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Suggestions Hardware/install method for changeable leasing signs?

White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
We've got a few of these to build for a customer, who changes their own inserts. We're making 6-ish or so and they don't have very much turnover at all, so they won't be changed often by any means.

I'm having a hard time deciding what to use to attach the changeable "banner" part - I was thinking standoffs so customer could just spin the caps off, remove old insert and install new sign and put caps back, but I'm not sure how that would look/work on the backside of the main panel.

These will be single sided for the most part, and may or may not have access to the backsides once they install them.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Pic w/ rough mockup attached.
 

Attachments

  • Leasing panels.jpg
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JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
I've done it with locktite and counter sink screws on a multitenant structure that the landlord was tired of different shades of white panels. Standoffs come in all flavors ya know, go for one with a threaded barrel, thread a carriage or elevator bolt from the back side of the substrate through the barrel, and use the female caps to go right on the end of the bolt after the acm is put on. Ideally the square shank on the bolt will keep it from free spinning.
 
White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
JBurton said:
I've done it with locktite and counter sink screws on a multitenant structure that the landlord was tired of different shades of white panels. Standoffs come in all flavors ya know, go for one with a threaded barrel, thread a carriage or elevator bolt from the back side of the substrate through the barrel, and use the female caps to go right on the end of the bolt after the acm is put on. Ideally the square shank on the bolt will keep it from free spinning.
Click to expand...

Good ideas, thanks. Any concerns w/ stainless steel standoffs if they're going to be in contact with ACM and/or another bolt? Maybe safer to just go with aluminum standoffs...... ?
 
White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
Boudica said:
Velcro? or if that's not strong/vandal proof enough duralock?
Click to expand...
Ehhh....I'd be nervous with just velcro. They don't have a lot of vacancies so changeovers will be pretty rare. I also have to keep in mind what it will look like when the insert is removed.

Sorry, forgot to mention, the idea is that the main back panel reads "Fully leased" like in the mockup, and an overlay is only installed when there is a vacancy.
 
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Why get all fancy ??



Can-You-Put-A-Nut-On-Self-Tapping-Screws.jpg
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
CanuckSigns said:
what if you used threaded inserts, they have a very course outer thread that would bite into 6mm ACM easily then just use machine bolts to fasten the panel on.

Click to expand...
Close to a rivnut, but rivnuts expand when installed. I'd recommend them over threaded inserts in this situation as the threaded inserts are standard thread, making removal possibly a pain with resetting the inserts when the bolt sticks in them.
 
White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
CanuckSigns said:
what if you used threaded inserts, they have a very course outer thread that would bite into 6mm ACM easily then just use machine bolts to fasten the panel on.

Click to expand...

Thanks Scott, I like this idea. Just found out most of the signs won't have an overlay sign at first so standoffs won't work. (Don't want a bunch of threads sticking out of the signs, will look ugly)

We're going to CNC the overlay panels so we can make sure hole placement is precise enough that customer shouldn't have issues threading a bolt into the main panel.
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
White Haus said:
Good to know, thanks! Not familiar with these, do you need a rivet run to insert them?
Click to expand...
Not necessarily, they sell a tool for them, or you can just run a bolt through, put a nut on the other side, and tighten them down slowly with the nut, but this takes 2 people if the panel is large and you risk not seating the nut flush. The kit with a tool isn't too expensive:


They are great for all sorts of removable mounting points, like in a truck bed or trailer, but do not use them for overhead lifting.
 
White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
JBurton said:
Not necessarily, they sell a tool for them, or you can just run a bolt through, put a nut on the other side, and tighten them down slowly with the nut, but this takes 2 people if the panel is large and you risk not seating the nut flush. The kit with a tool isn't too expensive:


They are great for all sorts of removable mounting points, like in a truck bed or trailer, but do not use them for overhead lifting.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you. Going to order one in, looks like it would come in handy!
 
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