HP Latex 800W

[artofacks1]

Im having problems with skipping on chrome and holographic vinyl now. Man everything was great until now

 

[P Wagner]

Im having problems with skipping on chrome and holographic vinyl now. Man everything was great until now

Not sure what you mean by 'skipping'. I have found that some metallic films can transport more reliably in both directions when attached to the Take-Up Reel. For example, Substance X1 Chrome film has a slippery backing liner and runs more reliably on the TUR.

 

[artofacks1]

Not sure what you mean by 'skipping'. I have found that some metallic films can transport more reliably in both directions when attached to the Take-Up Reel. For example, Substance X1 Chrome film has a slippery backing liner and runs more reliably on the TUR.

Right, I tried it on the take up reel. Same results

 

[artofacks1]

Not sure what you mean by 'skipping'. I have found that some metallic films can transport more reliably in both directions when attached to the Take-Up Reel. For example, Substance X1 Chrome film has a slippery backing liner and runs more reliably on the TUR.

 

[balstestrat]

Usual advice. OMAS off and manual advance calibration.

 

[artofacks1]

Usual advice. OMAS off and manual advance calibration.

I turned Omas off and I did manual advance.

I had to move on to other projects but will trouble shoot during the weekend.
——
The new HP cop out from support.

The vinyl isn’t HP certified. I call b.s. on that. If the material is slipping the machine has problems.

They want to pick and choose who they help with this problem. Other 700/800 owners had their machine fixed cus of this.

By the way the same thing happens on reflective and holographic vinyls. The machine is promoted to make street reflective signs and they want to ignore the issue.

I should have switched to Epson when I had the chance smh ‍♂️

 

[wrapz.be]

I'm having the same issue on my 630W with HP clearview with PET liner.
It's loading correctly and moving perfectly untill I start printing, it justs doesn't move anymore, slips in the rollers.

 

[RabidOne]

We had one of the first 800W's and while it is a bit finicky, we had none of the problems others seem to have had. I guess we didn't get a lemon.
3 years in we have had to replace a few parts but HP has warrantied some of that even though it is out of warranty.
I found the best way to get consistent results was to attach the take up reel and use the side guides. Some material like non-adhesive backlit requires a print head calibration first.
Had some head crashes with the side guides but I took them out to the vice in the fab shop and bend the outside edges down. Haven't had a head strike since, seems like the edges were sitting up too high.
We got the machine because we did a lot of vehicle wraps and needed to be able to print and lam a fix right away.
The White was a bonus and once I figured out the Sandwich print it's a bit of a game changer for exterior backlit signs, the colour satisfies everyone and looks good day and night.
Colorado M series wasn't out and even now would still be more money than anyone would be able to justify. If I was looking for a new printer today I would sure be looking at the math to see if I could justify a Canon.

 

[balstestrat]

I'm having the same issue on my 630W with HP clearview with PET liner.
It's loading correctly and moving perfectly untill I start printing, it justs doesn't move anymore, slips in the rollers.

What's the input output tension in the profile?
You probably have to tune those. Sounds like too much input tension.

 

[wrapz.be]

What's the input output tension in the profile?
You probably have to tune those. Sounds like too much input tension.

It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview

 

[balstestrat]

Yeah that really needs it. Use some other waste leader on it.

 

[BigNate]

It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview

Why not attach the new media to a roll of old media on the take-up reel and then back up the media until the lead edge is barely past the print zone? make sure you have good heat resistant take to make to splice or you will have tape coming off in the curing zone.... but no need to waste more media when you attach to the take-up reel.

 

[BigNate]

oh, and I assume you guys have checked vacuum needed for this specific media (by running tests not from googling specs....) I have found when the media slips it can often be fixed by reducing the vacuum so it is just enough to keep media flat in the print zone. any more and it just causes more friction across the entire sheet in the print zone ---- leading to media slippage.

 

[balstestrat]

oh, and I assume you guys have checked vacuum needed for this specific media (by running tests not from googling specs....) I have found when the media slips it can often be fixed by reducing the vacuum so it is just enough to keep media flat in the print zone. any more and it just causes more friction across the entire sheet in the print zone ---- leading to media slippage.

