How to Laminate Gold Engine Turn Overlaid on Black

[hhg98]

Hi All,
This truck was in our shop and I have no idea how their decals were done. I should've grabbed a photo before it left, but they had gold engine turn overlaid on black and the two layers were laminated together but the laminate was bigger by about 1/4 inch so it sealed the edges completely. We work with a lot of overlays and specialty materials so I'd love to know how to do this. I'm sure it increases the longevity of specialty vinyl. I know we can laminate layered graphics together but I didn't understand how they got a 1/4 inch bleed on whatever clear material they used as laminate. Any ideas? Again, sorry I don't have a photo. I might be able to get one later.

 

[Billct2]

We do this on all RealGold truck lettering. Apply clear cast vinyl with an extra 1/8" or so trap. We Edge print the black but the technique is the same for layer lettering.
It can be done prior to install on the roll but it's much easier to do on the substrate

 

[hhg98]

We do this on all RealGold truck lettering. Apply clear cast vinyl with an extra 1/8" or so trap. We Edge print the black but the technique is the same for layer lettering.
It can be done prior to install on the roll but it's much easier to do on the substrate

What kind of clear cast vinyl do you use? Do you throw it on a plotter and have it cut to shape and then lay it over top of the graphic?

 

[Gino]

Yep. We just use 'offset path' in illy and it's a go. Normally a good cast laminate

 

[kcollinsdesign]

Signgold (Real Gold, Quick Gold, whatever it's called) is 22k gold sputtered onto vinyl and comes with a laminate already on it. I see no real reason to laminate it unless it is subject to excessive abuse (fire engines come to mind). If I stick it on cast vinyl (for black outlines, for example) I don't do anything to it. If I stick out on a substrate (like a painted surface), the I edge seal it with ONE SHOT 4005 UV blocker acrylic clear (test first, this can damage paint). Convenient pens are available (they are loaded with the same stuff) but I find a small quill works better. I think laminating the whole Signgold graphic with clear vinyl would shorten its life (the laminate would start to fail before the Tedlar laminate on the Signgold). I almost never laminate or clear real gold leaf.

Laminating or clearing SignGold (or real gold leaf) changes its refractive index (real gold just reflects). It doesn't look like real gold anymore (to me). Of course, most people won't notice or care.

 

[ProSignTN]

Fire Engines are by far the most protected graphics of all the vehicles we have ever lettered. They stay inside a nice climate controlled bay ninety percent of the time and get washed on a very regular basis.

 

[hhg98]

Signgold (Real Gold, Quick Gold, whatever it's called) is 22k gold sputtered onto vinyl and comes with a laminate already on it. I see no real reason to laminate it unless it is subject to excessive abuse (fire engines come to mind). If I stick it on cast vinyl (for black outlines, for example) I don't do anything to it. If I stick out on a substrate (like a painted surface), the I edge seal it with ONE SHOT 4005 UV blocker acrylic clear (test first, this can damage paint). Convenient pens are available (they are loaded with the same stuff) but I find a small quill works better. I think laminating the whole Signgold graphic with clear vinyl would shorten its life (the laminate would start to fail before the Tedlar laminate on the Signgold). I almost never laminate or clear real gold leaf.

Laminating or clearing SignGold (or real gold leaf) changes its refractive index (real gold just reflects). It doesn't look like real gold anymore (to me). Of course, most people won't notice or care.

Gotcha. Thanks for the insight!

 

[hhg98]

Fire Engines are by far the most protected graphics of all the vehicles we have ever lettered. They stay inside a nice climate controlled bay ninety percent of the time and get washed on a very regular basis.

I would agree