Suggestions Frame for Dibond Sign

[wleong]

Do you have any suggestions on how to frame a dibond sign (48" x 36") and mount to a chain link fence? I was going to use Linklip brackets to mount the sign to the fence but the client wants some sort of frame to make it look "sharp". Thanks for your help.

 

[wleong]

The dibond sign is replacing an existing post and panel sign but the previous installer just tied the posts to the chain link fence with some rope like material.

 

[unclebun]

There are aluminum extrusion frame systems available that your sign would fit into, but the frame will end up costing as much as or more than the sign. But they do look sharp. Too good, in fact, to zip tie to a chain link fence.

 

[wleong]

Do you have the name of a supplier?

 

[unclebun]

We used to use extrusion from a company called NuTech, which appears to have gone out of business. I bet if you call Eagle Mouldings they have an extrusion that will work. Or maybe Alufab.

 

[2B]

What are your fabrication capabilities?

if you have a welder, use angle iron, for a 4 sided frame,
weld hex head bolts to the back of the frame and then bolt to the fence using large fender washers.

if you do not have a welder, you can use aluminum angle and pop rivet a frame together that way

 

[spectrum maine]

cut 1" pvc into 11/2 by 1 " bevel front edge for looks. dado back so sign sits into the dado miter corners paint & attach sign with screws from back.

 

[Malkin]

Way Back... We used to rout and bend for a particular client when it was actually DiBond. When the cheaper stuff came out most all of them said that it would split if you tried it.
Since then, I am guessing that some brands do work better than others, (probably due to thickness of the aluminum) or there is just a technique to it, but we just haven't tried anyway since then.

I think no matter what options you go with, it will double or more the price of the dibond panel. Even 1" pvc will add up by the time you mitre and dado it.
Though there are folks out there who know how to fold ACM, and you could theoretically add 1" to either end, fold it up and do a print with a border on it, making the whole panel dimensional and giving it a 'sharp' look.
With that being said, I've tried countless times, different bits, different brands of ACM, and it always shears apart on me! But watching the guys route and fold a gas station canopy by hand, on site, it's an amazingly rapid process for an experienced guy.

 

[OhioSigns]

A friend of mine's business engineers, fabricates and installs architectural facade systems using ACM. I've gotten ACM from him when I needed a brushed aluminum finish that will last outside or needed something bigger than 5'x10'. The stuff he has is a lot better quality than the typical AMC sign panel. They have a giant router to do their 5'x16' sheets. It's a pretty cool process to see how they route, fold and then screw the ACM to an aluminum frame.

 

[wleong]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and recommendations. I definitely learned a lot.

I ended up using 8020 aluminum extrusions to create the frame.

 

[spectrum maine]

I think no matter what options you go with, it will double or more the price of the dibond panel. Even 1" pvc will add up by the time you mitre and dado it.
Though there are folks out there who know how to fold ACM, and you could theoretically add 1" to either end, fold it up and do a print with a border on it, making the whole panel dimensional and giving it a 'sharp' look.
With that being said, I've tried countless times, different bits, different brands of ACM, and it always shears apart on me! But watching the guys route and fold a gas station canopy by hand, on site, it's an amazingly rapid process for an experienced guy.

USUALLY THE FOLDED STUFF IS A THICKER FACE METAL