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How To Cut Aluminum Composite Material

caribmike

Retired with a Side Hustle
Weirdly, in all my years making signs, I've never used ACM. I've been thinking about buying a few years to play with.

How do you cut this product down to size?
 

Boudica

I'm here for Educational Purposes
Very sharp blades, and lot's of swipes. after you cut through the first skin of aluminum and the composite, move to the edge of the table and bend it back and forth until it snaps. You will have a sharp lip on that edge, so get out the Sander.
When you can justify the expense, a keen cut is a game changer. Cuts like buttah.
 

DL Signs

Never go against the family
You can do it manually like Boudica does. We just use a panel saw, but you can use a skill saw (with correct blade), jig saw for shapes. Stomp shear works good, router, cnc if you have one... any will work Just use a sanding block, file, or de-bur tool to clean any rough or sharp edges.
Shops will use any/ all of the above, whatever works best for the volume they do, and what equipment they have.
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
You can score and snap smaller pieces but for everything else just treat it like it's wood. Table saws, band saws, circular saws, jig saws, etc. The sharp edges left by whatever method you use are not ragged, they are straight but bent up and down. They are far better dealt with by reshaping rather than abrasives. To reshape an ACM edge run a round[ed] metal bar down the edge at a 30-45 degree angle plus or minus ,depending. I have a small piece of a satisfyingly heavy brass bar I keep just for this purpose. If you do this right you should end up with an edge very close to the factory edge. A distant second choice is a deburring tool. Abrasives are the tool of choice for mouth breathing semi-literates.
 

gnubler

Active Member
Cuts like buttah.
Track saw! Like buttah. I imagine a circular saw would also work fine if you have a guide to run along. I also use a jigsaw for rounded/contoured cuts. Before I got the track saw I was mainly cutting by hand and it was a huge PITA.

Any saw you use is going to make a big mess of black shavings from the plastic core..."rat turds" as someone here once termed it.
 

Boudica

I'm here for Educational Purposes
This is what we use now. No mess, no sharp edges.
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Humble PM

Mostly tolerates architects
Gotta say Steeltrak.

Many years ago had a client wanted just under 8x3' on DiBond, bigger than our steeltrak. Clamped down the big purple ruler, made the cuts on front face with a stanley knife, and then, how to bend and snap the off cut...?
Ended up "clamping" the 12' off cut by sandwiching and screwing through the two 1" sheets of MDF of the bench top, and levering the 3' remainder.
Then some muppet put the result through the laminator, forgetting the "big brass rod".

Replacing the rollers on the laminator was not fun.

A very humple print muppet.
 

caribmike

Retired with a Side Hustle
You can do it manually like Boudica does. We just use a panel saw, but you can use a skill saw (with correct blade), jig saw for shapes. Stomp shear works good, router, cnc if you have one... any will work Just use a sanding block, file, or de-bur tool to clean any rough or sharp edges.
Shops will use any/ all of the above, whatever works best for the volume they do, and what equipment they have.
Thanks for your advise...what type of blade for a Skil Saw or Table Saw would you recommend?
 

The Sign Goddess

Vinyl Slayer by trade
Panel Saw, Skill Saw, Jig Saw, Router or Utility Knife with a good blade. Follow any of these with a de-burring tool to take the "edge" off that is created when cutting.
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
If I have a lot of, lets say 1'x4' panels to cut. Will stack 3 4x8x3mm ACM together and line up using a couple of clamps and use my track saw at the right depth and cut what I need. Then 120 grit paper on a sanding block and run it over the edges to achieve a smooth finish.
 
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