• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

I am so SICK of this problem!!! (lettering not sticking to painted walls)

depps74

New Member
Over the 20 years I been doing this this happened a few times here and there. but now its happening on almost every install with a colored wall. Specifically the material it happens most with is Oracal 631 exhibition matte vinyl on colored walls. We have adjusted the transfer tape, the type of paint used (low VOC paints are worst, but Benjamin Moore Aura seemed to work ok for awhile.)


If anyone has any sort of idea on how to prevent this from happening I am all ears, This problem has cost me countless hours of explanation, excuses and discounts to customers that are understandably furious with the results and amount of time it takes to install it.

Screen Shot 2023-01-20 at 12.07.27 PM.png
Screen Shot 2023-01-20 at 12.07.32 PM.png
Screen Shot 2023-01-20 at 12.07.27 PM.png
Screen Shot 2023-01-20 at 12.07.32 PM.png
Screen Shot 2023-01-20 at 12.08.47 PM.png
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
I'm sure you already do this but I post heat with a heat gun and my hand balled up in my hoodie sleeve. I really like to press the vinyl in the creaves of the wall and it looks like it's been painted on vs. vinyl.

As far as it not coming off the transfer paper, I haven't had too much of a problem with that yet.
 

visual800

Active Member
The walls have got be warm and I see your using matte colors, which, IMO are the worst to stick. I cannot explain that. oracal 751 and 651 are ususally good to go. the weather has a lot to do with it temperature wise
 

Signscorp

New Member
3M IJ180C works for us when we're worried about it. It's high tack, and long term. Obviously more expensive though
 

weyandsign

New Member
Depending on humidity, fresh painted walls take a while to cure. Go over it with a rivet brush to help stick it down
 

BigNate

New Member
.... a few of our sites use a paint that is claimed to be anti-graffiti - I had similar issues getting vinyl to stick to it. A few things that worked well, 1) got a sample from Substance that is for very low surface energy applications - like plastics, things in snowmobiles that get greasy, etc. (this WORKS WELL!) 2) to try to not have to use a special order vinyl for some walls, I have tried a few unconventional things - mostly things that attach the paints surface to make things easier to stick. I use a good wipe of isopropanol - working quick and trying to stay only to the area where the vinyl will go. I know I wiped enough when I see a little of the paint on the wipe - let it dry for a few seconds and apply the vinyl. I have not had any adhesion issues when using this technique - but you can rub too much and ruin the paint. (acetone works very well and 100 times faster - I have only used it on very small areas.)
 

d fleming

Premium Subscriber
I have some oracal 651 on am legion wall. Been there for a few years now. Was post heated. Any more I just do murals on phototex or comparable product just to avoid the problem you are having.
 

BigNate

New Member
Also I’d find out what type of paint they used sometimes if it’s a oil based paint it won’t stick.
I bet the Stuff from Substance (the sample I have is PM-2755) will stick to any oil based paint - as long as the paint is dry - this is from my limited experience with this. If you have a low surface-energy surface, use an adhesive rated for low-energy.
 

boardboy330

New Member
We stopped using 631 and started using 651. Works just as well for long term applications. Most walls are Semi or Satin and removes fine. Flat walls not so much.
 

johnnysigns

New Member
What tack transfer tape are you using Dave? I always have problems pulling high tack tape off plotter cut graphics for walls.
 

2B

Active Member
Test the wall before taking on the jobs ESPECIALLY if you are doing the installation!!!!!!

try wiping it down with alcohol
"scuff" the area the vinyl is going
use ONLY high-tack vinyl
If you need the "matte" finish, use matte lamination on high-tack vinyl
Use the LOWEST tack transfer tape you have
POST HEAT HEAVILY AND USE A ROLLER WHEEL
 

unclebun

Active Member
It really comes down to people painting their houses and businesses on the inside with paint that claims to clean more easily, "crayon wipes right off," "markers clean off easily," and so on. They do that by making the paint nonstick. And it is indeed nonstick.

The only way around it if they have used that kind of paint is high tack vinyl. It's sold for wall graphics. and for use in tough to adhere environments like on train cars, motorsports graphics for polyethylene vehicle bodies, plastic portable toilets, masonry walls, etc.
 

Dennis Schaub

New Member
I spray the transfer tape with windex before removing from wall, this will reduce the tack quite a bit. Then post heat as others have mentioned.
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
Don't use 631, high failure rate. Switched to permanent adhesive vinyl and 0 complaints, 631 was causing lots of complaints. Plus with the recent price increases on 631 its cheaper to print on common permanent vinyl
 

FireSprint.com

Trade Only Screen & Digital Sign Printing
Here's what you need to do. Use 3M's technique. I see this question asked so much, we put a blog article together to help bring all the parts together.
 

depps74

New Member
Don't use 631, high failure rate. Switched to permanent adhesive vinyl and 0 complaints, 631 was causing lots of complaints. Plus with the recent price increases on 631 its cheaper to print on common permanent vi

the thing is my customers all want matte, 651 is gloss only.
 

heyskull

New Member
A lot of emulsion paints now have wipe clean additives in them which can also cause issues with vinyl graphic installs.
No matter how much you heat them and what vinyl you use it will eventually start peeling.

SC
 
Top