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HP L260 and Drytac reveal 7mil compatibility

bigben

Not a newbie
So I have an HP 260 and just tried the Drytac reveal 7mil backlit film. From the spec, it's compatible with latex and UV ink. With my other film, I use the generic backlit film. With the Drytac, I had adjust the heat from 90 celcius to 110 celcius and the ink is still wet on heavy coverage. The problem is, at this temperature, the material warp a bit. So before I make some test by cranking the heat, is it possible that this material is not compatible for my generation of latex? Would it be the responsibility of my supplier when he know what printer I have?
 

bigben

Not a newbie
I just had a flash and went ton the drytac website to check the profile list. So my printer is listed for this material, but the profile is for Onyx and I have Caldera. If it was not a backlit film, I would create my own profile. So knowing that, what should I do and/or test? Thank you.
 

AF

New Member
Try HP Backlit profile, they may have one for Caldera. Ideal is to make your own but you will need access to a Barbieri.
 

spooledUP7

New Member
Like AF said above, try the HP Backlit profile as a base point, and then save out a new preset copy. The first thing I would do (if the out of the box preset wasn't cutting it) is change the temp to as low as it can go on the dryer and high on the curing. Then I would print a PMS Color chart (here is a process version. I can't find the PMS version but this will work http://andvel.bg/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/PANTONE-Process-Color.pdf
Then look for which colors are flooding. If it's all the rich colors such as Reds, Magentas, Reflex, etc then you can play with your color curve levels and lower them all across the board. If it's just certain colors I would start with lower the curve to 70% then save the preset and print another sample color chart. 30% lower is a huge amount and all the inks should look dry. If they are dry then raise the limits back up half way adding 15% or 85% limit and reprint the chart.
The idea is to find your limits quickly by cutting your experiments in halves to narrow down your results. If 30% lower didn't produce a dry result then you know your limits are way off and perhaps the profile isn't the best for you and so you could start with another profile.
Other ways to change the results is to use a higher pass count and bi-directional vs uni-directional. The higher pass count will deposit the same ink limits but at a slower rate giving the print more time to dry. Same with uni directional vs bi-directional where blowing ink in one direction only gives the pass more time to dry before receiving more ink.

The lower temp suggestion is always my aim, especially with heat sensitive materials. It also has the added benefit of prolonging head life.

Best of luck.
 
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