FUJI flat bed - plexi ink peeling problem

[DougWestwood]

Hey All!

Just started at a new shop and they have a FUJI flat bed. It's an OCE just rebranded. They are having a problem with ink sticking to plexi glass.

I never noticed a problem with the OCE at the old place. Plexi panels came and went very well. This particular job is a black text/white flood layered print, but the white ink is peeling off/not adhering to the plexi.

They have tried raising the lamp settings, and we're going to try using adhesion promoter on the plexi (though we are concerned about streaking.)

Anyone had a similar problem? Any comparisons/experiences between the OCE and FUJI flat beds?

Thanks for any help.
- Doug

 

[rfulford]

I could be a different series of ink or it could be the acrylic. I tend to use Optix DA whenever possible and get great adhesion with Sericol EF ink. I am using an Inca not an Acuity however. You may also want to try a adhesion promoter like ZE1000 to prep your boards. Sericol actually makes a different promoter for acrylic but I forget the name. We have been using ZE1000 on acrylic without problems.

 

[ForgeInc]

Most likely the ink. We just bought an oce and we had to choose between 3 inks. I forget the series numbers, but there is one ultra high gamut, one medium gamut/better adhesion, and one lower gamut w/ high adhesion & flexibility.

Maybe try a different ink if you guys are printing lots of acrylic. We've yet to get ours installed so can't say how our setup will work or compare.

 

[juststrummin]

Need to use KI inks. KO inks are not flexible and will not adhere well to smooth surfaces.

 

[Nate1n22]

ZE-680 is the adhesion promoter for acrylic. We have bad luck with acrylic but good luck with PETG.

 

[DoubleDown]

Use Bond Aid, look it up, you will be fine. Either that or lightly sanded with fine grit sandpaper the surface, you won't notice it on the front.

 

[johnnysigns]

You can try a liquid adhesion promotor, get the sheets corona treated or you may be able to skimp by with just taking a propane torch to the surface of the acrylic right before printing.

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

Oce user here... we use the IJ256 inkset and Optix DA acrylic.
Near impossible to get it off once cured.

 

[Tgngreatnews]

Most likely the ink. We just bought an oce and we had to choose between 3 inks. I forget the series numbers, but there is one ultra high gamut, one medium gamut/better adhesion, and one lower gamut w/ high adhesion & flexibility. Maybe try a different ink if you guys are printing lots of acrylic. We've yet to get ours installed so can't say how our setup will work or compare.

Wondering what OCE you ended up going with? Was it the 258? We just purchased a 460GT and will be printing on a lot if acrylic.

 

[growler]

we are due to have the Océ installed and are toying between the 256 or 258.

The rep reckons a well calibrated profile and there is virtually no difference in the gamut between 256 and 258 and most people here that were on 256 are going to 258.

The 258 is supposedly **** to a blanket, coro etc non wiped with fingerprints = no issue and adhesion that's magic!

 

[Naskhan]

We are running a 480gt with the 256 inks. The adhesion on acrylic is acceptable. We normally use the DA acrylic but they don't make it past .25 in so for thicker acrylic prints you don't have a choice. The 258 inks are not close to the 256 in color gamut no matter how you profile it. It is far more matte in appearance compared to the satin finish of the 256. It is noticeable in photographic prints. Also you need to do more maintenance with the 258 set. There is an océ/Fuji acuity group on linkedin and and the actual end users of the 258 seem to be unhappy with it. There is at least one company using both 256 and 258 and they prefer the 256. I was actually looking to switch to it also until I heard the end user feedback. If you are doing coro signs all day and not high end/ fine art printing then the 258 may be acceptable