My problem is i've always wet-applied frosting (usually 3m 5525) , but when there's text or intricate detail involved, it's a real bitch getting the application tape off. there's a billion youtube videos explaining how to do one-piece panels, but not much about this kind of thing. Any hot tips? i'd sure appreciate it, i've got a big (1500x2200mm) floral nightmare coming up next week and i'm really not looking forward to it.
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Suggestions installing window frosting with intricate designs
- Thread starter burgmurk
- Start date
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
ams
New Member
Use a different transfer tape that is made for that issue. After you squeegee it over a dozen times, let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes to cure. You could use a heat gun to apply low heat over it for a couple minutes to help the process. Never remove the transfer tape within minutes after. But also make sure it's 100% complete, you don't want to reapply when it's dry.
The corners and edges are the most prone to still be wet, not the middle. So focus in those areas.
The corners and edges are the most prone to still be wet, not the middle. So focus in those areas.
We use Avery transfer paper, Frosted vinyl is very easy to apply when it has a layer of transfer paper, the intricacy of the design doesn't matter. You have to use medium strenght paper along with a very good brand of frosting, we use Neschen with air realease. We always apply dry.
bigben
Not a newbie
I use 3M SCPS-53X transfer tape. If there is only a small part that is cut out, I premask just that part. Wet apply, squeegee down, wet the hell of the transfer tape, wait 5 to 10 minutes and the transfer tape practically fall off itself. Even for small parts like 1/4 X 1/4 it work well. If you want it to tac and dry faster, use rapidtac.
I just did 5 parts that was 48in high by 10 foot long. There was only few parts cut out. I've use 24in premask for those parts (only 3) and it worked well.
I just did 5 parts that was 48in high by 10 foot long. There was only few parts cut out. I've use 24in premask for those parts (only 3) and it worked well.
After you have installed it, spay with soapy water or windex. let it sit for a minute or two and it will come off a lot easier. You can only do this with paper premask.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Go back the next day. Tell them not to let anyone touch it.
There's nothing in the rule book which states it all has to be done in one fell swoop. When we used to hand letter doors and windows, we had to keep people from touching the wet paint, so according to where the job was, we made a decision to either trust no one will poke around or just tape some paper over it for overnight protection. Nothing wrong with letting the transfer tape on and going back. If it's out of your way, consider that part of your learning cost of having to include a second trip, next time.
There's nothing in the rule book which states it all has to be done in one fell swoop. When we used to hand letter doors and windows, we had to keep people from touching the wet paint, so according to where the job was, we made a decision to either trust no one will poke around or just tape some paper over it for overnight protection. Nothing wrong with letting the transfer tape on and going back. If it's out of your way, consider that part of your learning cost of having to include a second trip, next time.
When I choose to do a wet application (usually I do dry, but will do wet when the vinyl is large and I am alone) I will finish squeegeeing the vinyl then spray the app tape with the same wet application solution. Then I will rub the solution into the app tape with my hand. After about 3-5 min, the app adhesive will lose it's grip and I can slowly peel away the app tape. It works well for me. Good luck.
eahicks
Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
We do this....but we use the same Rapid Tac we installed with. Soak the transfer tape, rub it all around with your hands. Let it dry for a while then go back and it peels right off.
Thanks guys, i've tried every one of these methods except for the air-release film. I'm looking forward to having a go with that stuff, but this job coming up has to match existing windows either side of it.
I'm also yet to try adding ISO to the mix for faster drying, i'm going to have a play with that, it's winter down here in NZ and i think it could help.
I'm also yet to try adding ISO to the mix for faster drying, i'm going to have a play with that, it's winter down here in NZ and i think it could help.
How long do you wait to remove the premask after you apply the graphic?
Ian Stewart-Koster
Older Greyer Brushie
Come back the next day, wet that app tape, and remove.
24 hours curing time makes all the difference. Problem solved, as long as you can get back.
It works for us and we've done a lot.
A lot also depends on if it's exterior frosting, or interior, where the adhesive gets seen from the back.
Exterior can be dry-applied. Interior, I do wet, and retrun the next day to remove app tape.
24 hours curing time makes all the difference. Problem solved, as long as you can get back.
It works for us and we've done a lot.
A lot also depends on if it's exterior frosting, or interior, where the adhesive gets seen from the back.
Exterior can be dry-applied. Interior, I do wet, and retrun the next day to remove app tape.
As long as i can. sometimes that's an hour, sometimes 48.
I did the job i was talking about last week. gave it about 90 minutes. had to reposition a few "leaves" at the end, but we were in and out in a little over 2 hours (couple of other little bits on the front door etc as well).
We just tried the Neschen air release frosted vinyl on a large window pane job and had some trouble peeling the liner off and having trouble with the transfer tape not sticking. Which application tape do you use?