Fix large bubbles

[Sublime]

I have a client who wants we to fix bubbles in the window area on a van without replacing the wrap. Is there any technique to use to fix this... 3M primer etc?
The van is a Toyota hiace.

Thanks for the replies

 

[Charlie J]

Primer might help...but I doubt that you'll be able to peel the vinyl back a few inches and lay it back down after applying primer.

 

[GAC05]

I tried using a syringe to inject 94 into a void like that, result was bad.
The primer needs to be semi-dry & tacky before it touches the vinyl.
It melted my 180c on contact.

wayne k
guam usa

 

[CheapVehicleWrap]

Ouch. You're really pushing that calendared Di-Noc...

 

[TyrantDesigner]

There really isn't a way to fix that, there will be dirt and particulates inside the bubbles *especially* with that hole in the bubble. really the only thing you can do is attempt to heat the vinyl to activate the adhesive more then squeegee then reheat and squeegee again. most likely though, you will always see those same bubbles reform time after time. Next time use some 3m edge prep heat cure the groove post app and learn from the experience.

 

[wu99wu]

i would cut it, add primer94 to the bubbled spots, heat up and get the primer to dry & your cut are to shrink back a bit, press it down. then i would just run a thin strip of the same material along that recessed indent the full length of the area and call it a day.

 

[Sublime]

Thanks guys,
I used 3M primer before fitting it. One side was perfect, but this side didn't want to stay down. This was was after a few days it popped up?
The surface was clean and the primer was used.

 

[wu99wu]

yea, it looks like that bubble is one of those that you would need to cut open. i don't think you would be able to press it down and not lift again...

 

[tyzero]

As a last ditch effort (I mean LAST). You could super glue that area. This would be a fine line and must be approved by the customer.

OR........the best solution

Rip it off and start over. You had already primed it and stretched it into the groove. Once it lifted the posibility of it resticking is gone. Adhesive is still stuck to the vehicle in the groove and not the material. Also its dinoc carbon fiber. This material will only continue to lift and not adhear to the vehicle.
You have rather large holes in the material and when reapplied you will see the vehicle color. The customer is aware of the problem now, they will look at any repair with a microscope. Any flaw and you will be forced to rip it off.

just my .02

been there and done that with dinoc.

good luck!

 

[wu99wu]

di-noc is a tricky product to work with, i've been using this stuff for the last 2yrs, di-noc carbon fibers & di-noc brushed vinyls. because its more PVC based than vinyl and it is really thick it doesn't like to conform to grooves like those. seams are more necessary with di-noc than other thinner vinyls. however, this product is still very prominent in the custom car niche (even though it was never made for this purpose).

 

[Malkin]

di-noc is a tricky product to work with, i've been using this stuff for the last 2yrs, di-noc carbon fibers & di-noc brushed vinyls. because its more PVC based than vinyl and it is really thick it doesn't like to conform to grooves like those. seams are more necessary with di-noc than other thinner vinyls. however, this product is still very prominent in the custom car niche (even though it was never made for this purpose).

Just for the sake of being pedantic... vinyl = polyvinyl chloride = PVC

I get what you're saying though.

 

[wu99wu]

thanks Ted, that i didn't know. would it be safe to say that the di-noc products have more of a plastic composition in it?.... or does that sound stupid?...

 

[Malkin]

I haven't ever worked with di-noc myself, but I can speculate...

The adhesive vinyl we use in the sign industry has plasticizers and other additives to make it more pliable and give other desired characteristics. It's probable that the formula for di-noc has less plasticizer added than vinyl designed for vehicle wraps.

 

[ProWraps]

eh. you all know dinoc is an architectural film not meant for wrapping complex curves/parts nor vehicles right?

thats why 3M released the 1080 component.

wrong material for the job = bad results. too bad for the customer.

 

[wu99wu]

ProWraps: yes i know i know, as for everyone wrapping car parts with the stuff. however it is pretty legit! i wrap lots of stuff with di-noc and have great success. i have removed it off stuff too and it's still good underneath (max part that was wrapped and removed was around 6mnths so not too long i know).

yes yes, i know 3m 1080 is made for this stuff, which i use 75% of the time.

as far as what i use for the wrap just depends on 1-size of coverage, 2-complex curves, 3-customers preference on the finish they want.