First time printing on translucent

[Stacey K]

I'll be printing on translucent for the first time on my HP Latex 115 late next week. I would like to know what material would you suggest and many people talk about doing 2 passes. I'm not sure how I go about doing that on my printer, or is there a specific setting you would suggest? It is a solid colored red circle with white lettering. I typically purchase my vinyl from Fellers and I currently use mostly 3M products. I will have a seam and I was told on another post, which I can't find, that I should design around the seam - done! The seam will be on a white line in the logo, so I think I have that part covered. Thanks!

 

[balstestrat]

Just get a profile that's for it or close. There's no double hit on these printers. You will just have a profile that's got for example 16-passes and higher amount of ink.

 

[Stacey K]

This is what I was going to purchase...it is white translucent...unless there's something else someone suggests?

 

[Z SIGNS]

For translucent prints that are going on white plastic we just print on clear laminate. Try it it works fine. Sometimes we do another print in reverse and put it on the back.

 

[rjssigns]

For translucent prints that are going on white plastic we just print on clear laminate. Try it it works fine. Sometimes we do another print in reverse and put it on the back.

Yup, or reverse print on clear, apply second surface then "laminate" with white vinyl.(needs to have white adhesive side)

 

[Johnny Best]

I have a ecosolvent and use that 3850 with double pass and it looks good. Latex, I have no idea to be honest.
Have done the transparent on top with reverse on other side, need a light table and is a lot of work, so I stick with the 3850 since most businesses are only good for 3 years.

 

[Scotchbrite]

I get regular 48" translucent white 3M vinyl by the yard to print on. We don't do very much translucent printing because we try to use 3630 for back lit signs. Using vinyl by the yard saves from having to buy an expensive roll of vinyl and keeping it around for a long time.

 

[Inks]

This is what I was going to purchase...it is white translucent...unless there's something else someone suggests?

View attachment 158980

That will work well

 

[tulsagraphics]

I'll be printing on translucent for the first time on my HP Latex 115 late next week. I would like to know what material would you suggest and many people talk about doing 2 passes. I'm not sure how I go about doing that on my printer, or is there a specific setting you would suggest? It is a solid colored red circle with white lettering. I typically purchase my vinyl from Fellers and I currently use mostly 3M products. I will have a seam and I was told on another post, which I can't find, that I should design around the seam - done! The seam will be on a white line in the logo, so I think I have that part covered. Thanks!

If the design allows for it... you might be able to do it all in translucent colored film (e.g. 3630 series red cut vinyl on top of white). I always prefer this method, but when printing is necessary, I'll print on translucent (with custom media profile -- but nothing out of the ordinary like double passes or anything), but I also print again on the laminate itself and apply that on top. (granted, I have a RollsRoller so it's a lot easier).

 

[brdesign]

If you need a heavy ink saturation try one of the generic profiles for HP backlit media. Latex printers work great for backlite prints

 

[kcollinsdesign]

I do not know what your application is, but for backlit outdoor signs the only thing that works and allows me to warrant my product (5 years) is UV cured pigmented ink (image/white/image) on clear PSV (if not printing directly to substrate). Printed correctly on the right film, this is a decent product which has uniform appearance both in daylight and when illuminated from the back, and holds up fairly well to fading (it will fade starting from day one, and customer expectations must be set up accordingly).

I much prefer back-sprayed pan faces or 3M 3630, and will only use printed film when it is the only choice (usually budgetary reasons or client insistence). This is where professional design and the use of appropriate technology comes in (note what the big corporate players do).

I cannot afford to buy and feed an EFI VUTEk printer, so I just buy mine rolled up and sent to me in a box for about $5 sq. ft.

 

[Terrance the Deuce]

I'll be printing on translucent for the first time on my HP Latex 115 late next week. I would like to know what material would you suggest and many people talk about doing 2 passes. I'm not sure how I go about doing that on my printer, or is there a specific setting you would suggest? It is a solid colored red circle with white lettering. I typically purchase my vinyl from Fellers and I currently use mostly 3M products. I will have a seam and I was told on another post, which I can't find, that I should design around the seam - done! The seam will be on a white line in the logo, so I think I have that part covered. Thanks!

If it's possible I would cut this on colored cast translucent cut vinyl, rather than printing. Based on your description of the design, it sounds like it might be possible, but maybe not. When we have to print on translucent (we also have HP Latexs), I have had years of success with Arlon 6500 mounted to white .15 or .177 polycarbonate (lexan). Arlon 6500 is on the cheaper end of the cast translucent options, and I would certainly recommend cast if it's an outdoor sign. We usually laminate with 3M 8508, which is a cheaper cast laminate option that works great on flat surfaces. I don't have the equipment to create a profile for backlit products, so I generally use the HP "Generic Backlit Self Adhesive Vinyl" at 16 pass. The downside of this method is that the backlit profiles darken the colors, so your red might look a bit dark in the daytime, but lighter and closer to the intended color at night when the box is lit. There are expensive, and somewhat tricky (if you're new to backlit) ways around this by mounting extra layers precisely, but we have had many repeat customers for this and no complaints on color (including major brands). The only time I had an issue is when we forgot to use the backlit profile and the print looked too washed out with the light on.

 

[Precision]

We used to do all of this with our Latex 360. Stressed everytime, don't like sleeping that way.

Now we create the artwork and send the print to several wholesalers that have double strike capable printers (Vuteks).

They either print direct to substrate or deliver the print, depending on who has the best price.

 

[Drip Dry]

We used to do all of this with our Latex 360. Stressed everytime, don't like sleeping that way.

Now we create the artwork and send the print to several wholesalers that have double strike capable printers (Vuteks).

They either print direct to substrate or deliver the print, depending on who has the best price.

 

[Drip Dry]

I'm curious... who are the wholesalers you send to
I also have a 360, and prints Ok for lightboxes, but I would much rather have someone else do the work and maybe better

 

[Precision]

Royal Printing in Denver, Co., or Sign-Mart in Santa Ana, CA. You can find both on the internet.

Problem with translucent prints is the strength of the lighting behind it. On older flourescent boxes, not too much of a problem. However on a new LED retrofit, sometimes the light can blow through, and wash out the color at night.

Getting it printed direct to surface or a double strike digital printer is almost same cost, when you figure the amount of time,work and stress doing it yourself. At least for us anyway.

 

[kcollinsdesign]

Most of the reason the light is "blowing through" is because most electric sign cabinets are designed for pan faces, which lift the surface of the face further from the light source. You can clean off an old pan face, but the better plan is to buy a new one. You may be able to find somebody to make them for you in a big city, but the rest of us have to pay oversize shipping charges. It's frustrating, but I understand a skinnier aluminum cabinet costs less to make, and most national sign companies will ship a complete sign, so the extra shipping for the face does not really factor in.