
it will work just fine... the argument is that something bad MAY happen but, in the past, I've run my printer with incorrect I.D.s and i haven't seen any decline in quality as a result (also noted, I now have all the correct head i.ds entered for the sake of good practice)
MikePro
New Member
yep!
D.A.M Uk Solutions
New Member
Well I have read ever post I can find relating to print heads for my Mutoh Rockhopper ll.
And I am now more confused than I was before reading for the past 3 hours!
I have a problem with one of the heads K/Cy (head 1).
It has been giving some problems for the last 2 weeks now. So it as been removed and cleaned, got it to around 90% clear replaced it and was printing ok ish for a day or so, then started to drop off again.
So we replaced the dampers and the captops. but still would not clear the problem, so took out the head again and soaked overnight and cleaned through with a syringe and cleaning fluid. Replaced the print head. Did a test print and still the same. Left it until the next day and tried again, now we get a print that is covered with black ink (it will print all colours of the image but floods the print with black.
So have been looking to buy a new print head. But have read so many differing posts regarding installing them that spending £600 plus to have it blow the first time I power up the printer.
some as yopu need to input the code for the heas some sy you do not some say, you have to buy a head set for your printer some say it is not a problem and you can just replace with any DX4 print head and use the settings you have already in the printer, (just align the head)
Which is right? What is the best thing to do with very limited funds? I an ideal situation we would like to just get an engineer to come and replace the faulty head so we can get on with printing but funds are hard as just been running for a year, after being out of the industry for just under 6 years.
Any help and advice would be good so we can decide what to do.
Thank you all.
And I am now more confused than I was before reading for the past 3 hours!
I have a problem with one of the heads K/Cy (head 1).
It has been giving some problems for the last 2 weeks now. So it as been removed and cleaned, got it to around 90% clear replaced it and was printing ok ish for a day or so, then started to drop off again.
So we replaced the dampers and the captops. but still would not clear the problem, so took out the head again and soaked overnight and cleaned through with a syringe and cleaning fluid. Replaced the print head. Did a test print and still the same. Left it until the next day and tried again, now we get a print that is covered with black ink (it will print all colours of the image but floods the print with black.
So have been looking to buy a new print head. But have read so many differing posts regarding installing them that spending £600 plus to have it blow the first time I power up the printer.
some as yopu need to input the code for the heas some sy you do not some say, you have to buy a head set for your printer some say it is not a problem and you can just replace with any DX4 print head and use the settings you have already in the printer, (just align the head)
Which is right? What is the best thing to do with very limited funds? I an ideal situation we would like to just get an engineer to come and replace the faulty head so we can get on with printing but funds are hard as just been running for a year, after being out of the industry for just under 6 years.
Any help and advice would be good so we can decide what to do.
Thank you all.
Can you help me?
If i have only 3rd label, how i can calculate the 2nd label? Because i need id on 2nd label.
Thank you very much.
whgjettdesigns
New Member
for those of you who have used these heads for the mutoh falcon outdoor jr. where are you getting them and which ones are you getting?
Gabriel
New Member
Once I used only 4 head ranks for 6 print-heads on the same printer. Still working fine after more then 2 and a half years. The head rank is.....important, but if it's not changed, you don't create a critical situation. DX4 solvent-based head ranks are different then the water-based ones.
I was reading somewhere just the other day (forgot to bookmark it) and noticed two quoted different viscosity figures for aqueous dye and pigments, dye was from 1.78 - 1.98 and pigment was from 1.95 - 2.20 small differences, but differences nonetheless.
Presumably higher viscosity ink will require more voltage for the same drop volume, this head ranking for particular inkset types.
It would be interesting to see if we could amass some DX4 head rank numbers for;
Epson <> Roland <> Mutoh <> Mimaki aand put them in a spreadsheet.
Then if someone purchases a replacement with all of the numbers listed on the head it may be possible to cross reference and at least get a clue as what the head rank numbers would likely be for the other brands of printers.
