• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

How would you attach this HDU sign to a Steel Bracket?

Barry Jenicek

New Member
So, I have a client who wants an HDU 4’ x 12’ x 1.5” sign. Yes, the sign will be in two panels. I will be using my CNC router to clean out the background etc.

The HDU substrate will weigh just short of 100 lbs and, naturally, will need a main support bracket to hold it between two 6x6 posts. The support bracket will be fabricated using 2” x 2” square tubing.

I will need to attach the sign to the main bracket and thought I would ask for ideas from the group as to how you would approach such a scenario? Would you simply drill a hole through the HDU and the bracket and then use a hex bolt or would you do something more elaborate to support the entire sign? If you would attach and additional bracket to the HDU, how would you adhere it to prevent tear-out? What say you?

So, keeping in mind that the 18 lb. HDU substrate will be 1.5” thick, and 90+ pounds, and the support bracket will be 2 x 2 square tubing. How would you attach it?

Attached is a rendering of the Bracket and sign. Thanks for your input.

Barry
 

Attachments

  • Frame Layout4.jpg
    Frame Layout4.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 497

tbullo

Superunknown
If fasteners through the face is acceptable, just through bolt with carriage bolts. If you want a hidden fastener look, then epoxy studs into the back of the sign to go through your frame. I've done this both ways. Really depends one what the face of the sign looks like.
 

Kottwitz-Graphics

New Member
And in all honesty, I would use a sheet on the back, and make it overall thicker. I prefer the finishes look, rather than an exposed frame on the back...yes it will cost more, but look better...

Just my 2 pennies in the bucket...
 

Brian Guthrie

New Member
18# HDU versus steel when it comes to thermal expansion is incredible. The 12' dimension will grow ±.223" over the temperature ranges (0-150º F). I never hard mount HDU but pocket the frame inside the HDU in order to allow expansion in the pockets. Slotting the HDU works as well but needs a washer or something pretty ugly to cover the slot from the outside. HDU is a great material just needs special attention when mounting and finishing.
 

msigns

New Member
So, I have a client who wants an HDU 4’ x 12’ x 1.5” sign. Yes, the sign will be in two panels. I will be using my CNC router to clean out the background etc.

The HDU substrate will weigh just short of 100 lbs and, naturally, will need a main support bracket to hold it between two 6x6 posts. The support bracket will be fabricated using 2” x 2” square tubing.

I will need to attach the sign to the main bracket and thought I would ask for ideas from the group as to how you would approach such a scenario? Would you simply drill a hole through the HDU and the bracket and then use a hex bolt or would you do something more elaborate to support the entire sign? If you would attach and additional bracket to the HDU, how would you adhere it to prevent tear-out? What say you?

So, keeping in mind that the 18 lb. HDU substrate will be 1.5” thick, and 90+ pounds, and the support bracket will be 2 x 2 square tubing. How would you attach it?

Attached is a rendering of the Bracket and sign. Thanks for your input.

Barry
Try attaching aluminum angle on back to hang on frame and use self tappers
 

tbullo

Superunknown
Signfoam's website has some installation tips. We have been using Signfoam since the first version, and have never had any problem hard mounting. We did some in the 80's that were 4'x16', hard mounted for a local health service no issues. We recently removed them to change out their logos and shaved them down for use as smaller signs they wanted. I forgot how annoying that yellow powder dust was.
 

Rick

Certified Enneadecagon Designer
Signfoam's website has some installation tips. We have been using Signfoam since the first version, and have never had any problem hard mounting. We did some in the 80's that were 4'x16', hard mounted for a local health service no issues. We recently removed them to change out their logos and shaved them down for use as smaller signs they wanted. I forgot how annoying that yellow powder dust was.

Sad to say, Signfoam's only solution for this type of install is bolting through the face...

You can add a decorative element to the attachment.
Hide the attachment , plug, then paint over

If you can't drill a hole through the face and hide the mount, you might get creative by using their heavy hanging sign method keeping in mind that the sign will move a little. I would not rely on individual tee-nuts unless you can fashion a large enough flange, but fabricate a plate to act as one. While it may be true the sign may move .25" in the worst conditions, if that is from center, then it's not a lot of movement and you can allow for that.

I have only done this method a few times and though I know the signs are still up, they were not 12' wide.
 

Attachments

  • HDU TO FRAME.jpeg
    HDU TO FRAME.jpeg
    119.1 KB · Views: 510

Sandman

New Member
I've done several of these by routing a channel in the back so that it will accept a 2" x 1/4" steel flat. I drill holes in the flat and in your case drill matching holes in your 2" square steel tube. Lay the flat in the routed channel to mark where your holes are. Then use a forstner bit to drill a fairly large (on big signs I go 1 2 1.25 inch dia.) Drill deep enough to go about double the thickness of a hex bolt's head. For extra strength I usually drill twice to make the pockets look like an eight. I fill the channel almost to the top with epoxy, insert the stainless steel hex head bolts through the holes in the steel flat and drop everything into the channel. Add more epoxy to bring it flush to the surface. Your studs will match the holes in your 2 inch square tube so slide them in and install nuts. I've never had a failure and by adding steel to the back of the HDU, the whole thing gets very stiff. Maybe for a 12 foot sign I'd go with 5/16" or 3/8 steel flat just to make sure. On small signs I will just paint the back. The last one I did I nailed the epoxy so perfectly that after painting the back you couldn't see the steel. But on big signs I usually epoxy a sheet of DiBond or Alupanel ACP to the back side. This provides even more stiffness.
 

Barry Jenicek

New Member
After reading all of your replies, I think I know how I am going to approach this. IF we get the job, I'll update this Post with pictures.

Thanks Again!!!
Barry
 
Top