Help with printed contour cut wall graphics

[MrDesignGuy]

I've read all the information about this subject that I could find on this site and just have a few specific issues and questions I need help with. Last week I had a job to apply some printed contour cut graphics to an interior painted wall. This graphic is about 90" w x 48" h. I printed on oracal 3651, let outgas for about 30 hours, then contour cut without laminating. I then applied a mask, transfer rite 582U med tack transfer tape. As I applied the graphic, it became apparent it was not sticking very well. The transfer tape would not even come off the graphic without lifting completely off the wall. I called the client and found out the paint was a matte latex paint. Ugghh! I told him I would do my best, three painstaking hours later I had the graphic applied, but knew it wouldn't be long before it would come off, as it was already edge curling. The very next day, it had completely fallen down!

I have been told oil-based paints are most receptive, and have read on here that semi-gloss and gloss latex paints are better than the matte/flat latex paint. The client would rather not repaint the wall, it is huge. I would like to know if anybody knows of a solvent vinyl that can be used on the matte latex paint? It needs to be thin enough to contour cut, I don't think photo tex would work for this application. Not sure about the heavier 6 mil vinyls either, too thick to cut? Maybe a 2 mil cast with permanent adhesive? In the end I may have to convince him that the wall must be repainted in order for him to have his graphics. I thought I'd ask the experts here first. Thanks in advance!

 

[Slamdunkpro]

How long ago was the wall painted? We do quite a few interior applies with 3165 on matte painted drywall. The only time we have issues is when the wall was painted within the last week or so.

For a more aggressive adhesive try Arlon 8000.

 

[bayshorecreations]

A) Dont use transfer tape. It's not needed.
B) I agree with the Arlon. I tried using the Oracal on some stuff and always got edge curl.
C) Does it have to be removable? Use a regular vinyl if it does not need to be removed.

 

[MrDesignGuy]

The wall was painted months ago. The graphics do not need to be removed. This is why I originally used Oracal 3651 with a permanent adhesive. Is the Arlon 8000 a permanent adhesive as well?

 

[MrDesignGuy]

The client wants me to just sand the wall where the area of the graphic will go to rough up the area. He thinks the graphic will adhere easier. Is this logical? Will it even work? In my opinion it won't. Any advice?

 

[stickermonkey]

3M has a rough textured surface film that is excellent!! We learned how to use it just this past week. I can't remember the product code for it...but any 3M Graphic film reseller will be able to let you know. You do have to use heat (1000 degrees f) to install it...but it's really cool. This stuff goes on a brick wall like paint. Very cool.

 

[Slamdunkpro]

A) Dont use transfer tape. It's not needed.

I disagree here - if it's contour cut with any gaps or strong contours and not laminated it's really tough to get 3165 to go on drywall without any stretch or distortion without transfer tape. Use the lowest tack tape you can get.

Is the Arlon 8000 a permanent adhesive as well?

Oh yeah.

The client wants me to just sand the wall where the area of the graphic will go to rough up the area. He thinks the graphic will adhere easier. Is this logical? Will it even work? In my opinion it won't. Any advice?

Arlon 8000

 

[stickermonkey]

3M has a rough textured surface film that is excellent!! We learned how to use it just this past week. I can't remember the product code for it...but any 3M Graphic film reseller will be able to let you know. You do have to use heat (1000 degrees f) to install it...but it's really cool. This stuff goes on a brick wall like paint. Very cool.

Oh..I forgot...they do insist you use the lam that goes with it too and the lam is what can take the high heat when applying the film. It's awesome...we applied a peice that was pretty small but it was really impressive when finished.

 

[Neil]

Oracal has a product specially for this type of application - 638M wall art.
The "M" is for Matte which is what you want.
I've used it on matte latex it works really well. Cuts and weeds just like normal vinyl.
Sanding will help to level out any high spots beforehand.

And they can remove it later when they want to - unlike the Arlon 8000 which will bring half the wall down if they try to pull it off.