Do the various service manuals provide an explanation of the various elements of the head rank numbers?
Presumably higher viscosity ink will require more voltage for the same drop volume, this head ranking for particular inkset types.
It would be interesting to see if we could amass some DX4 head rank numbers for;
Epson <> Roland <> Mutoh <> Mimaki aand put them in a spreadsheet.
Then if someone purchases a replacement with all of the numbers listed on the head it may be possible to cross reference and at least get a clue as what the head rank numbers would likely be for the other brands of printers.
Do the various service manuals provide an explanation of the various elements of the head rank numbers?
Ultrasonic cleaning baths are supposed to work a treat on blocked print heads. I once ended up being given a gross of "special" ultrasonic print head cleaning machines from one of my suppliers... they were nowt special, just a cheap ultrasonic bath like you find in Argos. If you've just about given up on a blocked head it's worth dumping it in a bath full of cleaning fluid and zapping it repeatedly with ultrasonic.... it might not clear the problem but it just might do the trick.... saving you a few quid in the process. Either way I doubt a syringe full of solvent is going to penetrate deeply enough or disperse the blocked gunge... ultrasonic will break up the blockage and work it out of the head.
I don't do printing but we do service all our CNC machinery in-house. What we've found is that most machinery is simply a pile of 3rd party components which a machinery "manufacturer" has put together. Things like seals and O rings can be bought verrryyy cheaply by simply sending an old seal to an O ring supplier who'll match it and send you a bucket of them for less than £20. Your printer manufacturer doesn't make rubber o rings they buy them in... so can you. If we get a blown circuit board we just give it to a local electronics/ circuit board manufacturer who finds the fault and replaces the part. In most cases a totally fried board comes down to a single failed transistor or diode which cost about £2. Service engineers want you to buy new boards all the time because it makes them money.. they probably take your totally "ruined" board back to the workshop and put the £2 part in themselves thus giving them a "factory reconditioned" board to sell back to you.
I don't do printing but we do service all our CNC machinery in-house. What we've found is that most machinery is simply a pile of 3rd party components which a machinery "manufacturer" has put together. Things like seals and O rings can be bought verrryyy cheaply by simply sending an old seal to an O ring supplier who'll match it and send you a bucket of them for less than £20. Your printer manufacturer doesn't make rubber o rings they buy them in... so can you. If we get a blown circuit board we just give it to a local electronics/ circuit board manufacturer who finds the fault and replaces the part. In most cases a totally fried board comes down to a single failed transistor or diode which cost about £2. Service engineers want you to buy new boards all the time because it makes them money.. they probably take your totally "ruined" board back to the workshop and put the £2 part in themselves thus giving them a "factory reconditioned" board to sell back to you.
Gabriel
New Member
Andy, you are right with the service engineers. But not all the companies have this "strategy" That depends on each company and from one customer to another. Nowdays, everybody has access to informations and some of the companies don't want to risk their reputation. The customer can easily find out what's his problem and what's the most cheap solutions for him. When something is not working and the owner of that machine does not know what's happening, the service technician will do what's best for his company and for him.
My understanding is that the manifold on a solvent head is different (no direct experience of this - just from what I've read) so you should be able to buy the Fj heads, change the manifold to a solvent resistant one and you'd be good to go...BUT please don't take my word for it, wait till someone with actual experience and knowledge of the differences confirms what I have just said.
peace out
Glenn
peace out
Glenn
genericname
New Member
I would be veeeeeeeeeery interested in hearing a response to lookinc's question as well.
Hell, just yesterday, I pulled off the ranking sticker from the manifold of a JV4 head, and guess what was underneath... a ranking sticker with JV3 codes on it. HUH!
I may run an experiment with different inks sitting in different manifolds when I have enough to spare.
Hell, just yesterday, I pulled off the ranking sticker from the manifold of a JV4 head, and guess what was underneath... a ranking sticker with JV3 codes on it. HUH!
I may run an experiment with different inks sitting in different manifolds when I have enough to spare.