How to draw accurate vectors on photo with real measurements

[Blacksmith Window Tint]

Hi all from Europe, Finland =) I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I came across this site when I was looking for tips to help me out with my project.

With this thread I'd like to ask how would you do this if you had to.

I'm trying to make cut patterns from vehicle windows to cut window film in my Summa D160 plotter. This is how I first tried to do this:

First I used a magic marker to draw a clear line to where I would normally cut my tint pattern and took a photo from it. I know the glass has a slight curve so I tried to take a photo from the middle without an angle.

Then I used a software called Super Vectorizer 2 (I use Mac) to get a vector line, saved and opened the file in Inkscape to clean everything else except the cutline of course.

After cleaning vector image I tried to scale the cutline to the right size to match the real measurements I had drawn to the car window: I simply clicked "maintain the aspect ratio", gave a new width and thought I was done, just saved the file to pdf and sent the file to plotter. But... the patterns are not good.

So, I tried to cut the pattern first by hand (this is now from a different window), placed the tint on a flat glass and took a photo:

I tried the same steps after this but i didn't succeed. Still the patterns are not correct, some times they are off more than 1,5 inches..

So, as wrote on the top, how would you do this if you had to? Is it even possible to get accurate cut when the staring point is only a photo from a phone?

I can draw with AutoCad but I'm looking for a lazy guys option here

Thanks beforehand!

-Aleksi

 

[letterman7]

Typically the tinters here cover the entire window, not just the portion that's "clear". Put the tint on the entire window, overlapping edges, and trim to fit. You won't be able to generate very accurate patterns only from photos. You can't translate 2D into 3D without issues. If you really want a true pattern, you'll need to tape paper to the window and physically draw your pattern. Then lay the paper flat and scan or photo from there. Lots of trial and error.

 

[AF]

Autocad, paper template from window and plenty of measurements. Do this all the time and accuracy is as close as you want it, more reference measurements equals more accuracy (particularly at curves). From Autocad, you can export to a file format your vector software likes.

 

[Pauly]

You're kidding me... photos? cutting paper and scanning? Seriously?

First off, I'd be doing this in illustrator because that's what i like to use for vector drawings.

Go get a ruler and a protractor. Start at the bottom. Measure the lengths of each like. to get the angles, use a protractor. add the radiuses in later.
Draw it on paper first, then draw it on the computer.

 

[letterman7]

You're kidding me... photos? cutting paper and scanning? Seriously?
Do it on paper first, then draw it on the computer.

Yes, seriously. What, in your description, varies from creating a paper template? A paper template is going to give you correct variations in window curves.. drawing from "lengths" and adding in radii won't.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

I am really confused here. Why are you not doing the whole window? If you did the whole window do you just trim around the edges? That window looks very dark. I'm not a tinting person, just wondering what is going on here.

 

[Pauly]

Yes, seriously. What, in your description, varies from creating a paper template? A paper template is going to give you correct variations in window curves.. drawing from "lengths" and adding in radii won't.

It does no where say create a paper template. draw it on paper. write it on paper. use a notepad to get your numbers down. how ever you feel. Then do it on computer.
Yes it will work. this is childs play. if you know how to use a ruler and protractor.

Paper templates are only usefull if you're making a template then tracing it on some other material.

 

[Blacksmith Window Tint]

I am really confused here. Why are you not doing the whole window? If you did the whole window do you just trim around the edges? That window looks very dark. I'm not a tinting person, just wondering what is going on here.

Hi, I understand your confusion because I didn't explain my self too good, sorry about that.. The window in the photo is already tinted a while a go. It's my own car and I just wanted to practise cutting the film with a plotter.

 

[AKwrapguy]

Hi all from Europe, Finland =) I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I came across this site when I was looking for tips to help me out with my project.

With this thread I'd like to ask how would you do this if you had to.

I'm trying to make cut patterns from vehicle windows to cut window film in my Summa D160 plotter. This is how I first tried to do this:

First I used a magic marker to draw a clear line to where I would normally cut my tint pattern and took a photo from it. I know the glass has a slight curve so I tried to take a photo from the middle without an angle.

Then I used a software called Super Vectorizer 2 (I use Mac) to get a vector line, saved and opened the file in Inkscape to clean everything else except the cutline of course.

After cleaning vector image I tried to scale the cutline to the right size to match the real measurements I had drawn to the car window: I simply clicked "maintain the aspect ratio", gave a new width and thought I was done, just saved the file to pdf and sent the file to plotter. But... the patterns are not good.

So, I tried to cut the pattern first by hand (this is now from a different window), placed the tint on a flat glass and took a photo:

I tried the same steps after this but i didn't succeed. Still the patterns are not correct, some times they are off more than 1,5 inches..

So, as wrote on the top, how would you do this if you had to? Is it even possible to get accurate cut when the staring point is only a photo from a phone?

I can draw with AutoCad but I'm looking for a lazy guys option here

Thanks beforehand!

-Aleksi

So the 'lazy' way to do this, since the window probably has some sort of curve to it would be to get some paper and make and actual template. You can regular paper and just tape several pieces together. Use a pencil to mark the edges around the whole window. Now cut out the shape and use a sharpie and go around the edges to give yourself a solid line to trace. No you can do this one of several ways. The quickest will be to put a 1"x1" square onto your template put it flat on a wall and take a picture of it and trace it in a vector program and use the 1"x1" square to size it. The better way will be to scan it in and trace it if possible.

 

[Blacksmith Window Tint]

Nice to see this many replies already I'm a professional tinter with + 5 years experience so I'm able to cut the pattern I need with window film on the window. So, I think I should just cut the film like I've done so far, place the ready pattern of flat glass and start drawing with cad. I'm also thinking that I should place a millimeter paper (like grid on software) on the other side of the glass to help align the film..

 

[Ian Stewart-Koster]

The Lazy way, and professional way are not equal.
Do it right, or not at all. So you want accuracy or wobbles?
If you want to vectorise the shape and cut it on the plotter, then you have to accurately get the shape into your plotting program.
There's only one way, and that is manually entered. There are many ways to do ths, as mentioned above.

 

[GAC05]

I would take your hand cut tint and lay it down on grid paper. Line up a base line and then go to work in a drawing program. Draw it out using your pattern as the reference. Set the grid in your app to match the paper. Measure out lengths angles curve radius etc.
If you don't want to do that - trace the contour of your hand cut pattern onto the grid paper.
Section the grid paper down small enough to go through your desktop scanner. Mark each section so you can reassemble the pattern in your drawing program. Draw your new pattern from that.
You don't want to use a scan vectorized - it will never be as smooth or accurate as a pattern laid out with the right tools.

When you photograph something there is always going to be some distortion from the lens, distance from the object, or the camera not being 100% perpendicular to the target.

wayne k
guam usa