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Formed plastic letter install

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by rydods, Mar 16, 2020.

  1. rydods

    rydods Member

    Feb 15, 2007
    I have 12" formed plastic letters to mount on a horizontal corrugated metal building (sorry, my phone died that day and I don't have a pic.) Corrugations are spaced 9" apart. Building is a light grey and letters are black.

    The install is about a 1.5 hour drive and I really don't want to "litter" the building siding with holes not to mention dealing with the corrugation. There are a total of 29 letters on one line.

    Gemini doesn't sell track mounts anymore so what would be my best option for pre-mounting/setting up these letters for a quick and easier install?

    Thanks in advance!
  2. Gino

    Gino Premium Subscriber

    Jun 7, 2006
    Put some acrylic stringers up, glue the letters fast and paint what remains..... the color of the building.
  3. signage

    signage Major Contributor

    Oct 5, 2005
    build your own track system.
  4. Billct2

    Billct2 Major Contributor

    Mar 12, 2005
    New England
    I've done them with ACM stringers. Paint the acm to match building, mount the letters with studs & nuts.
  5. Z SIGNS

    Z SIGNS Very Active Member

    Feb 14, 2009
    Trenton NJ
    Mount letters to a panel or stringers
  6. JoeRees

    JoeRees Member

    Apr 7, 2015
    New England
    I've had good luck with formed plastic on corrugated by ordering the letters with threaded stud mounts on the backside and specifying aluminum studs with adhesive mounting pads. You know, the perforated pads that screw onto the studs. You can't control where the studs will fall on the letters and it would be almost impossible to pre-engineer a layout that would avoid all the possible corrugations in the siding - but in reality it's not a big deal. Here's why - the majority of your studs will fall onto smooth surfaces anyway and you can use 100% silicone to adhere the pads to the siding. Masking tape will hold them in place for the hour or so it'll take the silicone to dry enough so you can remove the tape without the letter moving. I've done this on raw days where the temp was around 40° and the silicone drys fine as long as the surface is dry to begin with - no holes to drill and 10 years later all letters are still intact. For those pads that fall on top of a corrugation you can simply shorten the stud and glue away. Any stud/pad that falls on the side of a corrugation can be snipped in half with sidecutters and still grip well by globbing on a little extra silicone to fill the void. I don't like drilling holes in people's buildings unless there's some reason that the letters need to be removed periodically then replaced in the same locations (like if the building was going to be painted). But really, even if you drill holes for every stud the theory above still applies - you'll have to **** around with any studs that happen to fall on corrugations but it's not that bad - good luck!
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Texas_Signmaker

    Texas_Signmaker Very Active Signmaker

    Oct 21, 2016
    Frisco, TX
    I never really had a huge problem putting letters on a corrugated metal wall. I mean, every now and then you'll catch the slope of a rib but I just angle the drill to get the hole open and then straighten the drill out to go in. If a hole is being real picky I just pull the stud out and skip that one... granted there are plenty of others on the letter.
  8. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

    Sep 28, 2017
    Gemini doesn't sell letters mounted to a rail anymore? If nothing else you could specify them to place mounting holes in line (or 'stud for brick'), then get some prepainted 063 or something to mount them to, or rather mount the aluminum then mount the letters.
  9. rydods

    rydods Member

    Feb 15, 2007
    Thanks everyone I appreciate the advise.:)

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