artofacks1
New Member
Im having problems with skipping on chrome and holographic vinyl now. Man everything was great until now 
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HP Latex 800W
- Thread starter zspace
- Start date
P Wagner
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Not sure what you mean by 'skipping'. I have found that some metallic films can transport more reliably in both directions when attached to the Take-Up Reel. For example, Substance X1 Chrome film has a slippery backing liner and runs more reliably on the TUR.Im having problems with skipping on chrome and holographic vinyl now. Man everything was great until now
artofacks1
New Member
Right, I tried it on the take up reel. Same results
artofacks1
New Member
Attachments
balstestrat
Problem Solver
Usual advice. OMAS off and manual advance calibration.
artofacks1
New Member
I turned Omas off and I did manual advance.
I had to move on to other projects but will trouble shoot during the weekend.
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The new HP cop out from support.
The vinyl isn’t HP certified. I call b.s. on that. If the material is slipping the machine has problems.
They want to pick and choose who they help with this problem. Other 700/800 owners had their machine fixed cus of this.
By the way the same thing happens on reflective and holographic vinyls. The machine is promoted to make street reflective signs and they want to ignore the issue.
I should have switched to Epson when I had the chance smh ♂️
We had one of the first 800W's and while it is a bit finicky, we had none of the problems others seem to have had. I guess we didn't get a lemon.
3 years in we have had to replace a few parts but HP has warrantied some of that even though it is out of warranty.
I found the best way to get consistent results was to attach the take up reel and use the side guides. Some material like non-adhesive backlit requires a print head calibration first.
Had some head crashes with the side guides but I took them out to the vice in the fab shop and bend the outside edges down. Haven't had a head strike since, seems like the edges were sitting up too high.
We got the machine because we did a lot of vehicle wraps and needed to be able to print and lam a fix right away.
The White was a bonus and once I figured out the Sandwich print it's a bit of a game changer for exterior backlit signs, the colour satisfies everyone and looks good day and night.
Colorado M series wasn't out and even now would still be more money than anyone would be able to justify. If I was looking for a new printer today I would sure be looking at the math to see if I could justify a Canon.
3 years in we have had to replace a few parts but HP has warrantied some of that even though it is out of warranty.
I found the best way to get consistent results was to attach the take up reel and use the side guides. Some material like non-adhesive backlit requires a print head calibration first.
Had some head crashes with the side guides but I took them out to the vice in the fab shop and bend the outside edges down. Haven't had a head strike since, seems like the edges were sitting up too high.
We got the machine because we did a lot of vehicle wraps and needed to be able to print and lam a fix right away.
The White was a bonus and once I figured out the Sandwich print it's a bit of a game changer for exterior backlit signs, the colour satisfies everyone and looks good day and night.
Colorado M series wasn't out and even now would still be more money than anyone would be able to justify. If I was looking for a new printer today I would sure be looking at the math to see if I could justify a Canon.
balstestrat
Problem Solver
What's the input output tension in the profile?
You probably have to tune those. Sounds like too much input tension.
Last edited:
wrapz.be
New Member
It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview
balstestrat
Problem Solver
Yeah that really needs it. Use some other waste leader on it.
Why not attach the new media to a roll of old media on the take-up reel and then back up the media until the lead edge is barely past the print zone? make sure you have good heat resistant take to make to splice or you will have tape coming off in the curing zone.... but no need to waste more media when you attach to the take-up reel.It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview
oh, and I assume you guys have checked vacuum needed for this specific media (by running tests not from googling specs....) I have found when the media slips it can often be fixed by reducing the vacuum so it is just enough to keep media flat in the print zone. any more and it just causes more friction across the entire sheet in the print zone ---- leading to media slippage.
balstestrat
Problem Solver
The thing with 3M Clearview is that when it initially heats up during the startup process and then the printer pulls back already warm surface to start the print, it will stick to the metal "loading platen" down below.
And there's not much you can do about it. Maybe some innovative diy solution if you really print a lot of it but otherwise it's always jamming the first feet of the print.
Actually now writing about this I just remember that the "tiling" option will disable that initial warm-up phase.It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview
You should really try that with the clearview. Might solve the biggest issue.
interesting - I have not yet printed on the on the clearview, but I would think that the minimum vacuum needed to hold the media would be better than more...
there used to be a product for guillotine cutter beds called Prisco Slide - this was a good silicone lubricant that you would wipe as thin as possible on metal surfaces to allow the paper to freely slide. I have a similar silicone formulation that I try on problems like this. Care must be taken to only apply it where it is needed. (...it even allows magnetic media to slip through the Graphtec - though for other reasons I do not recommend cutting the magnets on the plotter....)