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I think I killed my head

E

Electric Ave

New Member
SP-300V

Well . . I finally convinced myself that I could remove the black/cyan print head and dip it into an ultrasonic cleaner. Just a few mm like all the threads said.

Then I reinstalled it and ran a cleaning cycle then a test print. Absolutely no black or cyan printed. Repeat this 5 more times. Increase the volume of swearing between each test cycle.

I have trouble believing I killed the head as I would still expect something to print. Even just a few nozzles.

Is it possible that I messed up one of the ribbon cable connections or ribbon cable itself? I marked the cables to make sure I put them back on correctly.

Is there a diagnostic to test the head interconnection? I thought I saw a test in the service manual but now I cant find it.

Any help and/or advice is always appreciated.

Meanwhile, I'll go back and swear some more.
 
E

Electric Ave

New Member
yes, I turned off the sub power, then the main power, then I pulled the plug.

One thing I was not able to do was step 21 under 3-1 head replacement. Under the user meny, select [Ink Control] > [Head Replace] [Enter]
This choice is not available in my menu choices. Perhaps I am behind on software updates.
 
D

digitalsolutionsok

New Member
more than likely popped the black/cyan head channel protection fuse on mainboard. Even if you unplugged it one slip of the fragile connected ribbon cable or fluid/ink on any resistor on electronc board. Believe me easy to do... The bad news is the fuse on mainboard is a 1.6a surface solder mounted component its not just pop in fuse. Next thing wouldnt trust your ultrasonc that much I have seen heads that it works on but also seen heads it would never work on.... that being said your situation wouldnt fix the board and put that head back in b/c it will just pop it again. New head inspect cable connections and cables need to be clead and connected well one slip and the heads gone.
 
kffernandez

kffernandez

New Member
i bet you didn't rinse your head in isop alcohol and allow it to dry out overnight... i killed my head / fuse this way. a short in any of the head circuitry popped your cyan / black head fuse. that is why both are totally out.

your heads might still be fine depending on whether or not the ultrasonic cleaning improved or destroyed your head.

kelly
 
E

Electric Ave

New Member
argh, I am not equiped to do surface mount repair work.

I did do a rinse in isop alcohol but I didn't allow it to dry overnight.
Is there an easy way to test the head to see it it is shorted out?

I had a thought though. If I put the magenta/yellow ribbon cables on the cyan/black head and the cyan/black head started printing, that would point to the fuse being blown. On the other hand, if there is still a short, it would blow the magenta/yellow fuses on the main board too.

What options are available for repairing the main board . . or is it a replace only situation?
 
E

Electric Ave

New Member
As Kelly predicted, I did indeed blow fuse F3 on the main board. Hopefully the transistor amplifiers were not effected, although I've seen some discussions where the power transistors were taken out.

For what it's worth, I believe the fuses are KOA Speer Electronics P/N CCF1N1TTE (N for normal response time). The closest I could find in stock is Littelfuse 045101.6MRL, although this part is considered to have a fast response time. I haven't dug into the spec sheets yet to see what normal vs fast equates to. DigiKey has this item in stock @ $1.15 in single quantities or $1.04 in quantities > 10. DigiKey PN is F2580CT-ND.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. There may still be life in my old head yet :)
 
DRamm76

DRamm76

New Member
Electric Ave said:
As Kelly predicted, I did indeed blow fuse F3 on the main board. Hopefully the transistor amplifiers were not effected, although I've seen some discussions where the power transistors were taken out.

For what it's worth, I believe the fuses are KOA Speer Electronics P/N CCF1N1TTE (N for normal response time). The closest I could find in stock is Littelfuse 045101.6MRL, although this part is considered to have a fast response time. I haven't dug into the spec sheets yet to see what normal vs fast equates to. DigiKey has this item in stock @ $1.15 in single quantities or $1.04 in quantities > 10. DigiKey PN is F2580CT-ND.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. There may still be life in my old head yet :)
Click to expand...

With all due respect, rather than use any more 3rd party parts or try to do it yourself, why not call a certified Roland Tech to come fix it before this gets any worse than it already is. Everyday you are down you are losing money
 
T

Turbophein

New Member
i had this problem with my new to me sp300v when i bought it. black/cyan head was not working right, then it popped the fuse.i had a tech look at it and said replace the fuse but it might pop again with the possibly bad head.

after seeing the work and price of the fuses i went to autozone and bought 2 small fuse holders and soldered them in myself. not the prettiest thing when you look at the board, but they work and have been for 1.5 years. so as predicted i went through at least 5 fuses trying to figure out the problem, piece of cake to change now, replacing cables, etc. before we just changed the head and all was good since, with the fuses and head anyways!
 
E

Electric Ave

New Member
I'm back up and running

YEAH, back up and running and the black/cyan head is working great!

Apparently before Fuse F3 blew, transistor TR7 (Sanken 2SC4131) shorted out. Fortunately, I found a source on ebay, Dalbani Corp. in Miami, FL, that sells 2SC4131 (5 for $18).

So I replaced TR7 and F3 and this time checked Head HD0 for shorts right up to connector CN10 on the main board.

Everything checked out, I plugged everything in, did a final visual inspection and fired the system up. The first test pattern showed black was back and after a standard cleaning cycle black and cyan were printing just fine. I aligned the heads as best as I could without a loupe (the eyes aren't what they used to be) and that's it.

The VersaWorks test print was the best I'd ever seen off this machine, a wee bit of strobing in the CMYK rectangles but the black text was nice and crisp with no halos.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and support, espcially Robert who supplied the service manual which contained all the schematics.

With all due respect to Dram76, I think my 25 years of R&D in digital printing and my BSEE gives me the tools I need to fix this thing! btw, the diagnostics and design on this beast are for ****.
 
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