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HP L25500 3M IJ35C-10 Caldera Profile?

ProColorGraphics

New Member
I just use the Gloss Vinyl profiles that came with Caldera. The only thing I changed is turnded the heat down to 50/95. I have found with this vinyl, if you have too much heat, it melts and bubbles the backing paper.
 

Mr. Sign Pro

New Member
I have been using the HP Permanent Gloss Adhesive Vinyl 10 Pass Profile. I find that if I put the heat below 110 then my prints don't cure. If it's above 110 then I have some bubbling in the backing paper. It doesn't cause a huge problem but it's something I would like to take care of.
 

HulkSmash

New Member
the BEST profile to work in ij35 that ive found is the avery 1005 profile. Prints perfectly. I even use it for control tac. The control tac profile for caldera blows.
 

dypinc

New Member
Turn you cure heat down to where you need to and then set your passes to 12. If your ink is still not curing go to 16 pass.
 

ProColorGraphics

New Member
the BEST profile to work in ij35 that ive found is the avery 1005 profile. Prints perfectly. I even use it for control tac. The control tac profile for caldera blows.

I will have to try that profile. I agree, the 3M profiles I have used really suck! The only problem I have had with IJ35 is the backer bubbling. The vinyl still works when you go to apply it, just makes it look like crap and can have troubles laminating.
 

dypinc

New Member
I print everything on 8 pass, and it looks flawless.. no need to do 12 or 16, that's absurd.

That was just a suggestion to get around the problem of too much ink lay down for people that for what every reason don't want to do their own linearization, light ink curves, ink limits, and profiles.

I agree 8 pass would probably be fine as long as your light ink curves, and ink limits, are set correctly for the media and the environment the printer in in.
 
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HulkSmash

New Member
I will have to try that profile. I agree, the 3M profiles I have used really suck! The only problem I have had with IJ35 is the backer bubbling. The vinyl still works when you go to apply it, just makes it look like crap and can have troubles laminating.

curing should be on 105c. and dry should be around 50 or 55c.

For control tac i cure at 95-100
 
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