 

[MrDesignGuy]

Oracal has a product specially for this type of application - 638M wall art.

Is this vinyl solvent printable or is is just cut vinyl?

 

[32bantum]

3651 or 3165?

 

[jiarby]

Paint the wall with some eggshell clear to give your decal something to cling to.

 

[MrDesignGuy]

3651 or 3165?

3651

 

[MrDesignGuy]

I just finished installing the graphic printed on 3651. with 210 overlaminate. I waited nearly 72 hours before laminating and contour cutting. I used no transfer tape to install. The client lightly sanded the surface himself and insisted I just try installing the graphic. As of now, it is holding quite well. I can tell the adhesive is not bonding to the surface, it will lift easily if pulled up. I told him to keep an eye on it over the next few days for edge curling. Hopefully I got this headache out of the way finally! I will try to post some photos soon. Thanks for all the info supplied to me from you guys, I appreciate the help!

 

[Neil]

Re 638M Wall Art:

Is this vinyl solvent printable or is is just cut vinyl?

It's solvent printable. Has a soft pvc feel to it and a weird clingy but not aggressive adhesive. You can even reposition the graphics.

If (when) you have a problem with the 3651 coming off, you can fix it with spray adhesive. Something like 3M super 77.

Take a big piece of backing sheet with you to protect the wall from overspray. Tape it across bottom half of graphic, pull the top half off and let it fall down over the backing sheet. Spray the adhesive side with the Super 77. Let it tack up and then re-apply the graphic.

Vice versa for the bottom half.

 

[Salmoneye]

Sanding the wall would make it worse not better.

 

[MrDesignGuy]

Sanding the wall would make it worse not better.

My thoughts precisely. I tried to explain this to the customer, but he is one of those "know-it-all" stubborn types!

 

[MrDesignGuy]

Re 638M Wall Art:



It's solvent printable. Has a soft pvc feel to it and a weird clingy but not aggressive adhesive. You can even reposition the graphics.

If (when) you have a problem with the 3651 coming off, you can fix it with spray adhesive. Something like 3M super 77.

Take a big piece of backing sheet with you to protect the wall from overspray. Tape it across bottom half of graphic, pull the top half off and let it fall down over the backing sheet. Spray the adhesive side with the Super 77. Let it tack up and then re-apply the graphic.

Vice versa for the bottom half.

This help couldn't have come at a better time. The graphic I installed just on Friday is already edge curling. I may need to just use a bit of spray adhesive to tack the edges down. Unless there are any other suggestions that might be better.

 

[G-Artist]

I am not recommending this for the job at-hand but a thought for any installs down the road.

Try rubber cement. Buy it at any office supply or art store. Inside the cap is an applicator brush. Brush a small amount on both the wall and the graphic. Wait just a few moments then mash them together. Squeegee lightly but firmly. Hold it in place with your thumb if necessary for a few moments, then squeegee. Residue which has seeped out can be gently cleaned off with an artgum eraser once the glue dries with no damage to either the wall or the graphic.

I have fixed all kinds of wallpaper, both paper and vinyl with that stuff (beats using wall glue for a variety of reasons) and it has held for years. A lot less messier than spray glue. BTW, most spray glue over spray can be cleaned in the same manner by using an artgum eraser. Many spray glues use rubber contact cement as a base along with other additives. At least they did years ago.

Try it sometime. Nothing to lose by testing and if it fails to do the job, it cleans off easily.

Just a thought.

Personally, I would love to get a graphic printed on vinyl that has no adhesive on the back side and apply it like I would any vinyl wallpaper - using wall paste. Fun experiment. It just might work.

 

[GAC05]

Personally, I would love to get a graphic printed on vinyl that has no adhesive on the back side and apply it like I would any vinyl wallpaper - using wall paste. Fun experiment. It just might work.

http://www.dreamscapedirect.com/

wayne k
guam usa