The thing with 3M Clearview is that when it initially heats up during the startup process and then the printer pulls back already warm surface to start the print, it will stick to the metal "loading platen" down below.
And there's not much you can do about it. Maybe some innovative diy solution if you really print a lot of it but otherwise it's always jamming the first feet of the print.

It was pretty high in the clearview problem. Seems like I had to attach to the take up reel before printing.
Pretty expensive on 3M clearview

Actually now writing about this I just remember that the "tiling" option will disable that initial warm-up phase.
You should really try that with the clearview. Might solve the biggest issue.

 

[BigNate]

The thing with 3M Clearview is that when it initially heats up during the startup process and then the printer pulls back already warm surface to start the print, it will stick to the metal "loading platen" down below.
And there's not much you can do about it. Maybe some innovative diy solution if you really print a lot of it but otherwise it's always jamming the first feet of the print.

interesting - I have not yet printed on the on the clearview, but I would think that the minimum vacuum needed to hold the media would be better than more...

there used to be a product for guillotine cutter beds called Prisco Slide - this was a good silicone lubricant that you would wipe as thin as possible on metal surfaces to allow the paper to freely slide. I have a similar silicone formulation that I try on problems like this. Care must be taken to only apply it where it is needed. (...it even allows magnetic media to slip through the Graphtec - though for other reasons I do not recommend cutting the magnets on the plotter....)

 

[Jake Indiana]

There were a lot of issues with the Latex 800 when it launched. They seemed hit and miss. It’s kept me from upgrading our 570. Can anyone share more current experiences?

I have an HP 800W and its absolute garbage. We actually got them to replace our first one but the replacement has just as many problems. I've actually been trying to find a 570 to go back to. Throughout the last 2 years or so I've probably had 12 tech visits, replaced 40+ printheads and had a couple weeks of combined downtime.

 

[Jake Indiana]

A little late to the game here, but we have had 2 of the HP800W between our 2 locations. Nothing but nightmares from the start. We got it mainly because of the white capability and the 3 layer prints. We ended up returning one and buying 2 of the Epson R5070L. I would highly recommend the Epson for anyone that's looking for a good HP replacement that doesn't need the white. With our HP we had issues of panel lengths not matching up, color consistency was for the birds, vinyl waste was unbelievable, and there was so many little things we had to do to try to keep our print quality up to par. With the Epsons, there is nothing we need to do but hit print. Ink capacity on the L matches the HP800, and while print time may be a little slower, I know the end product will work. No more color shifting or random head strikes in the middle of the print. There are almost no little tricks that you have to learn to make this machine perform. We still have one HP because of the 3 layer printing for our back lit signs, but if Epson adds that capability to their printers we will be switching to that as soon as it proves itself!

I've had the same experience. Bought an HP 800W to have white ink but the machine is garbage. I know all of the HP techs in my area by name.

 

[balstestrat]

I have an HP 800W and its absolute garbage. We actually got them to replace our first one but the replacement has just as many problems. I've actually been trying to find a 570 to go back to. Throughout the last 2 years or so I've probably had 12 tech visits, replaced 40+ printheads and had a couple weeks of combined downtime.

That's too bad. There's not too much issues in the field any longer. 800 is pretty stable, I think about the same as 570 used to be.
I would say average machine has only 1 visit per year if maintenance is not counted.

40 printheads in 2 years doesn't really mean anything. If you printed 200 000sqft it's not great but not terrible either.

 

[Jake Indiana]

That's too bad. There's not too much issues in the field any longer. 800 is pretty stable, I think about the same as 570 used to be.
I would say average machine has only 1 visit per year if maintenance is not counted.

40 printheads in 2 years doesn't really mean anything. If you printed 200 000sqft it's not great but not terrible either.

Unfortunately it's not a total of 40 printheads, its about 40 printheads that actively fouled. Half were warrantied and replaced by HP and the other half were just out of warranty. I get the feeling they replaced my bad printer with another bad printer.