Gerber GS-15Plus Bail Arm Sticky

[stitchup]

Hi guys

I've not used my GS-15Plus plotter for over a year!!!

Today I decided to give it a thorough clean before cutting some labels. I found the bail arm was really sticky - I mean, very sticky! I tried cleaning it but this didn't work.

I recall this had been a problem in the passed.

Anyone have a solution for this - maybe wind some vinyl around it?

Cheers

John

 

[Fred Weiss]

Try cleaning it with alcohol. If that doesn't help then it's turning gummy and you may need to replace it. I've seen this happen with the rubber deteriorating when it starts getting very old.

 

[James Burke]

Per good advice from the plotter doctor:

Remove the bail roller from the plotter and carefully cut off the sticky rubber and clean the steel rod thoroughly. Go to the auto parts store and find some rubber fuel line hose with the inside diameter the same size as the bail roller rod. The inside diameter may be a touch smaller, and you will have to push it on from one end and keep steady pressure at that same end in order to keep the hose moving. Try not to get any twist in the hose.


JB

 

[stitchup]

Thanks for the quick reply

My plotter is quite old and with the exception of this problem, cuts beautifully

I'm guessing I'll need to replace as cleaning just doesn't appear to solve the problem. I was really surprised how sticky the roller was - it's as if it's melting in heat!! Strange.

James, it sound like you've encountered and solved the problem I'm having?

Parts seem only available from the US - Advantage for one. I've been in contact with them about sending to the UK but I don't believe they're interested!

In the short term, I might try placing a layer of thin vinyl around it.

Cheers

John

 

[James Burke]

Thanks for the quick reply James, it sound like you've encountered and solved the problem I'm having?

Yes, I helped a friend replace one earlier this summer. He called the plotter doctor here in the US and they told him he could either buy a new one or fix it like I mentioned above. He chose to fix it himself. It really works well.

You might want to try carefully putting baby powder (with cornstarch) on the bail roller. That also works well.

We cut a lot of monument stencil and sometimes we need to apply additional powder to the rubber stencil to keep running smoothly through the plotter. Over a period of time, I've noticed some of that baby powder has eliminated the stickiness on the bail roller, and even the drum. Just be careful not to get any powder on the silver guide rods or down in near the drum bearings. I like to dust a small bit of powder on a soft wash cloth and gently apply to the roller and drum.

Rubber (made from petroleum products) naturally deteriorates back to its original state, hence the sticky goo. Just be sure to keep the plotter covered and away from sunlight (which is very likely the cause of the deterioration). I cover my plotter with a dark, dust proof cover (made for a small BBQ grill). It was less than $12.00 at Home Depot.



JB

 

[James Burke]

On the post above, I forgot to mention that the baby powder gets "absorbed" into the sticky rubber and does not remain dusty. You shouldn't have any issues with baby powder residue on prints or vinyl so long as you remove the excess.


JB

 

[Jillbeans]

What I did when mine did this was cut a length of glass etch vinyl (because it has a bit of a "tooth" and is not slippy as we say in Pittsburgh) about 1" wide and as long as the arm. I applied it very carefully, lifting up the arm like you do when you are loading vinyl. You have to make sure that the vinyl covers the black stuff completely, and overlaps itself just slightly when you roll it up. It lasted for several years like that.

Love....Jill

 

[Jase]

Hi John we had the same problem, used baby powder for a while until I found out replacements were only £40ish from Spandex. Hope that solves that one.

Jase

 

[Cross Signs]

Per good advice from the plotter doctor:

Remove the bail roller from the plotter and carefully cut off the sticky rubber and clean the steel rod thoroughly. Go to the auto parts store and find some rubber fuel line hose with the inside diameter the same size as the bail roller rod. The inside diameter may be a touch smaller, and you will have to push it on from one end and keep steady pressure at that same end in order to keep the hose moving. Try not to get any twist in the hose.


JB

+1

 

[raypa]

I used the technique Jim mentions above as I was also advised to do this by the plotter dr. Go to any auto parts store and get 3/16" or 4.8mm gas fuel line. It will cost you about $2.00. Then lube the inside with soap and slide it on. It works wonders. You will cuss, sweat and cuss some more to get it on, but at the end of the day. you only spent $2.00 or less. (isn't that like a 1/3 pound in the UK now)

It's only a bailer and this fix has been working great for me for the last year. I run vynil and monument stencil.

Ray

 

[stitchup]

I used the technique Jim mentions above as I was also advised to do this by the plotter dr. Go to any auto parts store and get 3/16" or 4.8mm gas fuel line. It will cost you about $2.00. Then lube the inside with soap and slide it on. It works wonders. You will cuss, sweat and cuss some more to get it on, but at the end of the day. you only spent $2.00 or less. (isn't that like a 1/3 pound in the UK now)

It's only a bailer and this fix has been working great for me for the last year. I run vynil and monument stencil.

Ray

Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply and help.

As I'm all for saving money, I do like the rubber tube idea and will give it a go later.

Just a quick question before I get to it, are there any hurdles to overcome in getting the bail arm off? I think it just floats on it metal rod shaft. Is it a case of just sliding it fully to one end and then applying a little outward pressure at the other to disengage it?

Cheers

John

 

[Fred Weiss]

Just a quick question before I get to it, are there any hurdles to overcome in getting the bail arm off? I think it just floats on it metal rod shaft. Is it a case of just sliding it fully to one end and then applying a little outward pressure at the other to disengage it?

Cheers

John

No. You would likely break the bail that holds the roller and holds the punched vinyl on the sprocket pins as well. You will need to get a hex wrench that fits the stainless steel shoulder screw that holds the bail on either end and unscrew one or the other bails to remove it. This will allow the bail roller to then be removed as well. When you've completed the repair, reassemble by reversing the procedure. You should also get some thread locking fluid and apply it to the hex shoulder bolt threads before screwing it into the threaded hole in the aluminum side so it doesn't work its way out in the future.