folding dibond/alupanel

[eforer]

Hi Gang,

We've been experimenting with folding dibond/alupanel as detailed in their fabrication manuals. We haven't had much success. My router operator selected a 90 deg v carving bit with with a .18 flat in the center (recommended by the Laird site). We route the panel leaving a little of the polyethylene core behind and 2 out of 3 times, the outer aluminum face cracks when it folds and more often then not the piece separates completely. What are we doing wrong??

Also, we are trying to fold dibond in to boxes and are having a heck of a time getting the edges to meet up nicely either. If we want the perpendicular edges to meet at a miter, we have to off set a v-carve pass by a healthy enough amount that the interior corners are pretty fugly and have to be cleaned up by hand.

Any tips will be welcome.

Thanks!!!

 

[S'N'S]

The only success I had was to router out virtually ALL the plastic to the aluminum skin. I also used a slightly wider bit on the flat of the tip than suggested. I practiced on scraps until I had it right.
To route that deep you need a dead flat surface or the the router will go thru in spots and not deep enough in others. I've only done it a couple of times though so someone else would probably know more.

 

[GB2]

Are you using a regular 90 degree v carving bit and then adding a .18 flat in the center? There are specific folding bits that will cut the proper channel in one pass.

 

[eforer]

No, we are using the folding bit which has the flat section in the middle of the V bit \_/ shape. We aren't having consistency issues with depth, I can freshly surface the spoil board with a fly cutter, but we can get onion skins that are consistent. It's just fabrication manuals make it seem like this is no big deal and we're burning through our scrap bin (not that I care about the scrap) trying to figure out a repeatable reliable folding process.

 

[Roto]

No, we are using the folding bit which has the flat section in the middle of the V bit \_/ shape. We aren't having consistency issues with depth, I can freshly surface the spoil board with a fly cutter, but we can get onion skins that are consistent. It's just fabrication manuals make it seem like this is no big deal and we're burning through our scrap bin (not that I care about the scrap) trying to figure out a repeatable reliable folding process.

Only thing I can say is when you fold it you only get one chance, to bend back and forward will crack the Ali. The only other thing is too much rubber left in the cut will bunch up and put pressure on the fold.
Roto

 

[Rydaddy]

In my experience Dibond routes better than alupanel or max metal, etc. Do you know if your scrap you used was actual Dibond? If you can try one of each and it might shed some light.

 

[Bly]

I guess you know this but some grades have thicker skin for folding etc.

 

[John in Cali]

I route folding panels using the same bit as you. The depth must be all the way through the plastic to the aluminum. Also, I have found the higher quality polymetals work better.

 

[eforer]

we are using Alupanel double sided and econopanel. The econopanel works, more poorly. There is documentation from Alupanel on folding etc, but maybe actual dibond would work better.

-Ed